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Tricky mounting situation
Tricky mounting situation
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Old 12th July 2019, 02:48 AM   #1
maLx is offline maLx  United States
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Default Tricky mounting situation

Hi, All.

So I'm in a bit of a tricky mounting situation. I need to mount a small amplifier to the top of my speaker cabinet, and wires need to run through the cabinet via a hole I drilled in the top. That I have covered, but I want to know how would you best mount the circuit board to the top of the speaker?

Maybe an ABS sheet with the standoffs already installed and then screw the ABS sheet to the top of the speaker?

Or I was thinking, mounting the circuit upside down and then flipping it. Issue with that is slack of the wire.

Let me know if anyone has any ideas for me.
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Old 12th July 2019, 11:56 AM   #2
indianajo is offline indianajo  United States
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Location: Jeffersonville, Indiana USA
Speakers are usually sealed or have a single port to tune the bass cutoff.
Amplifiers produce heat that must be exchanged to the room air.
It would seem the two devices are incompatible.
Yes, vendors do produce powered speakers with external heat sinks, or a fan port. The dictates of that cooling device determines where the amp board goes.
Furthermore, my amp picks up RF from police/fire/CB radios, the local AM station, etc etc. The steel box I keep the amp board in, which includes a steel mesh top, helps keep this noise out of my listening experience. There are devices at all wire entries to the box to keep the RF out. Input capacitors, EMI lightning surge arrestors, zobel coil on the output. No metal box, no wall against noise. Also any voltage difference over 25 can be lethal to people that touch it with two hands. Jewelry on the hands makes 1 v at high current a serious burn hazard. Keeping uneducated hands away from the electricity is usually a design requirement.
The box doesn't have to be expensive. Blown up amps are the best source, also blown VFD motor drives, even recipe files if you can drill or grind enough slots or holes for the air to go out. Box tops can be folded up out of metal mesh sold for concrete reinforcement; I've bent a top up on my back steps and cut the corners with weiss snips. That board I mounted on standoffs on a wood board since it wasn't an amp, but a 82 input switching device. The cover was just necessary to keep fingers away from 24 v solenoid drive.
I suppose you could glue the bottom of the amp box to the speaker top, or hold the bottom down to the top with wood screws, but IMHO speakers are heavy enough to carry & set up on the poles without the amp. I leave my amp down on the floor behind the record tower to kill the fan noise from my part of the room. I suppose you're playing music loud enough at constant volume to not hear the fan?
I have the driver board inside the box screwed to metal angles, and the metal angle screwed to the box. I make the metal angles by sawing pieces off Aluminum angle stock from the home store then drilling holes in them. I have the output devices mounted on heat sinks that screw directly to the box. I have fans outside the box mounted to a metal rail under the amp, blowing through the mesh, with a wall transformer powering them over at the outlet.
These design considerations usually make it easier to do something else besides screwing the amp directly to the speaker top.
Dynakit ST70, ST120, PAS2,Hammond H182(2 ea),H112,A100,10-82TC,Peavey CS800S,1.3K, SP2-XT's, T-300 HF Proj's, Steinway console, Herald RA88a mixer, Wurlitzer 4500, 4300

Last edited by indianajo; 12th July 2019 at 12:23 PM.
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