For those who would like some please PM me the quantity, your full name, full address and phone number and I can get back to you with a price.
Please just don't expect a reply for at least a week as I am working on the release of the wolverine projects pcb's at the moment
Hello everyone !
First time making a full discrete DIY amp, I do have formal electronics training though..
I am buying the components to make this amp. I am aiming at 250W into 4 ohm, I opted for 400VA 42-0-42 transformers and 4x 12,000uF 63V for both channel. Now I think that's a bit tight for the voltage rating of the reservoir capacitors, especially as I am most-of-all a bass music enthusiast. Should I make a change to this power setup knowing it will be mostly to play demanding material with near constant 30hz's?
Security-wise what is absolutely necessary? I will use a soft-start per channel for sure, I was wondering which other I should absolutely not skip?
Also, for the input/output of the amp, what is the usual setup in term of connectors for dual mono and stereo? It's euroblock with 16 gauge wire from the PCB and then you attach/solder it to the RCA/XLR/Jack audio connector?
Thanks alot!
First time making a full discrete DIY amp, I do have formal electronics training though..
I am buying the components to make this amp. I am aiming at 250W into 4 ohm, I opted for 400VA 42-0-42 transformers and 4x 12,000uF 63V for both channel. Now I think that's a bit tight for the voltage rating of the reservoir capacitors, especially as I am most-of-all a bass music enthusiast. Should I make a change to this power setup knowing it will be mostly to play demanding material with near constant 30hz's?
Security-wise what is absolutely necessary? I will use a soft-start per channel for sure, I was wondering which other I should absolutely not skip?
Also, for the input/output of the amp, what is the usual setup in term of connectors for dual mono and stereo? It's euroblock with 16 gauge wire from the PCB and then you attach/solder it to the RCA/XLR/Jack audio connector?
Thanks alot!
Hi Everyone,
I am currently recording a video blog of my build of the Wolverine amplifier,
It may be helpful for people who are building the mighty Wolverine.
Please see youtube link:
Hopefully some people will follow along as I plan to share some amplifier construction tips along the way.
I am currently recording a video blog of my build of the Wolverine amplifier,
It may be helpful for people who are building the mighty Wolverine.
Please see youtube link:
Hopefully some people will follow along as I plan to share some amplifier construction tips along the way.
Hello,
I am, admittedly, all over the place with projects right now. I am working on an F6, just finished a B1 Preamp and will start an ST-120 tube amp this weekend. I've also bought M2 and Honey badger boards. I know it's unwise to spread oneself too thin but I want to collect parts for everything because I suspect things will get much worse with respect to shortages. I'd like to have parts on hand so I can have something to work on later. Having said that I've recently started looking to collect parts for the Honey Badger and immediately run into trouble. For example KSC1845 seems unavailable anywhere that would be genuine. I also realize that I'm very much a novice at this and may be missing something and have other options. So I guess what I'm asking is if an experienced builder could source all the parts for a honey badger without trading or digging into a personal stockpile. Could you order it all today. Are there smart substitutions that can be made. Im very excited about this hobby/pursuit and there is a lot to learn and such a nice reward for the work. When I run into these walls it further discourages me about the state of our world. I used to feel for, with regard to other hobbies, people in other countries that had to over pay for parts or just couldn't get them. I'd be thankful to live in the US. Now I get to see what its like I suppose.
I am, admittedly, all over the place with projects right now. I am working on an F6, just finished a B1 Preamp and will start an ST-120 tube amp this weekend. I've also bought M2 and Honey badger boards. I know it's unwise to spread oneself too thin but I want to collect parts for everything because I suspect things will get much worse with respect to shortages. I'd like to have parts on hand so I can have something to work on later. Having said that I've recently started looking to collect parts for the Honey Badger and immediately run into trouble. For example KSC1845 seems unavailable anywhere that would be genuine. I also realize that I'm very much a novice at this and may be missing something and have other options. So I guess what I'm asking is if an experienced builder could source all the parts for a honey badger without trading or digging into a personal stockpile. Could you order it all today. Are there smart substitutions that can be made. Im very excited about this hobby/pursuit and there is a lot to learn and such a nice reward for the work. When I run into these walls it further discourages me about the state of our world. I used to feel for, with regard to other hobbies, people in other countries that had to over pay for parts or just couldn't get them. I'd be thankful to live in the US. Now I get to see what its like I suppose.
KSC1845 and KSA992 is a pain in the ''' to find. I had the same problem. After about 3-4 months i came across a stock of them at mouser, and ordered 100 of each at ones. also the driver transistors and VAS and big CCS and VBE transistors can be hard to get. Also Q1 and Q2 (if one wants SS9014). I got a hold of 50pc from France.
And like you, i collected all parts for several amps at the same time. Honey Badger, M2x, SKA150 and a mini Honey Badger.
And like you, i collected all parts for several amps at the same time. Honey Badger, M2x, SKA150 and a mini Honey Badger.
Im taking a chance with KSC1845 and KSA992 from a US based Ebay vendor. Based on the contents of the store I think they'll be real. Safe to assume EVERYTHING from China is fake..correct? I can find MJE 340/350 but not G. All I can do is compare datasheets and they are different. I'm not sure what my impression was, but I'm shocked every day at the breadth of knowledge someone that has been building and repairing for years must have. The multitude of parts and variations is immense.
@iplayforme I have quite a few ksc1845 and ksa992 from DK and Mouser, that I bought to match for a project and have never got around to it. If your eBay purchase doesn't go as expected, send me a PM.
Would be intrested in some aswell! I'm in canada, just getting parts for wolverine sorted out aswell lol
Not a good time for components with the war and the covid crap, ...
Hello everyone. I am continuing with my HB amplifier build after a long break and I am seeking some help with speaker hum. The amp is completely built and I am running the diy audio universal power supply paired with an Antek an-8445. I am building the 2.4 boards and have them dialed in with almost 0v of dc offset and 30mV of bias current after letting them stabilize for ~1 hour. I get 8.25V across R14.
The problem: With a speaker is hooked up to the amplifier, the speaker hums when idling with no input signal. I hooked up my function generator to the input and Oscope to the output and get a beautiful output waveform 0hz to 20khz (no distortion). I hooked up the speaker with the Oscope and function generator and the tones sound great without distortion but I still hear the hum.
What I have tried: When measuring between the amplifier ground (dc ground) and the chassis ground I get about 200mV. Touching the chassis ground with the red end of my DMM probe (black disconnected) I can hear an audible change in the hum frequency. The 120Vac ground is not connected to the chassis. Connecting the 120ac ground to the chassis makes the hum significantly worse. I have checked all the components for shorts to the chassis and did not find any.
Is this most likely a ground loop? Any advise would be great, I feel like I am so close to finishing the amp
. Thanks everyone.
The problem: With a speaker is hooked up to the amplifier, the speaker hums when idling with no input signal. I hooked up my function generator to the input and Oscope to the output and get a beautiful output waveform 0hz to 20khz (no distortion). I hooked up the speaker with the Oscope and function generator and the tones sound great without distortion but I still hear the hum.
What I have tried: When measuring between the amplifier ground (dc ground) and the chassis ground I get about 200mV. Touching the chassis ground with the red end of my DMM probe (black disconnected) I can hear an audible change in the hum frequency. The 120Vac ground is not connected to the chassis. Connecting the 120ac ground to the chassis makes the hum significantly worse. I have checked all the components for shorts to the chassis and did not find any.
Is this most likely a ground loop? Any advise would be great, I feel like I am so close to finishing the amp
. Thanks everyone.Hi again everyone. So I made some progress on the amplifier but I am still running into issues. I purchased a transistor measuring tool and all new transistors. I went through and matched/replaced all the transistors. I then twisted the input and output wires together and now the hum is present but much lower. Whenever I move my hand near the input the hum increases dramatically. If I touch one hand to the grounded heat sink the hum almost completely disappears. While one hand is grounded, if I move the other around the input the hum is barely audible.
So I shut down the amp and installed a two pair, shielded wire to the input. Both ends of the shield are connected to the grounded heatsink. As soon as I turned on the power I blew R54 across the positive rail. Is my body creating capacitance on the inputs and causing the hum? Why would adding a cable with grounded shields cause R54 to burn?
So I shut down the amp and installed a two pair, shielded wire to the input. Both ends of the shield are connected to the grounded heatsink. As soon as I turned on the power I blew R54 across the positive rail. Is my body creating capacitance on the inputs and causing the hum? Why would adding a cable with grounded shields cause R54 to burn?
R54 is only a temporary resistor used for the initial start up with the bias pot R30 set to maximum.
What value do you have for R19 and D3
Are you using the latest schematic?
If R19 is to large you will run into problems search my previous posts on the subject
What value do you have for R19 and D3
Are you using the latest schematic?
If R19 is to large you will run into problems search my previous posts on the subject
Attachments
Hi Stuart, thanks for the response. I was under the assumption R54 and R53 are supposed to be left in after setting the bias so I can monitor current. I will make sure to remove them after setting the bias.
I am using the BOM from the diy audio store (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1...d_Honey_Badger_2.4_Schematic.pdf?v=1619657915). R19 is 68k at 1% and D3 is a 1N4744 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/78-1N4744A-TAP). The boards are V2.4
I have not seen that version of the schematic, I have been following the links in the store and slowly readying through this whole thread. I will try to find your post on R19 and hopefully that will shed some light on the speaker hum. Thanks!
I am using the BOM from the diy audio store (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1...d_Honey_Badger_2.4_Schematic.pdf?v=1619657915). R19 is 68k at 1% and D3 is a 1N4744 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/78-1N4744A-TAP). The boards are V2.4
I have not seen that version of the schematic, I have been following the links in the store and slowly readying through this whole thread. I will try to find your post on R19 and hopefully that will shed some light on the speaker hum. Thanks!
You need to remove R54 and R53 before you set the bias. Yes you can monitor the current through them on start up but is should be under 50mA. If not there could be a assembly issue. They are only there to help prevent a major failure on start up if there is a error assembling the PCB.
Once you have turn it on and set your DC offset and CCS 1 then remove them.
The problem with your noise is.... If you use R19 = 68K then your zener diode is not operation above the knee the voltage is unstable and very noisy
Search for my posts stuartmp in this thread and use my updated schematic for the correct components. The original schematic had a option for a voltage divider to set the cascode base voltage. OS later changed the circuit to use a zener but never update R19 accordingly.
As a quick test you can also pull out C6. As R19 is currently 68K the amplifier on turn on is still trying to charge C6 and the zener current is not high enough.
I also provide some links to Elliott Sound Products website for more information.
The info in the store isn't the most accurate and our requests to have it updated have gone nowhere.
Once you have turn it on and set your DC offset and CCS 1 then remove them.
The problem with your noise is.... If you use R19 = 68K then your zener diode is not operation above the knee the voltage is unstable and very noisy
Search for my posts stuartmp in this thread and use my updated schematic for the correct components. The original schematic had a option for a voltage divider to set the cascode base voltage. OS later changed the circuit to use a zener but never update R19 accordingly.
As a quick test you can also pull out C6. As R19 is currently 68K the amplifier on turn on is still trying to charge C6 and the zener current is not high enough.
I also provide some links to Elliott Sound Products website for more information.
The info in the store isn't the most accurate and our requests to have it updated have gone nowhere.
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Thanks for all the feed back everyone. I went back and checked everything and found that Q13 was measuring 55Mohms to the chassis. It turns out Kapton tape did not work as a great insulator. I also found that the fuse in the negative rail measured 1k ohms even though it was not blown and did not show any discoloration. After properly insulating Q13 from the chassis and replacing the fuse the amp fires up again and was able to set the bias, DC offset and R14 voltage.
I still have the speaker hum at idle and my next step is to Pull C6 and test, before change R19.
I have a question regarding grounding, since there seems to be so many differing opinions. Should I connect the signal ground to the chassis ground (120Vac plug ground), or should the audio reference voltage never connect to the mains ground?
Thanks again for all your help everyone.
I still have the speaker hum at idle and my next step is to Pull C6 and test, before change R19.
I have a question regarding grounding, since there seems to be so many differing opinions. Should I connect the signal ground to the chassis ground (120Vac plug ground), or should the audio reference voltage never connect to the mains ground?
Thanks again for all your help everyone.
The Honey Badger has is own built in hum breaking resistor R4 4.7R.
Both RCA grounds tabs should be bonded together and connected to the chassis through a 1nf cap. See page 52 (81-RDER73A102K2M1H3A)
The connection of your main earth safety ground is connected to you amplifier PSU zero volt rail via a ground lift circuit.
There should be no connection from the PSU ground to the signal ground terminal. This is taken care of internally on the PCB through the R4.
All there details are in the document above.
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