Yamaha RX-V2600 does not power up

I have the same problem and i change the c4 cap which is 223K but the 15000uf capacitor on the main power supply are both with the same problem.
Changed to 105º degrees.
Afther this the dsp function doesn´t work anymore.
Only work in pure direct mode.
Auto setup say to check the speaker cables witch is working i pure direct mode.

Any help will be appreciated.

Oliveiraa
 
Hi Guys I had the same problem with it not starting up unless I unplugged it from the wall for a few minutes.

I took out C4 and it measured 7.5nF and it was a brown cap with 223K (22 nF) marked on it. I replaced it with a 47nF 630V (473K) cap as per what the service manual (downloaded from the link supplied from page 1) suggests for replacement.

It's working great now. Thanks ever so much for saving me a couple of grand !!!
 
Another RX-V2600 Fixed

Changed the C4 capacitor on the standby power board as described in this thread & hey presto power up problem fixed.

Many thanks to those who donate freely share their expert knowledge in forums such as this to help us Google amateurs in search of technical fixes in areas outside our direct area of expertise.

Saved my RX-V2600 for 75c - not including the solder of course.

How good is that :)

Cheers

Netless
 
Yet another RX-V2600 start up issue fixed

Many thanks to the contributors who provide the information about the start-up problem caused by the failure of C4. I had the same issue a week ago as detailed in this thread, got another 22nF X2 capacitor to replace the original and now my RX-V2600 is back working! Great save .. many thanks again!
 
Yamaha RX V663 repair

Hi all, I know this is an old thread, but it helped me repairing my RX V663.

Mine switch on, but of after one second it would switch off again.

Pressing and holding 'straight' and 'audio select' followed by pressing Power On worked as some kind of override, so it would show me an 'PS2 PRT' error.
Using 'INFO' and 'TONE' combined brought me in an 'Advanced Setup', where test no. 8 would show a PS1 of 145 (OK, it's within the 110-255 limit),
but the PS2 value was L077, so I assume Low with a value of 77.
The limits for this test are 88-140, as shown on page 47 of the service manual.

It turned out to be a 7812 positive regulator on the MAIN-2 board, I could check the voltages on connector CB303 of that little board, it's accessible from the top of the Amp, it was only 1,56V
This board is a 25 cm long and 3cm wide board, attached to the main cooling body in the center of the Amp.

With some fiddling I replaced IC104 (7812 regulator) with a 1.5Amp version that had a metal cooling tab as well.
I did put insulation between it to be sure, since the original had a plastic housing, so I did not want to create an unwanted ground loop of some sort.

After the replacement the 12V came back as normal.

After that I had to perform a full reset by going to step 23 of the Advanced Setup menu.
Turn the knob to select 23, then press one of the 4 audio field select buttons, it will show Preset RSRV.

Now power of the Amp, all done.

Un saludo,

Leo
 
I registered just to say a big "thank you" to this forum and the member who posted about replacing the C4 capacitor in the standby power board of the Yamaha RX-V 2600. That was exactly my problem (unit wouldn't turn on), and to my delight and surprise after I soldered in the new capacitor, and hesitatingly pushed the power-on button, it fired up with no problems!

Best of all, when I was discussing all this with the guy in the electronics shop (Jaycar) where I sourced the capacitor, he said he was having the same problem with his Yamaha amp and was so grateful to hear about the possible solution, that he let me have the cap for nothing! Again, many thanks from a grateful Yamaha owner. :)
 
To find out what is causing the specific problem you have to go into diagnostic mode. Usually you have to press "power" together with "A/B/C/D/E" And tuning right button. The first thing that is displayed is the last failure code. From this you can understand what the issue is. PS1 or PS2 means that one of the voltages from the stabilizers is not Ok. Mine had this code - required to replace 2 voltage stabilizers which failed due to bad contact with heatsink (broke the stabilizer after about 8 years). The part was cheap but took some effort. Another unit I had had bad output amp (shorted transistors) this comes up as PRD or DC - which means there is DC voltage on amplifier output. You need to look in the service manual for your receiver what the code is. Good luck.
 
What the heck is a/b/c/d/e???

To find out what is causing the specific problem you have to go into diagnostic mode. Usually you have to press "power" together with "A/B/C/D/E" And tuning right button. The first thing that is displayed is the last failure code. From this you can understand what the issue is. PS1 or PS2 means that one of the voltages from the stabilizers is not Ok. Mine had this code - required to replace 2 voltage stabilizers which failed due to bad contact with heatsink (broke the stabilizer after about 8 years). The part was cheap but took some effort. Another unit I had had bad output amp (shorted transistors) this comes up as PRD or DC - which means there is DC voltage on amplifier output. You need to look in the service manual for your receiver what the code is. Good luck.
What the heck is a/b/c/d/e???
 

PRR

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Dear all,


Sorry to dig out this old thread...


C4 was already changed but the Amp don´t power up. It´s a standard Wima MKP 22nF 630V - Yes I will change this to a X rated capacitor later. Just a short "Click" by the Relais. I get the Error:
PS PRT 128 : T
Where I can find the error code list?


Holding down A/B/C/DE + right Tuning for longer than 2 seconds. the AMP starts up. Clicking noise of Relais and the Display show:
1. DA60Y-YSS930
MARGIN
Red "sleep" is blinking


Any suggestions about this error message?


Thanks a lot for any hint.


best regards
Karsten
 
PS PRT 128 indicates unexpected voltage detected in PS, 128% of expected
voltage detected. Need to do basic health check of power supply voltages,
more likely a failed voltage (+/-5, +/-12V,,,) regulator going short?
Need to also check transformer secondary, check any voltage selector is
correctly set to mains voltage, again, more likely to be voltage regulator.
 
Dear mbz,


Thanks for the hint.
So I will check all voltages of the regulators in PS and secondary Transformer voltages. This can be hopfully done by running in the mode I reach after presseing the buttons longer than 2 seconds without to crack parts impackted by 128% more voltage.



Where to find the information how to inperpret the error messages?


Thanks a lot!


Best regards
Karsten
 
Yeah, it might be a bit difficult to capture the regulator voltages.

The service manual is available on hifiengine, need to register, it's
safe, widely used, no spam. Extract below, PS PRT: 128 appears to
indicate under voltage (approx half) not over voltage as I earlier
posted, appears my memory is failing... Focus should be on the
regulators and associated caps on those (+/-5V, 12V,,,) rails.


ArQrw8WfC4bmAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC
 
Dear mbz,


Thank you so much for your hints. Undervoltage sounds quite better and yes low battery state for the static RAM in my Brain is often detected :)


In the next few days I will look for the defective regulator(s). For the heavy block you almost need a crane above the desk :D



Best regards
Karsten
 
Thanks to mbz who encouraged me to repair this heavy block.
After various measurements of the voltages of the regulators I found a break on the MAIN PCB. R219 and R221 and the lead to PRV1 were broken. See page 106 of the Service-manual for details. I think the speaker connections got a hard blow which led to the break of the PCB.


Thanks a lot and have fun.
Regards
Karsten
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone. I acquired a Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver which does not power on. I cannot enter the diagnostics mode and there is no relay clicking - the unit appears to be completely dead. The fuse is not blown and the unit is receiving power.

Does anyone have any suggestions? It does not seem that replacing the 22nF capacitor (C4) would help in my case.