Hi all Im new
I was wondering if anyone could help me with my problem well here it goes:
Ok I own a Kenwood KA - 7020 stereo integrated amplifier, which I have had for sometime which I use to play music from my PC, I have it connected to the pc with a stereo jack to phono wire. I have the phono wires in the cd input and the stereo jack in the sound card at the back of the pc. It has been working well for a long timel, but recently its giving me a problem which is; when I switched it on, it doesnt give any sound out through the speakers at all!
I have to keep switching it on and off so many times after switching it on and off laround 20 to 30 times it starts working!
Does anyone know whats going on? Whats causing this problem? Any help will be appriciated
Thanks!
I was wondering if anyone could help me with my problem well here it goes:
Ok I own a Kenwood KA - 7020 stereo integrated amplifier, which I have had for sometime which I use to play music from my PC, I have it connected to the pc with a stereo jack to phono wire. I have the phono wires in the cd input and the stereo jack in the sound card at the back of the pc. It has been working well for a long timel, but recently its giving me a problem which is; when I switched it on, it doesnt give any sound out through the speakers at all!
I have to keep switching it on and off so many times after switching it on and off laround 20 to 30 times it starts working!
Does anyone know whats going on? Whats causing this problem? Any help will be appriciated
Thanks!
This belongs in Solid-State, not here, but...
Does the Kenwood use a speaker relay? If so, you may be used to hearing a gentle 'click' a few seconds after power-up when it was working OK. A common problem is dried out capacitors or a weak relay driver transistor in the protection circuit.
Does the Kenwood use a speaker relay? If so, you may be used to hearing a gentle 'click' a few seconds after power-up when it was working OK. A common problem is dried out capacitors or a weak relay driver transistor in the protection circuit.
With a service manual or at least a schematic we would probably be able to offer more help.
/Hugo
I dont quite understamd what you mean?
Hi, How did Netlist find this old thread--- Magic
Whats the relay you can hear click after a couple of seconds ? If the speakers are connecting to the amp if you put your ear to the tweeter you should be able to tell if the amps are at least connected- any hiss ? I would have thought a DC offset would hold the relay off-- no click.
Whats the relay you can hear click after a couple of seconds ? If the speakers are connecting to the amp if you put your ear to the tweeter you should be able to tell if the amps are at least connected- any hiss ? I would have thought a DC offset would hold the relay off-- no click.
Mooly said:Hi, How did Netlist find this old thread--- Magic
Whats the relay you can hear click after a couple of seconds ? If the speakers are connecting to the amp if you put your ear to the tweeter you should be able to tell if the amps are at least connected- any hiss ? I would have thought a DC offset would hold the relay off-- no click.
Could be a faulty relay ?
emsee said:whats a rely and how do u check if its faulty?
Its the relay yo uhear clicking a couple of seconds after power up.
It could be the contacts have got a bit burnt or worn out.
You could try a multi meter across the contacts to see if they have gone high resistance.
emsee said:And if it does turn out that the rely is gone how much would it cost to replcase and is it easy to do yourself?
Less than £3 I would guess.
You need to find out which contacts are which to test it.
Dont test it with the speaker connected or you might blow up your multi meter.
emsee said:Im sorry if im askin illetrate questions, but what are contacts what do they look like, i probably know what they are if i saw them... I know what a multimeter is but what would you say would be a high resistance?
Thank you for helpind me
The relay usually looks like a box shape around an inch or so in all directions. You will hear it click anyway when you switch it on.
The contacts will connect into the PCB.
The contacts resistance should be well less than 1 ohm.
no.
the contacts are the movable switches inside the relay case that connect/disconnect to carry/break the signal.
You have shown a transistor attached to a printed circuit board (PCB) with each of it's three legs soldered through holes surrounded by copper pads. The copper has been tinned (coated) with solder to change the colour to the dirty silver shade seen in the pic.
The 4cylinders in the other pic are electrolytic capacitors.
The rectangular red block is probably a film capacitor.
The tiny cylinder with a wire at each end is a resistor.
the contacts are the movable switches inside the relay case that connect/disconnect to carry/break the signal.
You have shown a transistor attached to a printed circuit board (PCB) with each of it's three legs soldered through holes surrounded by copper pads. The copper has been tinned (coated) with solder to change the colour to the dirty silver shade seen in the pic.
The 4cylinders in the other pic are electrolytic capacitors.
The rectangular red block is probably a film capacitor.
The tiny cylinder with a wire at each end is a resistor.
so basicly i'm going to have to remove the relay case, and inside that check the resistance of the cantcs with a multimeter...
ive located the relay blocks thers 2 of them right next to each other, i did try taking the cover of but it doesnt budge, i didnt wnat to do any harder as i might break something?
should i be trying to take it off with more force?
ive located the relay blocks thers 2 of them right next to each other, i did try taking the cover of but it doesnt budge, i didnt wnat to do any harder as i might break something?
should i be trying to take it off with more force?
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