They need power to work! Where is your power source?
Googling IPI110N20N3 produces data on a 80Amp N channel FET.
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infine...n.pdf?fileId=db3a3043243b5f170124968e7d1f18e7
Googling IPI110N20N3 produces data on a 80Amp N channel FET.
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infine...n.pdf?fileId=db3a3043243b5f170124968e7d1f18e7
The TLP591 is a special optocoupled MOSFET driver, which provide the necessary power. Google for it!
Sajti
The TLP591B driver is an optoisolator that develops around 7V on it's own. I've been building these for a year now. They work great.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/408/TLP591B_datasheet_en_20140901-739125.pdf
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ASSR-V622-302E has faster switching time than TLP591, but these are SMD only, is that right?
drgnanam,
For the opto-voltaic, the vom1271 is a much better unit - cheaper, readily available, and contains a fast turn off circuit (not just a resistor).
See also my post at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...rid-amp-inspired-hugh-dean-3.html#post4767263
Regards,
Paul Bysouth
For the opto-voltaic, the vom1271 is a much better unit - cheaper, readily available, and contains a fast turn off circuit (not just a resistor).
See also my post at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...rid-amp-inspired-hugh-dean-3.html#post4767263
Regards,
Paul Bysouth
TLP591B has switch-off time 3ms
vom1271 has 24us (micro), so it's way faster, and costs $1 less than TLP,
so I guess I'll give it a try in my next board.
ASSR-V622-302E has 30us switch-off time, and it's dual, so it seems like
a best fit, if price is right.
The circuit with upc1237 doesn't need any changes to use vom1271.
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If you use amp rail (+) to power optocouplers - you need current 20mA,
around 4V-5V across 2 optocouplers. If your rails are low voltage, it's OK to lower this with a zener, or zener + transistor. For higher rails - in my case 75V - you need to drop 70V. That's a lot of volts, and a lot of heat.
I used XL7015 DC-DC buck converter for this task.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXRE62K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Alternatively, for high rails, you can also use separate, little switching power supply (say 12V) - you can by them cheaply, and put inside amp case.
This buck converter (XL7015) is the only one I know, that allows
up to 80V input voltage, and I bought last 3 of them from Amazon..
If you find more available online, let me know
If you have lower rails, say up to 50V, 3W-4W resistor may work ok, but
it will definitely run very hot. That's why I switched to buck converters
or separated switching supplies 12V. Usually you need them anyway in your amp to power preamps, lights, buffers, slow start, etc....
Hi minek123,
Decided to power with 12 DC, can I lose the 4148 diode
Added 100nf snubberand 12v owner to protect MOSFET,but I don't understand idea of catch diode which is connected to amps rails and to speaker output ,if you know can u explain me ,if I do it do I have to implement in both channels.
Some members ex(thimos/stillforgiven)in 100 watt ultimate amplifier thread used apex design reported slight hum and no reason or solution given by anybody,
Is any hum or distortion contributed by this to output ,what is your experience
I am avoiding relay in thinking that is faster,safer and better,can u advice
Decided to power with 12 DC, can I lose the 4148 diode
Added 100nf snubberand 12v owner to protect MOSFET,but I don't understand idea of catch diode which is connected to amps rails and to speaker output ,if you know can u explain me ,if I do it do I have to implement in both channels.
Some members ex(thimos/stillforgiven)in 100 watt ultimate amplifier thread used apex design reported slight hum and no reason or solution given by anybody,
Is any hum or distortion contributed by this to output ,what is your experience
I am avoiding relay in thinking that is faster,safer and better,can u advice