Harman Kardon PA2400 Signature vs Non-signature

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Hi,
i have a chance to get H&K PA2400 that has supposedly been found, from photos it indeed looks like it's been tucked away in a bunker of sorts for decades. I can buy it for 200 euros shipped.
However, it's not the Signature series. Is there any difference in terms of circuitry/sound?
I read the Signature series has 4 pairs vs non-signature 3 pairs (of main output transistors), but i didn't find any pics confirming that, the service manual i found (doesnt list if signature or not) lists 4 pairs of 1302/3281 per channel.
Is that a good amp worth that price (or worth that price for resell)?
 
I have a non-signature series PA-2400 with 4 output pairs. I somewhat doubt there really is an actual difference.
I consider PA-2400 an excellent amplifier, one of the best commercially made class AB amplifiers I have experience with. However; the chassis is a complete pain to deal with if it needs service.
 
I have a non-signature series PA-2400 with 4 output pairs. I somewhat doubt there really is an actual difference.
I consider PA-2400 an excellent amplifier, one of the best commercially made class AB amplifiers I have experience with. However; the chassis is a complete pain to deal with if it needs service.
Thank you for the comment! Guess i'll buy it then.
Yeah, if the cover is pain in the bottom then bad, but i gotta get over it. The TK caps HK used in non audio circuits like to ooze, so they gotta go out.
Does yours still have the original ELNA filter caps? It's hard to source these bigass caps and they are quite expensive too.
 
The international model uses a different power transformer. The US models have extra higher voltage taps and switches to select low or high rail voltages. The higher rail voltage is the only reason the US models have higher power output.
For reliability reasons on US models I only recommend using the 4ohm (140W) setting anyway. There is significantly more heat generated in 8ohm (200W) mode, and no noticeable difference in sound quality.

Mine still has all it's original caps. In my opinion it isn't old enough yet to absolutely require capacitor replacement.
 
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The international model uses a different power transformer. The US models have extra higher voltage taps and switches to select low or high rail voltages. The higher rail voltage is the only reason the US models have higher power output.
For reliability reasons on US models I only recommend using the 4ohm (140W) setting anyway. There is significantly more heat generated in 8ohm (200W) mode, and no noticeable difference in sound quality.

Mine still has all it's original caps. In my opinion it isn't old enough yet to absolutely require capacitor replacement.
You're right! The transformer is different. I haven't seen any pictures of the european model, how did i manage to overlook that in the service manual:confused::D. It would be probably possible to run 230V primary on 240V, but that would bring only marginal power increase anyway and maybe more problems. I don't know about the resistors though, they should have direct effect on the power as they're the gain-setting ones in feedback path. Probably best to not mess with it. I just hope it won't oscillate because as per the service bulletin, the later modification recommends 470p input cap to cut off at 250KHz to stop it from oscillating.
 
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