I am building an 2x10w class a amplifier and i was wondering if someone has ideas for improving my circut.
My plan was to use an Philips MKT368 1.5uF 100v input cap and Motorola 2N3055 as output transistors, but mabye someone has better alternatives. Here is my circut: (my first drawing on digikeys scheme-it)
In PDF version:
My plan was to use an Philips MKT368 1.5uF 100v input cap and Motorola 2N3055 as output transistors, but mabye someone has better alternatives. Here is my circut: (my first drawing on digikeys scheme-it)
In PDF version:
Polyester (MKT) caps are not favoured for use directly in the signal path. Nowadays, various polypropylene film (MKP, MKPS, FKP etc) types are used, as supplied even in cheap JLH69 kits. The difference in distortion level is only measurable with precision instruments but many audiophiles claim that they clearly hear the difference(s). BTW, 1uF is quite sufficient and increasing that to 1.5 won't make any discernible difference.
bought som of these (1-1.8uf)
1pcs MKP AudioPhiler capacitor for tube amps 1uF - 12uF 400V 3C | eBay
The price yells fake but they could be desent quality anyway
1pcs MKP AudioPhiler capacitor for tube amps 1uF - 12uF 400V 3C | eBay
The price yells fake but they could be desent quality anyway
Hi there. The JLH is a forgiving design but there are lots of ways to refine it. The 2N3055 is a bit of a dinosaur and for 10W output you can use a more nimble device like MJE15028. The output capacitor C6 will have a relatively significant effect on the sound so you might want to choose a good part here. There are more things but these two are good places to start.
Use a recognised brand audio grade cap from a bona fide distributor. This is an important component and if you compromise the quality here, you have to live with it. In other words, don't limit your choices to only those you find at bargain prices on Ebay etc. However, a larger value up to 4700uF could be used to some advantage with bass frequencies.
In that selection and without having tested any of them, I'd also be inclined towards the Philips just because the brand is good. It depends what your budget is...at the high end for 100Kr or so you should be able to get an Audio Note for example, which ought to be pretty good. I use Mundorf M-lytic AG and they are slightly cheaper.
There is nothing better than listening to them yourself in your own circuit. Start with something affordable and you can play with it later.
A JLH needs a fancy input capacitor about as much as a 1969 Mercedes 200D needs a spoiler and racing tires. [1] It has to sustain about 10 V in operation in this single supply design, any good-quality (e.g. Panasonic FC) 10µ/50V would be just fine (assuming you dont install it backwards - (+) to circuit, (-) to input).
The output cap should sustain at least 25 V, better 35 V, and since there are more speakers that would fairly be rated at 6 or 4 ohms than you might think, I'd up the capacitance to 3300µ or even 4700µ. Should be decently low ESR (not to the point where it gets overly leaky though - a 0.01 CV rating would be good), a good quality industrial part by the likes of Panasonic, Nichicon, Nippon Chemicon, (Vishay) BCComponents or Rubycon. Polarity as indicated on schematic.
It's always a good idea to make sure you are buying from a reputable vendor, especially if you don't feel like ordering from one of the big distributors (Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, ...). eBay offers a good selection of fake parts from shady dealers.
[1] (v_max = 125 km/h)
The output cap should sustain at least 25 V, better 35 V, and since there are more speakers that would fairly be rated at 6 or 4 ohms than you might think, I'd up the capacitance to 3300µ or even 4700µ. Should be decently low ESR (not to the point where it gets overly leaky though - a 0.01 CV rating would be good), a good quality industrial part by the likes of Panasonic, Nichicon, Nippon Chemicon, (Vishay) BCComponents or Rubycon. Polarity as indicated on schematic.
It's always a good idea to make sure you are buying from a reputable vendor, especially if you don't feel like ordering from one of the big distributors (Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, ...). eBay offers a good selection of fake parts from shady dealers.
[1] (v_max = 125 km/h)
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