I am having problems with power-on cycle on my NAD C370 amp. The delay between power-on and deactivation of protection (the moment when the amp unmutes sound and amber LED turns green) increased to 3-5 minutes. After that, amp seems to be working fine. The problem does not affect the sound.
My questions are:
1. Where can I get schematics for protection circuitry? I saw power amp schematics on this board, but it did not include protection curcuits.
2. Any recommendations on where to look for problem first? I must admit I am not very experienced in DIY electronics, but I have basic skills and know how to use multimeter. I feel I would be able to repair the amp... if only I knew what exactly is wrong with it.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Andrei
My questions are:
1. Where can I get schematics for protection circuitry? I saw power amp schematics on this board, but it did not include protection curcuits.
2. Any recommendations on where to look for problem first? I must admit I am not very experienced in DIY electronics, but I have basic skills and know how to use multimeter. I feel I would be able to repair the amp... if only I knew what exactly is wrong with it.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Andrei
Nad C370
look at this
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-97892.html
...and search for it at: http://fileshare.eshop.bg
you will find a schem "with" the protection circuit.
greetings from Berlin Michael
look at this
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-97892.html
...and search for it at: http://fileshare.eshop.bg
you will find a schem "with" the protection circuit.
greetings from Berlin Michael
Nad C370
Hello!
As I do work for a NAD Dealer, this might help:
Your problem is probably due to The Electrolytic Capacitors on the Speaker Protect Board - (you are in the right place)!
These Electros get overheated by heat from the Zener diode, which is mounted at the top of the Pcb, and they then dry up, losing their value.
My fix: To replace all these electros, and remove the Zener Diode from the front/top of the Pcb, then resolder it back onto the back/
bottom of the board, so letting it's heat go elsewhere.
(make sure of it's correct polarity).
In our Opinion, this is a VERY bad design point of the C370, as it
has the effect of a built-in 'time bomb', and the Amp will eventually fail no go. I can't see why NAD would have done this.
I have now repaired several the same, and this works really well.
Hope this helps You!
Regards, Telnet.
Hello!
As I do work for a NAD Dealer, this might help:
Your problem is probably due to The Electrolytic Capacitors on the Speaker Protect Board - (you are in the right place)!
These Electros get overheated by heat from the Zener diode, which is mounted at the top of the Pcb, and they then dry up, losing their value.
My fix: To replace all these electros, and remove the Zener Diode from the front/top of the Pcb, then resolder it back onto the back/
bottom of the board, so letting it's heat go elsewhere.
(make sure of it's correct polarity).
In our Opinion, this is a VERY bad design point of the C370, as it
has the effect of a built-in 'time bomb', and the Amp will eventually fail no go. I can't see why NAD would have done this.
I have now repaired several the same, and this works really well.
Hope this helps You!
Regards, Telnet.
Thanks to all above. Have just replaced the 3 capacitors described, which has cured my C370 start up delay problem. I didn't move the Zener, should have really, but it was at least 12mm above the capacitors.
I was disappointed that when I rang the local Nad dealer, they said they could cure the problem, which they had not heard of and they didn't have any service manuals or schematics. Estmated repair cost, £80-£100!!
Thanks again.
John
I was disappointed that when I rang the local Nad dealer, they said they could cure the problem, which they had not heard of and they didn't have any service manuals or schematics. Estmated repair cost, £80-£100!!
Thanks again.
John
Old post, but this may help someone
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Also, remove the black diode (Zener) above the caps and solder it on the other side of the board - so it does not heat up the new caps again. Watch proper polarity!
Last edited:
I got replacement caps at local Frys for about a dollar each. After the replacement amp runs as new. No more long delays, only a normal couple of seconds.
Practical hands-on suggestions
1. Clean the inside from old dust with vacuum and a clean dry paintbrush. The unit is much nicer to work on when clean.
2. You must remove the Speaker Protection Board in order to replace the three bad caps and to turn around the Zener diode. First unscrew the section of bottom panel to see the solder side of the PCB. Use a good solder sucker pump, or solder wick, to free all pins one-by-one and the four corners of the steel surround.
3. When finished cap replacement, do make sure there are no solder bridges between solder points. They are so close to one another that it's easy to make unintentionally a tiny solder bridge.
Practical hands-on suggestions
1. Clean the inside from old dust with vacuum and a clean dry paintbrush. The unit is much nicer to work on when clean.
2. You must remove the Speaker Protection Board in order to replace the three bad caps and to turn around the Zener diode. First unscrew the section of bottom panel to see the solder side of the PCB. Use a good solder sucker pump, or solder wick, to free all pins one-by-one and the four corners of the steel surround.
3. When finished cap replacement, do make sure there are no solder bridges between solder points. They are so close to one another that it's easy to make unintentionally a tiny solder bridge.
Alternatively, removing all screws in the amp's back panel will allow you to tilt it back and get access to the underbelly of the Speaker Protection Board. This would be easier than desoldering the Protection Board pin by pin.
This solution worked for me too.
Total cost, euro 3,14. Actually bought 10psc of each cap (minimum order amount). And I bought the 105 degrees Celcius caps, also placed the Zener on the back.
The solution Gary Indiana offers looks like something one should try, as the PCB in the NAD is really crappy material. I "broke" one trace while de-soldering the whole module and had to repair it after replacing the module.
Basically the PCB is cardboard with some metal on it... Quite disappointing.
Upside, the amp is as good as new!
Thanks all for contributing to this solution.
Total cost, euro 3,14. Actually bought 10psc of each cap (minimum order amount). And I bought the 105 degrees Celcius caps, also placed the Zener on the back.
The solution Gary Indiana offers looks like something one should try, as the PCB in the NAD is really crappy material. I "broke" one trace while de-soldering the whole module and had to repair it after replacing the module.
Basically the PCB is cardboard with some metal on it... Quite disappointing.
Upside, the amp is as good as new!
Thanks all for contributing to this solution.I know this topic is very old, but nevertheless i'll give it a try. I just repaired my c370 by replacing the three caps. And it works again so thanks for that! However, now I have a very faint and fast clicking sound in the right channel. Especially noticable during pauses. And it's really annoying when listening through headphones. Does anyone know where this comes from? It's driving me mad
Thnx
Mich
so thanks for that! However, now I have a very faint and fast clicking sound in the right channel. Especially noticable during pauses. And it's really annoying when listening through headphones. Does anyone know where this comes from? It's driving me mad Thnx
Mich
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