Hey guys,
Can you recommend any text book or good articles for complete home theater acoustics design ???
Something that covers all the important points in building a home theater.
Like measurements of reverberation time.
Different absorption materials and how to choose.
Right combination of absorption & diffusion.
How to make a flooring for tactile movie bass.
What are the different layers of acoustic treatment on concrete walls, and what is the right order.
Like this all topics of room acoustics for a home theater build.
Any such books available ??
Can you recommend any text book or good articles for complete home theater acoustics design ???
Something that covers all the important points in building a home theater.
Like measurements of reverberation time.
Different absorption materials and how to choose.
Right combination of absorption & diffusion.
How to make a flooring for tactile movie bass.
What are the different layers of acoustic treatment on concrete walls, and what is the right order.
Like this all topics of room acoustics for a home theater build.
Any such books available ??
Geddes book is good but as it is from 2003, you will have to keep the new formats in mind if you have interest in immersive audio. -Like Auro-3D, Atmos, DTS-X Pro which have speakers mounted high up on walls or in ceiling. Atmos are in a very clear majority for movies coming from Hollywood but as you are from India, I'm not sure about Bollywood movies. Auro-3D installation of speakers works well on Atmos movies but not the other way around. Auro-3D seems to be favoured over Atmos when it comes to upmixing 2 channel music by those who have tested the various formats in practice (and also for upmixing poorly made Atmos movies with too little content in the height channels).
Concrete and bricks can behave porous = sound waves leak through to some degree. If soundproofing is important, put about 15 mm of grout on the concrete / bricks, preferably on both sides but at at least on the side against the home theater. Further improvement of sound proofing would be to put up a stud wall about 20-25 cm away from the concrete wall. (The larger air gap the better sound proofing!) At no point should the stud wall and the concrete shell be in contact with each other. The air gap between outer shell and inner walls should be filled with glass wool or rockwool (or other insulation material) do not compress it for a firm contract between the walls. No chain is stronger than it weakest link. If the ceiling is high enough, erect ceiling beams across the room and have an insulation filled air gap here too before OSB and plasterbords are screwed to the beams. If the ceiling height does not allow a "room-in-a room" construction", I would not waste too much money on other sound proofing measures. That chain you know ..., why waste money on something giving little to no benefit. Contact a civil engineer on suitable dimension of ceiling beams which depends on the room width. -You dont' want the ceiling to fall down on you ... For tactile feeling, if you have a concrete floor, build some plywood podiums and put the sofa /chairs on the podium. They can also work as helmholtz absorbers versus hard to treat bass modes.
Another book well worth investing in and reading is Rod Gervais' "Built it like the Pros". This one concerns studios and control rooms but all his advices are applicable concerning the building of a top notch home theater from scratch and up. (If you aren't building yourself, read more than once so you can notice possible mistakes from construction workers. -Building a studio / dedicated home theater is not at all the same as building residential rooms. Very different demands!
On you You Tube there are some pretty good hour long interviews with Anthony Grimani about home theater planning and building.
Concrete and bricks can behave porous = sound waves leak through to some degree. If soundproofing is important, put about 15 mm of grout on the concrete / bricks, preferably on both sides but at at least on the side against the home theater. Further improvement of sound proofing would be to put up a stud wall about 20-25 cm away from the concrete wall. (The larger air gap the better sound proofing!) At no point should the stud wall and the concrete shell be in contact with each other. The air gap between outer shell and inner walls should be filled with glass wool or rockwool (or other insulation material) do not compress it for a firm contract between the walls. No chain is stronger than it weakest link. If the ceiling is high enough, erect ceiling beams across the room and have an insulation filled air gap here too before OSB and plasterbords are screwed to the beams. If the ceiling height does not allow a "room-in-a room" construction", I would not waste too much money on other sound proofing measures. That chain you know ..., why waste money on something giving little to no benefit. Contact a civil engineer on suitable dimension of ceiling beams which depends on the room width. -You dont' want the ceiling to fall down on you ... For tactile feeling, if you have a concrete floor, build some plywood podiums and put the sofa /chairs on the podium. They can also work as helmholtz absorbers versus hard to treat bass modes.
Another book well worth investing in and reading is Rod Gervais' "Built it like the Pros". This one concerns studios and control rooms but all his advices are applicable concerning the building of a top notch home theater from scratch and up. (If you aren't building yourself, read more than once so you can notice possible mistakes from construction workers. -Building a studio / dedicated home theater is not at all the same as building residential rooms. Very different demands!
On you You Tube there are some pretty good hour long interviews with Anthony Grimani about home theater planning and building.
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