diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread

Hi, I'm new here. I have purchased the parts and boards for this amp. I was wondering if I would have a problem remote mounting the power transistors. In my chassis the heat sinks are in the middle and I don't think I can fit the boards on the heat sinks. I was thinking 18 Gage and heat shrink the Leeds on the transistors.
 
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Matching transistors from my mate Chris and his HB build. View attachment 765706 20190630_123943.jpg
 
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Hi Chris. Just using my transistor matcher. Not sure why the other image did not upload.
The meter on the left is measuring the VE (voltage at the emitter) the other meter is measuring the IE current through the emitter. Just need to times the meter reading by 10 as im using a 10ohm sense resistor. So 10mv corresponds to 1mA. 20190630_123948.jpg
 
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Hi Chris. Just using my transistor matcher. Not sure why the other image did not upload.
The meter on the left is measuring the VE (voltage at the emitter) the other meter is measuring the IE current through the emitter. Just need to times the meter reading by 10 as im using a 10ohm sense resistor. So 10mv corresponds to 1mA. View attachment 765877
Nice work you're a legend! Thx
 
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Hi Stuart,
Although your matching device looks very complicated (there is a lot going on there), it doesn't appear to run a pair at the exact same temperature. So it would be a good pre-sort for the final match jig that would be based on a long tailed pair with those transistors mounted together (touching) and isolated from outside air and air currents.

Can you share any additional information on your matching jig?

-Chris
 
I thought the concern was to ensure you did not connect the top and bottom of the case with a steel bolt travelling through the center of the donut.

that is the concirn. but pottet or not, it's all the same. it's got nothing to do With the transformer. it's all about the Connection between the topend and the bottomend of the bolt going thrue the transformer.
 
I thought as long as one end is grounded it's fine but you do not want to create a loop where both go back to the chassis. Ive heard it has to have one end grounded as it could act like a secondary and if not then you could cop a belt if you touch it. But ideally it's better to have a nylon bolt. I'm no expert though. I've heard it's better for interference noise to run with a nylon.