My amp , wharfedale 2050A was working ok last night , tonight nothing , the light comes on when I press the power switch on but usually I hear a click and the music comes on.
Tonight no click , no music.
The worrieng bit is when I switch the amp off the light gets to about half brightness even though the power switch is off and stays like this for 20 or so seconds before fading out. It has never done this before.
Any suggestions or ideas?
Also , when the amp is switched on I can hear a humming coming from it.
Tonight no click , no music.
The worrieng bit is when I switch the amp off the light gets to about half brightness even though the power switch is off and stays like this for 20 or so seconds before fading out. It has never done this before.
Any suggestions or ideas?
Also , when the amp is switched on I can hear a humming coming from it.
My guess is that you aren't getting power supply to your output. The residual lights and spark on fuse removal means your power supply is likely working. Slowly diminishing charge on rectifier caps. The familiar click sound is likely a delay relay that is set not to switch in untill supplies are up to speed. Some amps won't permit such delay relays to engage unless supplies reach a certain level or all are present. Check what supplies you are able as a start. Look for relays and check voltages waiting on input side.
Doc
Doc
Probably, but it can double as a mute during start up and a mute during shutdown.
The mute during start up appears not to be working. There could be a DC detect circuit on the amp and this is sending a "fault signal" to the muting relay telling it to not unmute.
You need to post pics and schematic and test measurements.
In the meantime build a bulb tester and only power up the faulty amplifier through it.
The mute during start up appears not to be working. There could be a DC detect circuit on the amp and this is sending a "fault signal" to the muting relay telling it to not unmute.
You need to post pics and schematic and test measurements.
In the meantime build a bulb tester and only power up the faulty amplifier through it.
OK guys , I think I might know what has happened. My 1 year old daughter may have pulled the wires out of the back of the speaker and put the volume on full.
My partner said she tried to put a record on and when she switched the amp on a massively loud noise came from the speakers (so loud she couldn't even tell if it was music or not), she turned the volume down straight away and after that there was nothing more from the amp.
Does this make any sense?
My partner said she tried to put a record on and when she switched the amp on a massively loud noise came from the speakers (so loud she couldn't even tell if it was music or not), she turned the volume down straight away and after that there was nothing more from the amp.
Does this make any sense?
Some photos of the inside of the amp here.
Wharfedale 2050A, A rarity+ TEN Audio upgrade, Warranty | eBay
Ive just had another word with the missus and she said the amp was on CD, she switched it to phono (a record was already playing) and it made a huge noise so she switched it straight back to CD, turned the volume down then switched back to phono , at this point the amp was dead.
Might she have blown the fuses? One has blown but I though it blew when I tried to remove it and it arced against the fuse holder, also , if only one blew would both channels be quiet? Perhaps I need to replace both to be on the safe side?
Wharfedale 2050A, A rarity+ TEN Audio upgrade, Warranty | eBay
Ive just had another word with the missus and she said the amp was on CD, she switched it to phono (a record was already playing) and it made a huge noise so she switched it straight back to CD, turned the volume down then switched back to phono , at this point the amp was dead.
Might she have blown the fuses? One has blown but I though it blew when I tried to remove it and it arced against the fuse holder, also , if only one blew would both channels be quiet? Perhaps I need to replace both to be on the safe side?
Who makes maintenance and repair of this model and from where I can order a service manual of this model?
here an additional link to this amp model:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/194145-dual-concentric-volume-pot-needed.html
I have save some pics from ebay, because there this pics will be deleted after short time.
BTW - this model looks similar to Linn's vintage amp "INTEK" - perhaps both models comes from the same factory.
Huge noise (perhaps shot noise) by the switch position "Phono" means, that in this aera must be unwanted effects through corrosion/oxidation (mostly the MM/MC switch). If I am right, remove this swich and solder wires at this place according the cartridge, what you have in use.
Where exactly are the fuses located in the circuit? In serial to the loudspeaker output or in the DC voltage rails (supply-power buffer)?
It is best to check before replacing the fuses the output transistors - mounted on the big heatsink - with an ohmmeter to internal short-circuit between B-E, C-B and C-E.
here an additional link to this amp model:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/194145-dual-concentric-volume-pot-needed.html
I have save some pics from ebay, because there this pics will be deleted after short time.
BTW - this model looks similar to Linn's vintage amp "INTEK" - perhaps both models comes from the same factory.
Huge noise (perhaps shot noise) by the switch position "Phono" means, that in this aera must be unwanted effects through corrosion/oxidation (mostly the MM/MC switch). If I am right, remove this swich and solder wires at this place according the cartridge, what you have in use.
Where exactly are the fuses located in the circuit? In serial to the loudspeaker output or in the DC voltage rails (supply-power buffer)?
It is best to check before replacing the fuses the output transistors - mounted on the big heatsink - with an ohmmeter to internal short-circuit between B-E, C-B and C-E.
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Hi, they do look quite similar. I am afraid I haver no idea as to what part of the circuit the fuses are in. I think my best bet would be to let someone who knows what they are doing have a look at it.
Do you guys think this would be an expensive fix? Its not a very valuable amp however to find its equivalent in a new amp today could prove costly.
I t5hink it was the sudden pulse of current when switched from CD to Phono that blew something, output transistors perhaps?
Do you guys think this would be an expensive fix? Its not a very valuable amp however to find its equivalent in a new amp today could prove costly.
I t5hink it was the sudden pulse of current when switched from CD to Phono that blew something, output transistors perhaps?
Hi, they do look quite similar. I am afraid I haver no idea as to what part of the circuit the fuses are in. I think my best bet would be to let someone who knows what they are doing have a look at it.
Do you guys think this would be an expensive fix? Its not a very valuable amp however to find its equivalent in a new amp today could prove costly.
Do you guys think this would be an expensive fix? Its not a very valuable amp however to find its equivalent in a new amp today could prove costly.
That amp won't take much abuse due to the small size of the heatsink. Glad to see it ended well though.- Status
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