Looks like the current cartridge is an Acos GP96-1. Replacement stylus here: Stylus for Acos GP95 GP96
A suitable replacement cartridge is the BSR SC11M: https://snvinyl.co.uk/BSR-SC-11M7-Cartridge-Ceramic-/-Crystal
However, some modification of the BSR's mounting bracket is required, as well as new, round cartridge connecting pins. See Audio1950's description in this link: Where to get replacement cartridge for Hacker Gondolier? - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
A suitable replacement cartridge is the BSR SC11M: https://snvinyl.co.uk/BSR-SC-11M7-Cartridge-Ceramic-/-Crystal
However, some modification of the BSR's mounting bracket is required, as well as new, round cartridge connecting pins. See Audio1950's description in this link: Where to get replacement cartridge for Hacker Gondolier? - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
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I've roughened up the rubber part of the motor idler wheel with some emery paper and cleaned the inside of the platter (as suggested), and I have better drive now. I also shortened the spring a bit that pulls it onto the motor drive spindle, so it's hopefully under a bit more pressure.
Can I presume that if I had the bit of alloy with both points in my hand then it had broken away from the main part (silicone sleeve, plus white and black plastic part) of the stylus? If so I will order up the replacement stylus you kindly sent me a link to, then see how it gets on.
With reference to the tracking force, are you able to show on the picture attached where I'm looking to adjust (once I have the new stylus)? Is it the screw on the top that tightens the spring you can see?
Thanks
Can I presume that if I had the bit of alloy with both points in my hand then it had broken away from the main part (silicone sleeve, plus white and black plastic part) of the stylus? If so I will order up the replacement stylus you kindly sent me a link to, then see how it gets on.
With reference to the tracking force, are you able to show on the picture attached where I'm looking to adjust (once I have the new stylus)? Is it the screw on the top that tightens the spring you can see?
Thanks
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Make sure you've read the stylus replacement instructions: "To remove your old stylus ensure cartridge flag is pointing towards the centre of the turntable and remove the stylus by lifting the base of the cantilever, do NOT attempt to remove the flag (this is part of the cartridge)."
Yes, it sounds like your stylus assembly has come unstuck. However, a stylus replacement is de rigueur when renovating a turntable - who knows the condition of the existing needle tips?
The recommended tracking force range for the GP96 is 3 to 6 grams. I would set it initially in the middle at 4.5 grams. Cheap stylus gauges are readily available for under £10, if you don't already own one.
Yes, it sounds like your stylus assembly has come unstuck. However, a stylus replacement is de rigueur when renovating a turntable - who knows the condition of the existing needle tips?
The recommended tracking force range for the GP96 is 3 to 6 grams. I would set it initially in the middle at 4.5 grams. Cheap stylus gauges are readily available for under £10, if you don't already own one.
You've done something that almost everyone seems to do, to "help" add friction to an old, failing idler drive. - chopping the tension spring.
And sorry, but that's a definitely wrong idea to attempt. - and a temporary "backyard mechanic fix".
The proper way is to do a full clean and relube to the ider mechanism, motor, and replace the idler if it's not pliable, or glazed and hardened due to age.
Same goes for the rubber motor mounts if deteriorated.
These rubber parts are easily available, not expensive, and preserves the original quality of the unit.
I can't find a free download of the Garrard 3000 Service Manual, but you can download one for the similar 2025 for free from this site:
Garrard manuals | Hifi Manuals Free: Service Manuals, Owners Manuals, Schematics online for free download
In there, you will find information on lubrication and troubleshooting that may equally apply to the 3000.
Garrard manuals | Hifi Manuals Free: Service Manuals, Owners Manuals, Schematics online for free download
In there, you will find information on lubrication and troubleshooting that may equally apply to the 3000.
The stylus is actually a GP94-1, so I ordered that one from the site you sent me a link to. It doesn't come with the flip over flag (that's part of the main cartridge), and is pretty simple to fit. I've superglued the old pole with the two needle tips back into the silicone sleeve for the moment, so I can still test it etc. I'm not going to adjust the tracking pressure, as all may be fine once the new stylus is fitted - hopefully.
The spring I shortened was about 3cm (or more) long, and I only removed about 4mm of length, so fingers crossed no harm done.
I hear what is being said about replacing the motor rubbers, and the idler, but the motor rubbers seem pretty good, and I'm now getting good drive from the roughed up idler drive. I don't want to spend too much money on this, as I mainly just want to get it going again. If once I have it all working and it starts to play up during extended testing/playing, then I'll replace the motor rubbers and idler.
Thanks, Rob
The spring I shortened was about 3cm (or more) long, and I only removed about 4mm of length, so fingers crossed no harm done.
I hear what is being said about replacing the motor rubbers, and the idler, but the motor rubbers seem pretty good, and I'm now getting good drive from the roughed up idler drive. I don't want to spend too much money on this, as I mainly just want to get it going again. If once I have it all working and it starts to play up during extended testing/playing, then I'll replace the motor rubbers and idler.
Thanks, Rob
I've got the 1000, 2000, 3000 manual in PDF.
One critical point, that roller that travels in the cycle gear track, needs to rotate freely.
Because over time, the lube freezes it, causing additional friction and stalling during the change cycle.
This is common to changers like this.
I tore down completely the 3000 I used in customizing my RCA Victor console.
I didn't want to ever have to deal with malfunctioning again.
And she runs better than new!
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Hi WiseOldTech,
The large alloy cam gear (the same thing that has the cycleway - I think) was what caused me the most pain, having never worked on one of these before.
It seemed to go round, but very sfifly. In fact the steel pin/stud it should rotate on had welded/corroded itself to the alloy cam, and it was the riveted over bit (that should hold the pin/stud firm) that was spinning. The little bit that fixes to the outside of the alloy cam also had the same issue. It took a fair bit of time to free them up so I could strip/clean/lubricate it all - including the roller that runs in the cam way. The mechanicals seem to be running pretty good now.
The large alloy cam gear (the same thing that has the cycleway - I think) was what caused me the most pain, having never worked on one of these before.
It seemed to go round, but very sfifly. In fact the steel pin/stud it should rotate on had welded/corroded itself to the alloy cam, and it was the riveted over bit (that should hold the pin/stud firm) that was spinning. The little bit that fixes to the outside of the alloy cam also had the same issue. It took a fair bit of time to free them up so I could strip/clean/lubricate it all - including the roller that runs in the cam way. The mechanicals seem to be running pretty good now.
Heating the cycle gear's shaft can soften the dried up lube so that it can be freed.
A good soaking in solvent and a flush with CRC can free up the trip mechanism on it.
Then a light smear of Super Lube in the cam track, some on the spindle hole, and a drop of oil on the roller after freeing it.
No lube at all on the trip link assembly - it stays "dry"!
Underneath, the "friction link" needs cleaning, and a very light smear of Super Lube inside the slot.
On mine, I tore the whole damn changer apart, something I warn others not to attempt, unless you're like me, a perfectionist that has done thousands of changers over the decades.
It's WORK!
No one claimed they were identical - just similar in regard to the lubrication regime.
I knew about the Vinyl Engine availability. I registered with them a week or so ago and downloaded a couple of manuals, but now they no longer recognise me! Consequently, I was unable to access the 3000 Service Manual. Something to do with me having an incompatible email provider they say!
Will need to check this out, as the site is such a valuable resource.
For those who haven't stumbled across it yet, this is a great thread in regard to the identification of Garrard record decks:
Garrard record player deck identification. - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
Garrard record player deck identification. - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum
Galu I had the same problem with hi-fi engine wouldn't accept me until I became less stubborn and stopped my range of blockers of various sorts on their website and let them (think ) they could plant cookies of various sorts on my browser .
I use Linux Manjaro (at the moment ) so they are not able to plant any directly on my PC and even if they could they would be locked tight .
I have no Google of any sort ,nor Facebook etc all I would get is a blank page , many websites have gone Cloud ( Amazon ) for so called protection ,in reality they are just making sure they gather info for gain.
So if you have any blockers you need to stop them for that website ---only.
By the way DIY Audio is the best set up and programmed website I have come across , whoever did the programming deserves a medal that guy has brains !
I use Linux Manjaro (at the moment ) so they are not able to plant any directly on my PC and even if they could they would be locked tight .
I have no Google of any sort ,nor Facebook etc all I would get is a blank page , many websites have gone Cloud ( Amazon ) for so called protection ,in reality they are just making sure they gather info for gain.
So if you have any blockers you need to stop them for that website ---only.
By the way DIY Audio is the best set up and programmed website I have come across , whoever did the programming deserves a medal that guy has brains !
WiseOldTech, Or anyone else who can help.
I'd like to take your advice and replace the rubber motor mounts (they look fairly good), and the large idler drive wheel (its not getting good drive, even after roughening it up etc), but am not sure where is a good place to get them, and not get stung for the privilege.
Thanks, Rob
I'd like to take your advice and replace the rubber motor mounts (they look fairly good), and the large idler drive wheel (its not getting good drive, even after roughening it up etc), but am not sure where is a good place to get them, and not get stung for the privilege.
Thanks, Rob
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