Hello Folks !!
I'm doing the next couple of tweaks to my old Linn LK1 preamp
and the LK2 poweramps right now.
Some years ago I several caps in the RIAA section, most ps and
decoupling capacitors.
Parts used are Wima FKP3, Elna silmic, cerafine, BC 051 etc..
Now I will try Epcos Sikorel an Mundorf M-Lytic HC for the power amp
(ps is separate).
Biggest problem:
Coupling caps in the signal path even in the MC preamp are several tantal caps of small size.
Most of them are 100 + 22 µF parallel.
How to replace them? BG, Oscon, silmic ??
There's no space for FKPs..
Another question: Does anybody have more information about tweaking old Linn gear ??
I'm doing the next couple of tweaks to my old Linn LK1 preamp
and the LK2 poweramps right now.
Some years ago I several caps in the RIAA section, most ps and
decoupling capacitors.
Parts used are Wima FKP3, Elna silmic, cerafine, BC 051 etc..
Now I will try Epcos Sikorel an Mundorf M-Lytic HC for the power amp
(ps is separate).
Biggest problem:
Coupling caps in the signal path even in the MC preamp are several tantal caps of small size.
Most of them are 100 + 22 µF parallel.
How to replace them? BG, Oscon, silmic ??
There's no space for FKPs..
Another question: Does anybody have more information about tweaking old Linn gear ??
Hello,
I gave it a go and changed my 1988 LK280 power capacitors last year. I took the very same BHC reference for that (save the terminal screw on the newer ones). Unfortunately this led to problems : no more protection on start/stop, no more power LED.
And I'm not sure the sound improved at all!
Well, never mind this amp still works great.
If I were to continue on tweaking I would change the input cap (which is an Evox one if I remember) by the best cap possible, PIO?
Oh and I do have several documents on the LK1 + 2 including boms, schematics and service manuals that I'll be glad to share. It's very complicated design with CMS.
Alain
I gave it a go and changed my 1988 LK280 power capacitors last year. I took the very same BHC reference for that (save the terminal screw on the newer ones). Unfortunately this led to problems : no more protection on start/stop, no more power LED.
And I'm not sure the sound improved at all!
Well, never mind this amp still works great.
If I were to continue on tweaking I would change the input cap (which is an Evox one if I remember) by the best cap possible, PIO?
Oh and I do have several documents on the LK1 + 2 including boms, schematics and service manuals that I'll be glad to share. It's very complicated design with CMS.
Alain
my amp
confused: hi there, i want some help. Any body please tell what would be the problem the amp I made. I notice the speaker seems like breathing, moving back and forth in very slow frequency, maybe 0.5 - 1 cycle per second. Can this be called as low frequency oscillation? The sound reproduced is quite good (base on my senses only), no signs of overheating what bothers me is the thing i mentioned aboved. The topology is quasi-complementary bridge amplifier using cheap transistors 2n3055.The input is a simple ce amp with phase splitter and phase inverter to drive its partner amp, followed by two voltage amp then next are the drivers for the final amp which operate in bridge classB. I need some help not only solved this problem but also to gain knowledge.
confused: hi there, i want some help. Any body please tell what would be the problem the amp I made. I notice the speaker seems like breathing, moving back and forth in very slow frequency, maybe 0.5 - 1 cycle per second. Can this be called as low frequency oscillation? The sound reproduced is quite good (base on my senses only), no signs of overheating what bothers me is the thing i mentioned aboved. The topology is quasi-complementary bridge amplifier using cheap transistors 2n3055.The input is a simple ce amp with phase splitter and phase inverter to drive its partner amp, followed by two voltage amp then next are the drivers for the final amp which operate in bridge classB. I need some help not only solved this problem but also to gain knowledge.
lk1 schematics
hi does anyone have the schematics for the lk1?
i need to find a replacement cap that's compatible with the c12 Linn part number cap 002
Philips 035gv
please email to p.rourke@blueyonder.co.uk
many thanks peter
hi does anyone have the schematics for the lk1?
i need to find a replacement cap that's compatible with the c12 Linn part number cap 002
Philips 035gv
please email to p.rourke@blueyonder.co.uk
many thanks peter
DIY-spark?
Ticktock,
could you provide specs on the DIY-spark mentioned in your equipment list?
Anyone have details on the difference between LK2 and LK280? I know the board has been changed but the only BOM I can find relates to the original LK2...
Have got a couple of early spec LK2's waiting for tweaks...
BR,
Lasse
Ticktock,
could you provide specs on the DIY-spark mentioned in your equipment list?
Anyone have details on the difference between LK2 and LK280? I know the board has been changed but the only BOM I can find relates to the original LK2...
Have got a couple of early spec LK2's waiting for tweaks...
BR,
Lasse
From The LK2 Service Manual :
"There were three versions of the LK2:
· The first version was known at the time simply as the LK2. It gave an output of 60 watts per channel (into 8 ohm load) and used PCAS 003 type boards. For the purposes of this manual, we will refer to this version as the LK260.
· The second type was also usually known as the LK2 but was often called the LK275 to differentiate it from the 60-watt version, as it gave 75 watts per channel. Also used PCAS 003 type boards but with several improvements over the 60 watt version – the most obvious being the increased power output, but also had improved protection circuitry and better sound.
· The third and last type was known universally as the LK280. 80 watts per channel – used PCAS 020 boards. PCAS 020s, at first glance are similar to PCAS 003s, in that they are roughly the same size, shape and layout, but they are a completely different design of board (i.e. not just a modified version of PCAS 003) as a closer examination shows. The LK280 sounded considerably better than either of its predecessors.
How to differentiate between types of LK2
There are several methods of determining the specification of an LK2:
· Looking at the serial number of a unit and using the LK2 Product History (accessible via Linfo website – Product Information) will tell you which revision it was sold as. Since, however upgrade kits were sold by Linn in large quantities to allow customers to convert their early version LK2 into the latest spec, many units are not what they seem. The following information will help you to determine the
specification of a unit if its exact history is unknown.
· LK280s had “LK280” printed on the facia – earlier units (LK2 & LK275) had “LK2” printed there, but beware – an earlier version may have been upgraded to LK280 spec.
· LK260s and LK275s had a red power LED and LK280s had a green LED. This is handy as a quick and easy indicator but is not 100% reliable (LEDs are easily changed)
· The best way to determine a unit’s spec is simply to remove the sleeve and look at the boards thatare fitted (see below)."
"There were three versions of the LK2:
· The first version was known at the time simply as the LK2. It gave an output of 60 watts per channel (into 8 ohm load) and used PCAS 003 type boards. For the purposes of this manual, we will refer to this version as the LK260.
· The second type was also usually known as the LK2 but was often called the LK275 to differentiate it from the 60-watt version, as it gave 75 watts per channel. Also used PCAS 003 type boards but with several improvements over the 60 watt version – the most obvious being the increased power output, but also had improved protection circuitry and better sound.
· The third and last type was known universally as the LK280. 80 watts per channel – used PCAS 020 boards. PCAS 020s, at first glance are similar to PCAS 003s, in that they are roughly the same size, shape and layout, but they are a completely different design of board (i.e. not just a modified version of PCAS 003) as a closer examination shows. The LK280 sounded considerably better than either of its predecessors.
How to differentiate between types of LK2
There are several methods of determining the specification of an LK2:
· Looking at the serial number of a unit and using the LK2 Product History (accessible via Linfo website – Product Information) will tell you which revision it was sold as. Since, however upgrade kits were sold by Linn in large quantities to allow customers to convert their early version LK2 into the latest spec, many units are not what they seem. The following information will help you to determine the
specification of a unit if its exact history is unknown.
· LK280s had “LK280” printed on the facia – earlier units (LK2 & LK275) had “LK2” printed there, but beware – an earlier version may have been upgraded to LK280 spec.
· LK260s and LK275s had a red power LED and LK280s had a green LED. This is handy as a quick and easy indicator but is not 100% reliable (LEDs are easily changed)
· The best way to determine a unit’s spec is simply to remove the sleeve and look at the boards thatare fitted (see below)."
Re: DIY-spark?
Hi Lasse,
I still dont't know exactly the correct voltages, but they are the same
in all LK2/60, LK2/75, LK280 and Klout. The original toroidal is large enough
with it's 650 VA for 95 % of all loudspeakers and listening situations.
The best to tune up the older LK2/60 wil be this:
- do the 'reliability mods' (as shown in the Linn manual)
- replace the big caps for new, better and slightly larger/more ones
- replace (or bypass with KP) the muddy tantalum input cap
- replace the rectifier diodes with fast soft recovery types
BR, Holger
Lippoman said:
Hi Lasse,
I still dont't know exactly the correct voltages, but they are the same
in all LK2/60, LK2/75, LK280 and Klout. The original toroidal is large enough
with it's 650 VA for 95 % of all loudspeakers and listening situations.
The best to tune up the older LK2/60 wil be this:
- do the 'reliability mods' (as shown in the Linn manual)
- replace the big caps for new, better and slightly larger/more ones
- replace (or bypass with KP) the muddy tantalum input cap
- replace the rectifier diodes with fast soft recovery types
BR, Holger