A LOT, despite the high "q" of the driver.. which of course "translates" into higher excursion.
When I build it into the platform I'll probably make a sort of "H" frame design - to lower the freq. at which the dipole loss starts.
Hello ScottG,
How are you doing?
Has been some time, had to focus on some other tasks but I have finally made myself a somewhat usable prototype front baffle.
It's in one full piece of two sandwiched 3/4" MDF
Have messed up a bit the insert for the tweeter wave-guide but for the prototype It should be usable, had to lower the Fostex cutout around half an inch lower because of that but it should not be too much of an issue.
The circle cutout for the Gradient was the the most easy to do but my router bit was not long enough for the full depth so I had to force the center out a bit, so end up with some cosmetic issue that I will avoid in the final baffle
I have chamfered at 45° the backside of all the cutouts, but in the future if I want to use wood inserts/nuts to hold the woofer in place I may have to leave some parts not chamfered
I wanted to apply the wide round-over on the outside edges with the router bit you advised me before but I end up with an issue, it's too wide for the router center hole, so depth is too low and also my router can't rest correctly level on the side, the only way I see me using that may to build myself a table to fit the router under, in the meantime I will satisfy myself with a 45° bevel
I spent more time trying to solve how to do the woodwork than I thought I will but this is a good experiences for me, and before I commit to anything final after I'll probably use again some basic MDF to make sure I got all right.
So for the initial measurement, do you think I should have small side panels along the height of the front baffle to reduce back-wave or it does not matter?
My next step will be building that turn-table, wish me luck
How are you doing?
Has been some time, had to focus on some other tasks but I have finally made myself a somewhat usable prototype front baffle.
It's in one full piece of two sandwiched 3/4" MDF
Have messed up a bit the insert for the tweeter wave-guide but for the prototype It should be usable, had to lower the Fostex cutout around half an inch lower because of that but it should not be too much of an issue.
The circle cutout for the Gradient was the the most easy to do but my router bit was not long enough for the full depth so I had to force the center out a bit, so end up with some cosmetic issue that I will avoid in the final baffle
I have chamfered at 45° the backside of all the cutouts, but in the future if I want to use wood inserts/nuts to hold the woofer in place I may have to leave some parts not chamfered
I wanted to apply the wide round-over on the outside edges with the router bit you advised me before but I end up with an issue, it's too wide for the router center hole, so depth is too low and also my router can't rest correctly level on the side, the only way I see me using that may to build myself a table to fit the router under, in the meantime I will satisfy myself with a 45° bevel
I spent more time trying to solve how to do the woodwork than I thought I will but this is a good experiences for me, and before I commit to anything final after I'll probably use again some basic MDF to make sure I got all right.
So for the initial measurement, do you think I should have small side panels along the height of the front baffle to reduce back-wave or it does not matter?
My next step will be building that turn-table, wish me luck
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..good to hear about some progress!
No side panels for the test baffle. You could effectively "wrap" the test baffle edges (be it top/bottom or L&R sides) with some fairly rigid rock wool if you wanted. It would still need to be flush with the front baffle surface though - no "lip" (like a typical painting's frame), but a "lip" on the rear with this material is OK.
Good luck!
-as for me: not much happening with my build (and I have other projects that are also combined with this one for materials).. There is a "logistic" element to getting the larger panels to my home without spending a lot on delivery that I haven't really worked out yet. (..scheduling my time, use of my father's SUV (with trailer hook-up), renting the appropriate trailer, and then going to the home improvement store and getting the panels and having some of them cut as needed.) I think in a few weeks though I'll have those larger panels to start back into it.
No side panels for the test baffle. You could effectively "wrap" the test baffle edges (be it top/bottom or L&R sides) with some fairly rigid rock wool if you wanted. It would still need to be flush with the front baffle surface though - no "lip" (like a typical painting's frame), but a "lip" on the rear with this material is OK.
Good luck!
-as for me: not much happening with my build (and I have other projects that are also combined with this one for materials).. There is a "logistic" element to getting the larger panels to my home without spending a lot on delivery that I haven't really worked out yet. (..scheduling my time, use of my father's SUV (with trailer hook-up), renting the appropriate trailer, and then going to the home improvement store and getting the panels and having some of them cut as needed.) I think in a few weeks though I'll have those larger panels to start back into it.
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Ho good idea that rockwool absorbing border! I'll go buy me some more, I need them anyway to put on the floor or around to limit de floor wall effects , and there is -25% on the price at the moment (there is no too small economy)
Thank!
The usual larger panels here are 4x8", can find a bit larger but its not usual.
PS: I spent some time messing in electronics too and noticed it's not that simple when you start from nothing, I had to repair my 3D Lab CD200 (old model) the back-light for the LCD was dead. after dismantling it I noticed it was 3 very small bulb in serial, one in the middle was dead, instead of bypassing it I decided to modify and use LED instead (should not have...) but the current was in 25v AC so I bought an a rectifier with a big heatsink and a Variable DC Stepdown board and integrated all this in the case.
In the end I found no way to have three LED in series on the backlight board, either they did not have enough current to light or too much and one smoked, ended up putting all that to have one LED only, what a mess !
But now at least I have some equipment when I am required to build passive filters for the speakers
Thank!
The usual larger panels here are 4x8", can find a bit larger but its not usual.
PS: I spent some time messing in electronics too and noticed it's not that simple when you start from nothing, I had to repair my 3D Lab CD200 (old model) the back-light for the LCD was dead. after dismantling it I noticed it was 3 very small bulb in serial, one in the middle was dead, instead of bypassing it I decided to modify and use LED instead (should not have...) but the current was in 25v AC so I bought an a rectifier with a big heatsink and a Variable DC Stepdown board and integrated all this in the case.
In the end I found no way to have three LED in series on the backlight board, either they did not have enough current to light or too much and one smoked, ended up putting all that to have one LED only, what a mess !
But now at least I have some equipment when I am required to build passive filters for the speakers
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