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Old 7th December 2019, 06:02 PM   #31
minek123 is offline minek123  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvee View Post
The results were strictly identical, and when I attempted to make the 3A measurement, the wire blew, exactly like the previous one.
So basically the heat generated within the wire, has been
transferred to the resistor (via metal/soldering), right?
I guess what counts here is the mass of the resistor.
I'm assuming the PCB pads you were using were substantial in size/area?


Since it's quick, I'm gonna try the same thing with cement; it should behave better than silicone. And I'm going to use huge pads, a few of cm2.
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Old 7th December 2019, 09:33 PM   #32
Elvee is offline Elvee  Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minek123 View Post
So basically the heat generated within the wire, has been
transferred to the resistor (via metal/soldering), right?
No, apparently it remained confined to the FR4 epoxy
Quote:
I guess what counts here is the mass of the resistor.
The thermal mass of the resistor (strictly speaking, its thermal capacity) is negligible.
What counts is its thermal resistance, and also the thermal capacity of its surroundings (the ceramic core in the case of the CR25)
Quote:
I'm assuming the PCB pads you were using were substantial in size/area?
Yes they were: 3.2mm dia. but that's small compared to the length of the wire (~20mm)


Quote:
Since it's quick, I'm gonna try the same thing with cement; it should behave better than silicone. And I'm going to use huge pads, a few of cm2.
Unless the volume thermal conductivity of the cement is hugely better than silicone, the result shouldn't change significantly: the problem is the substrate.
It can be improved by using copper under the wire, but I am not sure it is a good idea for a number of reasons
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Old 12th December 2019, 05:27 PM   #33
minek123 is offline minek123  United States
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Originally Posted by Elvee View Post
Probably, let me think about it there is no need to rush.
I'm currently planning/ordering mechanical parts for the chassis/heatsinking.
If there are no further changes to the Circlo itself, I could start on assembling boards.

Now that rails will be 75V-80V, I need to find out what's the beast way to
get 12V for 2 cooling fans/temp_controller (at least 200mA).

Lm2596hv only allows max 60V input (perhaps there is a way to cascode it?).
Any ideas? If there is no easy/cool way to get 75V==>12V, I guess I'll need
to use small external psu for fans...
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Old 12th December 2019, 09:48 PM   #34
Elvee is offline Elvee  Belgium
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I am in the process of simulating a 100V rails, 600W/8 ohm version

Quote:
Originally Posted by minek123 View Post
If there are no further changes to the Circlo itself, I could start on assembling boards.
I am making some changes, to accommodate the higher currents/voltages.
For a lower power (<~300W), you might get away with just device changes, but some structural mods would nevertheless be beneficial

Quote:
Now that rails will be 75V-80V, I need to find out what's the beast way to
get 12V for 2 cooling fans/temp_controller (at least 200mA).

Lm2596hv only allows max 60V input (perhaps there is a way to cascode it?).
Any ideas? If there is no easy/cool way to get 75V==>12V, I guess I'll need
to use small external psu for fans...
Either use dedicated supplies, or a converter module suited to that kind of voltage.
Since your total supply is going to be 150V DC, you can perfectly use a universal input wall-wart or converter operating from 100 to 264VAC (it will work equally well with DC)
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Old 13th December 2019, 03:44 PM   #35
minek123 is offline minek123  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvee View Post
I am making some changes, to accommodate the higher currents/voltages.
For a lower power (<~300W), you might get away with just device changes, but some structural mods would nevertheless be beneficial
I'll wait then.
But if I can get away with re-using my original PCBs (already made), I would prefer that.
On the other hand is always fun to design new PCB.. To me, that's always most satisfying part of the project..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvee View Post
Since your total supply is going to be 150V DC, you can perfectly use a universal input wall-wart or converter operating from 100 to 264VAC (it will work equally well with DC)
Ha! That's good thing. Will try it. Even my smaller circlophone should work with wall-wart then (100V DC).
Lots of fake Lm2596hv out there. Most of them are not really 'HV'.
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