Interesting problem.
Years ago I had a similar design issue: create a small recording booth in a basement right beside a huge, noisy heating system in a house located less than 100 yards from a streetcar line. We didn't have your height or door swing constraints. Frankly, if we had those too I would have tried to relocate the studio.
Since your "studio" seems to be located already and in the absence of more detailed information, I would first suggest relocating the door away from the noise and the low "duct ceiling".
The wall construction needs to be carefully detailed or, as was pointed out previously, your overall results will be equivocal. Decoupling, mass and sealing are essential. Staggered studs, resilient channels or double studding combined with heavy gypsum board (5/8")... perhaps two layers.. and acoustic caulking to fill the necessary gaps between the new drywall and the floor-ceiling and bounding walls. Rock wool between the studs.
Green glue is supposed to an end run around the traditional decoupled-mass designs but I haven't used it and I'm skeptical... and old school. White glue won't do the same thing.
A pocket door seems a bad idea. The sliding deck door, however, is an inspired idea.
The advice to reduce noise at the source is a good one. The solution to this will include complementary measures.
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjLg_HmovvvAhVXBc0KHb4HDVwQFjAAegQIAxAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.certainteed.ca%2Fresources%2FCT874%2520Gyp%2520Systems%2520Manual%2520E%2520R1-1.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3bbEnlclz1NXb8CEkr5rMU
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clark-W...Resilient-Channel-Single-Leg-727181/202090218
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00536VQE0...8a29f5909c1ab026f35907859352b16&tag=001asd-20
Years ago I had a similar design issue: create a small recording booth in a basement right beside a huge, noisy heating system in a house located less than 100 yards from a streetcar line. We didn't have your height or door swing constraints. Frankly, if we had those too I would have tried to relocate the studio.
Since your "studio" seems to be located already and in the absence of more detailed information, I would first suggest relocating the door away from the noise and the low "duct ceiling".
The wall construction needs to be carefully detailed or, as was pointed out previously, your overall results will be equivocal. Decoupling, mass and sealing are essential. Staggered studs, resilient channels or double studding combined with heavy gypsum board (5/8")... perhaps two layers.. and acoustic caulking to fill the necessary gaps between the new drywall and the floor-ceiling and bounding walls. Rock wool between the studs.
Green glue is supposed to an end run around the traditional decoupled-mass designs but I haven't used it and I'm skeptical... and old school. White glue won't do the same thing.
A pocket door seems a bad idea. The sliding deck door, however, is an inspired idea.
The advice to reduce noise at the source is a good one. The solution to this will include complementary measures.
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjLg_HmovvvAhVXBc0KHb4HDVwQFjAAegQIAxAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.certainteed.ca%2Fresources%2FCT874%2520Gyp%2520Systems%2520Manual%2520E%2520R1-1.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3bbEnlclz1NXb8CEkr5rMU
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clark-W...Resilient-Channel-Single-Leg-727181/202090218
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00536VQE0...8a29f5909c1ab026f35907859352b16&tag=001asd-20
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mhenscel,
Unfortunately I am dealing with an existing room and relocating the door is out of the question and the low duct runs almost to the end of the house.
The wall to the right of the opening, which we haven't discussed, has a cabinet along with multiple shelves attached to it so a resilient channel wall isn't an option. I can add say a 2" x 2" header and footer and build an offset stud wall with insulation and drywall. This would be phase 2 winter project with having to take down cabinet and shelves.
Thanks for the help,
Scott
Unfortunately I am dealing with an existing room and relocating the door is out of the question and the low duct runs almost to the end of the house.
The wall to the right of the opening, which we haven't discussed, has a cabinet along with multiple shelves attached to it so a resilient channel wall isn't an option. I can add say a 2" x 2" header and footer and build an offset stud wall with insulation and drywall. This would be phase 2 winter project with having to take down cabinet and shelves.
Thanks for the help,
Scott
Scott,
Methinks you are best to deal with what you have and not rewrite the book here. A 2x2 stud wall with drywall on one side only will do what you want and will create the pocket for your sliding laminated door. This is handyman stuff, not what the big boys do but will be more than satisfactory. It's what I'd do if my goals/ambitions/limitations were the same.
I have a slightly different view but it comes down to how much you love your spouse and how solid your relationship is when push comes to shove.
I ask my wife for a limited amount of undisturbed time in the cave.
If she wishes to impose on that, I fire up the big boys rather than the critical listening units. When she asks why I didn't respond to her pounding on the floor or answer my cel phone, I simply tell her I couldn't hear them as I had to overcome the noise she was making during my cave time.
Methinks you are best to deal with what you have and not rewrite the book here. A 2x2 stud wall with drywall on one side only will do what you want and will create the pocket for your sliding laminated door. This is handyman stuff, not what the big boys do but will be more than satisfactory. It's what I'd do if my goals/ambitions/limitations were the same.
I have a slightly different view but it comes down to how much you love your spouse and how solid your relationship is when push comes to shove.
I ask my wife for a limited amount of undisturbed time in the cave.
If she wishes to impose on that, I fire up the big boys rather than the critical listening units. When she asks why I didn't respond to her pounding on the floor or answer my cel phone, I simply tell her I couldn't hear them as I had to overcome the noise she was making during my cave time.
Cal,
I agree with you on doing what I can with my skillset to make a reasonable improvement along with not having a huge outlay of cash to do the project.
The Mrs. would like to have a door between the rooms so that works in my favor.
She runs a home daycare so there are times where she HAS to do laundry with that being said she doesn't object too much when I dial it up a bit.
Thanks again,
Scott
I'll post some picks when I get it done.
I agree with you on doing what I can with my skillset to make a reasonable improvement along with not having a huge outlay of cash to do the project.
The Mrs. would like to have a door between the rooms so that works in my favor.
She runs a home daycare so there are times where she HAS to do laundry with that being said she doesn't object too much when I dial it up a bit.
Thanks again,
Scott
I'll post some picks when I get it done.
@Cal
You might be right about the Green Glue. I have been generally suspicious of their claims... they sounded too much like magical thinking. But as a product that is generally attached intimately to structure (the studs) I would have thought that that compromised every aspect of its isolation performance including impacts (not that wall or door impacts are very consequential... not like floors). That said, materials that convert acoustic vibration into heat don't pass on those acoustic vibrations, including low frequencies (depending on their deployment). There are also sound deadening membrane products that operate in much the same way ( Common Wall Sounproofing | Block the Noise | NetWell )
Interestingly the Green Glue site has a video showing resilient mounting (though of course it's their own proprietary system).
Installation and Application Videos for Green Glue
You might be right about the Green Glue. I have been generally suspicious of their claims... they sounded too much like magical thinking. But as a product that is generally attached intimately to structure (the studs) I would have thought that that compromised every aspect of its isolation performance including impacts (not that wall or door impacts are very consequential... not like floors). That said, materials that convert acoustic vibration into heat don't pass on those acoustic vibrations, including low frequencies (depending on their deployment). There are also sound deadening membrane products that operate in much the same way ( Common Wall Sounproofing | Block the Noise | NetWell )
Interestingly the Green Glue site has a video showing resilient mounting (though of course it's their own proprietary system).
Installation and Application Videos for Green Glue
I would worry less about the idea of soundproofing, there are too many issues you have stated to go for a sealed option and the lack of all the other walls / floor surfaces being done properly means you may end up wasya lot of money and effort.
Personally i would go with a sliding laminate that is hung from above NOT resting on ground sliders.
12.5mm plasterboard bonded to 25mm plasterboard bonded to a 1.5mm steel sheet bonded to 12.5mm plasterboard bonded to 25mm plasterboard.
Use AC 50 ( from evostick) VERY LIBERALLY
Mount rubber gaskets around the closing edge on the room side
Slide it into place
Mass is king and a layerd approach will really work wonders
Personally i would go with a sliding laminate that is hung from above NOT resting on ground sliders.
12.5mm plasterboard bonded to 25mm plasterboard bonded to a 1.5mm steel sheet bonded to 12.5mm plasterboard bonded to 25mm plasterboard.
Use AC 50 ( from evostick) VERY LIBERALLY
Mount rubber gaskets around the closing edge on the room side
Slide it into place
Mass is king and a layerd approach will really work wonders
