Hello everyone,
i'm looking at a DIY power amp in kit (PCB, parts, etc) that would be connected to a HC amplifier ONKYO RZ820 which would have Klipsch front & surround speakers plugged in, and this power amp would be in charge of the Klipsch RF7 speakers with a budget not exceeding 400€.
I do not have enough experience in electronic to build mine but i've had already some successful DIY activity with the Objective2 headphone amplifier.
So can anyone recommend me some DIY kit that i could buy which would be a good mariage with these sensitive speakers? also which Class A/AB/D or even tube amp would be the best for this?
The cherry on the cake would be that this power amp is powered on/off via the HomeCinema amplifier trigger.
Finally, i've never done CNC soldering, if this can be avoided , this may be good for a first try.
thanks!
i'm looking at a DIY power amp in kit (PCB, parts, etc) that would be connected to a HC amplifier ONKYO RZ820 which would have Klipsch front & surround speakers plugged in, and this power amp would be in charge of the Klipsch RF7 speakers with a budget not exceeding 400€.
I do not have enough experience in electronic to build mine but i've had already some successful DIY activity with the Objective2 headphone amplifier.
So can anyone recommend me some DIY kit that i could buy which would be a good mariage with these sensitive speakers? also which Class A/AB/D or even tube amp would be the best for this?
The cherry on the cake would be that this power amp is powered on/off via the HomeCinema amplifier trigger.
Finally, i've never done CNC soldering, if this can be avoided , this may be good for a first try.
thanks!
Location helps. We have posters in four ? continents.
Atikita sells a IC amp kit in USA, about 35 W/ch stereo into 8 ohms. If 4 ohms speaker that is a little light.
Have a look over on chip amps for reviews of other e-bay kit boards which may or may not be suitable. TDA729x IC tends to blow up if you don't get the power up reset power down circuitry just right, so watch that. Not in the datasheet apparently. LM3886 of the atikita or chipamps.com is more forgiving.
diyaudiostore sells the honeybadger kit, about 200 w/ch but it is a bit large and you have to get the heat sink from heatsinkusa or somebody more expensive. See the button on the banner across the top. Heat sinks from major parts distributors are in general very expensive.
Those kits should be in your budget if you package in an old receiver or porta-file cabinet or something. If you package in a custom chassis with integrated heat sinks that blows the budget. I don't recommend wood or plastic enclosure, your RF emitting emergency services and nearby appliances emissions will drive you crazy.
You'll need a drill motor, drill set, vise, and probably a carbide hack saw (blade) for square holes to put the connectors fuse power switch etc in the chassis. A dirty shop area you can shed metal dust into.
I like the Apex AX6 which is compact and about 50W average 130 W peak, but you have to build your own PCB's from the mask in the article. The Bigun TGM8 is similar.
If building a direct connect transsistor amp like Honeybadger, don't forget the DC protection circuit which protects expensive speakers from bad solder joints. If building an atikita, AX6 or TGM8 with a speaker cap, DC on speaker cannot happen.
I built an AX6 on garolite/micarta/textolite/NemaCE bare board with wires, but you have to have a lot of patience to solder 60 wires point to point. Takes a drill that will handle #49 bit, I use a hand crank Yankee.
Really at your level of experience, you best bet is to buy a working class AB amp board with heat sink from somebody like farnell, ST or velleman, and package it yourself with power supply, fuse/switches, RF protection etc. More fun in the beginning, then with those skills down you can go for building the board yourself. Buying it integrated gets you past the heatsink cost barrier.
Have fun shopping and or building.
Atikita sells a IC amp kit in USA, about 35 W/ch stereo into 8 ohms. If 4 ohms speaker that is a little light.
Have a look over on chip amps for reviews of other e-bay kit boards which may or may not be suitable. TDA729x IC tends to blow up if you don't get the power up reset power down circuitry just right, so watch that. Not in the datasheet apparently. LM3886 of the atikita or chipamps.com is more forgiving.
diyaudiostore sells the honeybadger kit, about 200 w/ch but it is a bit large and you have to get the heat sink from heatsinkusa or somebody more expensive. See the button on the banner across the top. Heat sinks from major parts distributors are in general very expensive.
Those kits should be in your budget if you package in an old receiver or porta-file cabinet or something. If you package in a custom chassis with integrated heat sinks that blows the budget. I don't recommend wood or plastic enclosure, your RF emitting emergency services and nearby appliances emissions will drive you crazy.
You'll need a drill motor, drill set, vise, and probably a carbide hack saw (blade) for square holes to put the connectors fuse power switch etc in the chassis. A dirty shop area you can shed metal dust into.
I like the Apex AX6 which is compact and about 50W average 130 W peak, but you have to build your own PCB's from the mask in the article. The Bigun TGM8 is similar.
If building a direct connect transsistor amp like Honeybadger, don't forget the DC protection circuit which protects expensive speakers from bad solder joints. If building an atikita, AX6 or TGM8 with a speaker cap, DC on speaker cannot happen.
I built an AX6 on garolite/micarta/textolite/NemaCE bare board with wires, but you have to have a lot of patience to solder 60 wires point to point. Takes a drill that will handle #49 bit, I use a hand crank Yankee.
Really at your level of experience, you best bet is to buy a working class AB amp board with heat sink from somebody like farnell, ST or velleman, and package it yourself with power supply, fuse/switches, RF protection etc. More fun in the beginning, then with those skills down you can go for building the board yourself. Buying it integrated gets you past the heatsink cost barrier.
Have fun shopping and or building.
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Hi jayce996,
indianajo's suggestions are good ones. I would add another great performer in the Symasym series of amplifiers that were developed in these forums by many members. Most early models are 50 watt ratings and require modest heat sinks. although you can build some up to 150 watts or more. I have built a few versions as utility amplifiers but they perform far better than I expected. Like indianajo suggested, make sure you use some form of speaker protector.
There are also other amplifiers designed and built by members that you might like too. That will take too long for you to review all the designs, but the few mentioned already are all excellent choices. You may want to go with something like the Honeybadger as the boards are available, as well as the case and heat sink combination. That will create a neat, integrated look. Something you can stick in your living room without any apologies.
Good luck!
-Chris
indianajo's suggestions are good ones. I would add another great performer in the Symasym series of amplifiers that were developed in these forums by many members. Most early models are 50 watt ratings and require modest heat sinks. although you can build some up to 150 watts or more. I have built a few versions as utility amplifiers but they perform far better than I expected. Like indianajo suggested, make sure you use some form of speaker protector.
There are also other amplifiers designed and built by members that you might like too. That will take too long for you to review all the designs, but the few mentioned already are all excellent choices. You may want to go with something like the Honeybadger as the boards are available, as well as the case and heat sink combination. That will create a neat, integrated look. Something you can stick in your living room without any apologies.
Good luck!
-Chris
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