Ahh , EI trafo. Gets warm , very inefficient ... some lose (waste) 20-30% at idle (or operation). Can't figure why they would seal these up in a box.
The 50VA Polk I showed gets warm and saturates at <2A. 37VDC collapses to under 30V >2A. Most likely costs ... OMG $1.05 !! on Alibaba.
Alibaba 100VA 25-0-25 costs about $10. Soooooo , to save $$ per unit and make "Polk is a joke" they save 9$ per unit. With a 100VA and better caps , this
polk would of been at least "decent". Logitech has a 100VA 32-0-32 and 2 pair Nichicon 4700u caps for their 5.1 10 and 12" systems "decent".
Yup , the small core collapses and saves the driver from burnout. But .... the chipamp see's massive ripple , as does everything else. My new toriod stays above 50V @ 5A+. the 18-0-18V secondary does not budge , so my "evil chips" have nice clean power. Just to think , this toroid was from a 90's KLH amp rated at
80W RMS/ch. At least they were honest. I would rate my upgraded sub at 120W driving that 6 ohm sub. Most likely more.
The 50VA Polk I showed gets warm and saturates at <2A. 37VDC collapses to under 30V >2A. Most likely costs ... OMG $1.05 !! on Alibaba.
Alibaba 100VA 25-0-25 costs about $10. Soooooo , to save $$ per unit and make "Polk is a joke" they save 9$ per unit. With a 100VA and better caps , this
polk would of been at least "decent". Logitech has a 100VA 32-0-32 and 2 pair Nichicon 4700u caps for their 5.1 10 and 12" systems "decent".
Yup , the small core collapses and saves the driver from burnout. But .... the chipamp see's massive ripple , as does everything else. My new toriod stays above 50V @ 5A+. the 18-0-18V secondary does not budge , so my "evil chips" have nice clean power. Just to think , this toroid was from a 90's KLH amp rated at
80W RMS/ch. At least they were honest. I would rate my upgraded sub at 120W driving that 6 ohm sub. Most likely more.
Is everyone okay? Is there a PCB for this scheme?There is no excuse for any of this - just outright greed.
(below) is under 40$ in semi's.
The input stage uses less current than most op-amps - needs no heatsinks.
Use any 100V to-92's and any 150V to-126 devices.
The output stage has been built and lasts 30 years - it is my old HK
integrated amp EF3 (AKA "slewmaster").
Assured >50ppm full power 20 - 150hz @2R load.
R13/C7/D3 "trick" allows for all day clipping (till doomsday).
I was looking at the M&K woofers and some of parts express's better
offerings. Why would you pair a POS dayton plate amp or any of
these OEM outsourced garbage amps with such nice drivers. The only
good thing I have seen today was that BK plate amp.
OS
