Best to plan on making some traps for the floor-to-ceiling resonance, EQ doesn't always sound the best in solving a time domain problem.
The vented LaScala sounds really good on music, but puts a demand on a compression driver (unless you want to try a Synergy style mid and HF).
I own a pair of the Faital 146, they look a bit smoother than the 144. If you are ,going three-way with a 1.5Khz crossover, I would look at the 108, smoother and goes higher.
The 18sound XT1464 does sound better than the Faital 142.
The vented LaScala sounds really good on music, but puts a demand on a compression driver (unless you want to try a Synergy style mid and HF).
I own a pair of the Faital 146, they look a bit smoother than the 144. If you are ,going three-way with a 1.5Khz crossover, I would look at the 108, smoother and goes higher.
The 18sound XT1464 does sound better than the Faital 142.
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Using a pr of drivers per box has the advantage of loading them push-push to get the advantage of active vibration cancelation so as to put much less load on the boxes.
We did test boxes with 2 SDX10s per box push-push made with 15mm BB. There were no significanr box resonance issues until the amps were well into clipping and levels were set about 10 dB above loud.
dave
This is all interesting. JKRO good luck with your project.
Not to hijack as I'm interested in this also because I'm configuring
an old donated set of speaker cabinets.
I'm not quite in the same boat as I have a much larger room to fill.
I know that I'll also have to do some measurements before I get going.
The speakers are the three ways, the room has a lot of volumn in cu^3.
Good stuff there Chris and DJK.
JKRO, to start for my project in each cabinet:
2 x Woofers: 10Hz to 250Hz
2 x MidBass: 250Hz to 2500Hz
1 x Tweeter: 2500Hz to inf
MTM at about 45 inches high.
2 x Woofers 11-inch jobs at the bottom
mounted outwards...approx 10 degrees each.
Note, that the cabinet sides aren't parallel,
with each one about 10 degrees.
The front width about 8 inches
and the rear width about 15 inches.
Don't we need fairly large volume enclosures
or what do we call it when horn itself gets
progressively larger with length?
So what to horn woofers sound like I'm sure
I've heard them...just not recently.
What type driver do you need for that, them?
I assume Faital 144 or 146?
Cheers,
Not to hijack as I'm interested in this also because I'm configuring
an old donated set of speaker cabinets.
I'm not quite in the same boat as I have a much larger room to fill.
I know that I'll also have to do some measurements before I get going.
The speakers are the three ways, the room has a lot of volumn in cu^3.
Good stuff there Chris and DJK.
JKRO, to start for my project in each cabinet:
2 x Woofers: 10Hz to 250Hz
2 x MidBass: 250Hz to 2500Hz
1 x Tweeter: 2500Hz to inf
MTM at about 45 inches high.
2 x Woofers 11-inch jobs at the bottom
mounted outwards...approx 10 degrees each.
Note, that the cabinet sides aren't parallel,
with each one about 10 degrees.
The front width about 8 inches
and the rear width about 15 inches.
Don't we need fairly large volume enclosures
or what do we call it when horn itself gets
progressively larger with length?
So what to horn woofers sound like I'm sure
I've heard them...just not recently.
What type driver do you need for that, them?
I assume Faital 144 or 146?
Cheers,
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Horn loading the woofers alone (not otherwise compensated) reduces the loads by over 85%. That's entirely due to the 15+ dB of gain that is achieved over the various direct radiating configurations shown above.
This doesn't includes the huge gain in efficiency (i.e., avoidance of compression distortion) and other reduction in B-field modulation distortion (force modulation distortion) due to zero lap voice coils.
Perhaps these sources and types of distortion are acceptable to some. I personally find that they strongly affect the resulting sound.
Chris
This doesn't includes the huge gain in efficiency (i.e., avoidance of compression distortion) and other reduction in B-field modulation distortion (force modulation distortion) due to zero lap voice coils.
Perhaps these sources and types of distortion are acceptable to some. I personally find that they strongly affect the resulting sound.
Chris
As usual you're many many steps ahead!
I've had my eye on these two drivers:
http://www.faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/datasheet.php?id=101050110
http://www.bmsspeakers.com/fileadmi...1/cones_ferrite/bms_12s330_2011-04_woofer.pdf
What do you think?
I've had my eye on these two drivers:
http://www.faitalpro.com/en/products/LF_Loudspeakers/product_details/datasheet.php?id=101050110
http://www.bmsspeakers.com/fileadmi...1/cones_ferrite/bms_12s330_2011-04_woofer.pdf
What do you think?
A quick look (it is past my bedtime).
BMS: 2 in 36 litre — estimate just over 40 Hz F10, F6 just below 50 Hz with no room gain.
Faital: 2 in 100 litre — ~42 Hz F10, f6 ~51 Hz.
Out of curiosity i checked the W14 response. 2 in 20 litres (smaller than the pictured woofer — its use assumes lots of room gain and goes lower yet) gets you just a tiny bit lower than either of the above. It would take ~16 of them to get the same Sd as one of the above, but it would give you lots of possibilities for room distribution and smooth room response.
dave
BMS: 2 in 36 litre — estimate just over 40 Hz F10, F6 just below 50 Hz with no room gain.
Faital: 2 in 100 litre — ~42 Hz F10, f6 ~51 Hz.
Out of curiosity i checked the W14 response. 2 in 20 litres (smaller than the pictured woofer — its use assumes lots of room gain and goes lower yet) gets you just a tiny bit lower than either of the above. It would take ~16 of them to get the same Sd as one of the above, but it would give you lots of possibilities for room distribution and smooth room response.
dave
Mmmmmm I've read a little on the distributed multiple sub setup. If I remember correctly instead of just exciting room modes from the two speaker locations the spread of subs does it at multiple random locations. Therefore no one mode dominates. Is that correct?
Questions:
1) Has anyone actually tried it?
2)Will this work from 150-200hz downwards?
3)Are the subs run in stereo or mono? I guess right subs run the right channel etc so I'll need an even number of subs
4) Moat subs are on the floor. Would it be beneficial to have at least one raised up to excite even more room modes?
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E.Geddes recommends three bass only speakers, in addition to the two main full range speakers.
As far as I recall they were in mono mode.
At least one was part way along another wall.
I can't see any harm in using more than three. Try to get all of them at roughly equal distances from the listening position.
As far as I recall they were in mono mode.
At least one was part way along another wall.
I can't see any harm in using more than three. Try to get all of them at roughly equal distances from the listening position.
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Both swell looking specs but the BMS has a substantially lower resonance (due mostly to have a quarter-pound moving weight). Driver resonance brackets what bottom end you will get, always has and always will.
So don't go down the sim rabbit hole that for incomprehensible reasons commands you to put the BMS in a tiny box (and the Faital in a much bigger box??).
B.
Hahaha left my iPad open with this thread when I went to attend to something. Mrs JRKO had a little read
"Big boxes yes, more boxes no!"
So back to the 2 speakers either side of the bay window
I think we left it at multiple small drivers vs single big driver with a side order of possible dual opposed push-push
"Big boxes yes, more boxes no!"
So back to the 2 speakers either side of the bay window
I think we left it at multiple small drivers vs single big driver with a side order of possible dual opposed push-push
Klipsch, volvotreter and Danley style unity horns if my memory serves. Thx Chris
I really need to cover the the from around 200hz down in one box(per side that is!). I already have the mid & high section drivers.
Are ther issues with c2c spacing if I went with an 18in driver?
Am waiting for Dave (Planet10) as I'm after more dual opposed push-push info
I really need to cover the the from around 200hz down in one box(per side that is!). I already have the mid & high section drivers.
Are ther issues with c2c spacing if I went with an 18in driver?
Am waiting for Dave (Planet10) as I'm after more dual opposed push-push info
Just found this lust worthy offering from Precision Devices
PD.184C01 - Bass Driver
Looks pretty darn good at £250 each. That's pretty low cost for PD
PD.184C01 - Bass Driver
Looks pretty darn good at £250 each. That's pretty low cost for PD
Yes, the W14 is a stand-out for cheap and good. But the trade=off is much more boa and althou i said 16 pr (32 drivers), you’d need 2 x that to get the similar volume displacement. You buy that many there is a considerable price drop (i just bought 20). And you’d need an awful lot more plywood.
This many is gettin ginto the range of making 4 woofer towers with 16 drivers in each box, placed in the corners of the room.
The point was made to make you think about what your priorities are in a woofer or subwoofer. Neither of the drivers you suggested are capable of subwoofer extension (well maybe in a BIG ML-TL or similar), but would be efficient and effective woofers in a “smallish” high efficiency system (especially in the case of the BMS).
dave
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