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Advices on First Crossover Design (VituixCAD2)
Advices on First Crossover Design (VituixCAD2)
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Old 11th July 2019, 12:11 AM   #341
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrZoltan View Post
So I may be confused about words, when you say "baffle" do you say front panel of the cabinet ? (in green on the picture below)


If yes then does that mean I would make measurements at first without the actual cabinet but just that front part ?



Click the image to open in full size.


The entire baffle: that's the entire front panel of the cabinet/box. ("green/mid-tweet integrated with black/woofer - single panel).

While you could split it up into two different cabinets as shown, I wouldn't.

When you go to measure for the mid. tweet, the full cabinet will provide more accurate results to the final result (..though the differences shouldn't be much different).
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Old 11th July 2019, 03:56 PM   #342
MrZoltan is offline MrZoltan
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Originally Posted by ScottG View Post
While you could split it up into two different cabinets as shown, I wouldn't.

Why not separated ? It would be easier to redo just that part if need to adjust mid/high placement or remove/change that Fostex that I see coming.



BTW I just received the Radian LT2 from Thomann, and they did not deliver the dipole version as requested, lucky me as usual, I wrote them back to see how they plan to correct the mistake.


Also got that giant round-over router bit today straight from USA, seem to be well made at first glance
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Old 12th July 2019, 04:54 AM   #343
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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IF you use both portions of the baffle for doing mid.-tweeter measurements, then yeah: should work well.

Can you remove the LT2's rear without damaging the terminals? (..that terminal damage is a problem with other cheaper planars like HiVi/Beston, but in the case of the Neo 3 it isn't a problem). If so, then you basically have the dipole version. I'd probably ask Radian 1st:

Support - Radian Audio



Wow, that was pretty fast shipping from the US. Good to hear that it arrived quickly and looks good.
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Old 12th July 2019, 08:18 AM   #344
MrZoltan is offline MrZoltan
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Yes that's the plan I'll keep the top & bottom baffle joined


Well I have left a message to Radian as well now.
On inspection I guess that the back could be removed without impacting the terminals, it's sealed with a sort of black glue tough and I consider that last resort as I don't want to mess up anything and voiding the warranty at the same time.


Here a few pictures so you can see for yourself the assembly :
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12th July 2019, 06:43 PM   #345
MrZoltan is offline MrZoltan
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Yeah Radian replied that the dipole version is available to OEM/ODM only and they are pretty adamant about it
They also do not provide any information or support about removing the back as I expected.



So either I open them myself but I am not sure I want to take the risk prying them open, if they end up damaged I will be at a loss.


I could also send them back and try to get a pair of Beston RT002A from cadaudio.dk



Or I could swallow the bitter pill and keep the drivers as-is for another eventual project and find another option anyway


There has been many bumps, first the dead Scanspeak, then the dead LT plan and now this, I start to be a tad frustrated.
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Old 12th July 2019, 08:45 PM   #346
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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Is it a glue, or is it a plastic weld?

What I might do in this situation is simply remove/"shave"-off the top of the back-chamber first with a "coping" hand saw - which would allow me to inspect the interior chamber and joint. Even if you can't pry the glue/weld area off well: you've still got open-back at that point (though you'll likely need a bit of fiber/absorption around the remaining "wall" edges of the rear). ..Or of course, just try prying off the glue or weld joint with a hobby knife and take your chances.

-at around $60 (each I'm assuming), and without obvious problems from terminals, I'd say go for it. At worst you'll loose one driver and the time needed to get a new one.


CAUTION: when you start using these drivers - do NOT solder to the terminals, instead crimp connectors onto the ends of your wire (and then slide the connectors onto the terminals). Heating-up the terminals on these foil drivers just destroys the drivers.
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Last edited by ScottG; 12th July 2019 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 12th July 2019, 08:50 PM   #347
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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Originally Posted by MrZoltan View Post
There has been many bumps, first the dead Scanspeak, then the dead LT plan and now this, I start to be a tad frustrated.
"Par for the course".

I had to "buy" my large inductor 4 times before I actually had it sent to me. (..twice from Erse and twice from Parts Express - with the 2nd one from Parts Express finally coming through, though no word when it shipped - it just arrived after a week and a half from that second order.)

By contrast that MCM order on the sub drivers arrived within 5 business days. And my average Amazon order (from Amazon) typically arrives within 3 business days (..without Prime of course).
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Old 12th July 2019, 09:10 PM   #348
MrZoltan is offline MrZoltan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottG View Post
Is it a glue, or is it a plastic weld?

What I might do in this situation is simply remove/"shave"-off the top of the back-chamber first with a "coping" hand saw - which would allow me to inspect the interior chamber and joint. Even if you can't pry the glue/weld area off well: you've still got open-back at that point. Or of course, just try prying off the glue or weld joint with a hobby knife and take your chances.

-at around $60 (each I'm assuming), and without obvious problems from terminals, I'd say go for it. At worst you'll loose one driver and the time needed to get a new one.

CAUTION: when you start using these drivers - do NOT solder to the terminals, instead crimp connectors onto the ends of your wire (and then slide the connectors onto the terminals). Heating-up the terminals on these foil drivers just destroys the drivers.

I have no Idea what is that black stuff, I assumed it was some kind of glue because I don't suppose they would melt plastic to cover the nuts & bolts.


Imagining sawing that tweeter, give me the feeling that I would saw one of my bone

Sawing that cover would introduce nasty plastic particles into that ribbon under don't you think?



Close, It's $55.22 per driver at the current exchange rate


Yes mental note about soldering Ribbon Drivers, same with AMT ?
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Old 12th July 2019, 09:26 PM   #349
MrZoltan is offline MrZoltan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottG View Post
"Par for the course".

I had to "buy" my large inductor 4 times before I actually had it sent to me. (..twice from Erse and twice from Parts Express - with the 2nd one from Parts Express finally coming through, though no word when it shipped - it just arrived after a week and a half from that second order.)

By contrast that MCM order on the sub drivers arrived within 5 business days. And my average Amazon order (from Amazon) typically arrives within 3 business days (..without Prime of course).

Yeah, I have to take that with an ounce of philosophy


But you did get you money back from the undelivered other orders right ?
The Radian delivery was nearly twenty five days to arrive, I explicitly asked for a confirmation it would be the dipole version, I suppose the guy at Thomann that confirmed didn't bother to check with Radian first, I'm curious to see the answer they will give me about that.



Am I expecting too much ? Maybe, when I work with customers I always am honest and do not leave room for false expectations.
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Old 12th July 2019, 09:32 PM   #350
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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I don't know about the AMT.. probably, but it's got a lot more surface area so perhaps less so?


It's just a plastic (ABS) cover - not very thick either. It really shouldn't be difficult to cut through that ABS. A lot easier than cutting through typical plumbing pipe, and that's not difficult either.

I wouldn't be worried about plastic filings: just tap and shake the driver a bit afterward and blow on it. Get a rub-buzz before hand along with an impedance trace. Any problems later will show up on the impedance trace.

Do the screws have anything to do with the cup/chamber we are interested in? I looked at your pic.s and it didn't seem that way.
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