diyAudio

diyAudio (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/index.php)
-   Full Range (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/)
-   -   Fostex FE167E as midrange driver (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/57268-fostex-fe167e-midrange-driver.html)

dhieber 14th May 2005 05:15 PM

Fostex FE167E as midrange driver
 
Has anyone here used the Fostex FE167E as a midrange driver? I'm thinking of using it as a midrange driver in a sealed box (with baffle step correction) crossed over to a powered subwoofer at 100-150 Hz and augmented at the top end with a suitable tweeter. Since a tweeter would be used at the top and the Fostex would be reasonably inexpensive, I might consider removing the whizzer on the 167.

Dean

Timn8ter 16th May 2005 02:31 AM

Why did you select the Fostex? Are you looking for high efficiency?

qwad 16th May 2005 03:02 AM

:D WOULDNT the rs 40-1197 or fe 103 be better in mid range? rather than hack the driver around;) cheers

JWFokker 16th May 2005 06:05 AM

I have a similar scenario. I want to build a pair of three driver open baffle speakers (ie cheap Orions), and I was looking at the Fostex 167 for mids/highs and an Ascendant Atlas 12" from 100-120hz down, augmented with a good quality tweeter (FT207D maybe) from 10k up. So you think a Fostex is overkill? I was considering the 207 because it goes a bit lower than the 167, but it gets peaky above 5k. The 167 is much smoother up to 10k.

What else would you recommend in the 167's place? The 103 drops off too quickly below 200hz and the RS 40-1197 frequency response doesn't look quite as good as the 167's.

And any suggestions for quality tweeters are welcome. There are just too many to pick from for me to sort through them all. I'd considered Morel or Vifa but none of them look very good. Seas and Scanspeak on the other hand, are too rich for my blood. I take that back, the Scanspeak D2010/8513 looks pretty good but not quite as good as the FT207D. I was looking for something in the ~$50 range. I didn't really want to spend more on tweeters than my mid range.

Timn8ter 16th May 2005 12:44 PM

I like the idea of using a full/extended range driver for mid-range. Amongst the $60 models I think the CSS WR-125S is the better choice.

Ruby 3-way

GM 16th May 2005 02:16 PM

Greets!

Why? It and the other small drivers suggested have too limited a dynamic headroom for any app other than severely compressed signals (OTA TV or radio broadcasts, etc.) or in a MUZAK (background, intimate, etc.) app.

In today's digital world an audio system needs to be able to reproduce up to +30dB transient peaks in the 250-500Hz BW without clipping the amp or exceeding the driver's ~linear limits (Xmax), so with 100dB max peak capability it's limited to 70dB average playback. Even the highly compressed HT reference level requires 105dB peaks/listening position/channel, so forget most (all?) small drivers for any serious music listening/HT if not horn loaded or in multiple driver arrays.

Really, a 6.5" is too small for the intended app, and even an 8" is marginal at best, so why the better designs use two in MTM layouts and XO them when they get ~ 1 WL apart. One of the great losses in today's scaled down world IMO is the dearth of readily available, inexpensive, 10" and 12" wide BW drivers.

GM

Timn8ter 16th May 2005 03:31 PM

I've not experienced any of what you've described in my 3-way system. One of the most challenging pieces of recorded music these days is the 1812 Overture on the Telarc label. I guarantee I play it louder than 70db and I've not experienced over excursion or clipping. In fact, the cannon blasts are handled quite admirably with the Extremis handling the major part of that duty.

JWFokker 16th May 2005 09:39 PM

Is xmax that important for midrange? I plan on using Atlas 12's for 150-200hz and down. I figured I could get away with the 167's. Maybe the 207's would be a better idea? They've got 50% more surface area and 2x the xmax of the 167. I suppose I'd want to cross at 5k with an FT17H then.

I'm open to suggestions for alternatives for a midrange driver but I kinda wanted to stick with high efficiency drivers so I can power them with 2x25W Tripath amps in parallel. And of course plate amps for the Atlas'.


EDIT: Due to compusive buying habits, the 207's are on the way. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

Tweeker 17th May 2005 10:14 AM

Xmax is more important in open baffle setups. I know youve already bought the FE207, but shouldnt 2*25 watts be plenty for the WR125s, especially given powered woofers? Is that peak?

JWFokker 18th May 2005 12:29 AM

Actually I missed something rather important about the amp. It's 2x25W at 4ohms. It's only 2x14W at 8ohms. That's continuous average according to Tripath. I might have to take a step up the line to something more powerful. The 207's are rated for 30W.

I'd get the WR-125S, but they don't look like anything special. The response curve isn't too hot and they've got nothing above 10k, which makes a tweeter mandatory. Their efficiency is only average. They really look like Tang Bands with more xmax to me. I could be competely wrong though, and if it turns out that they're an exceptional driver, I'll buy a pair or two and put the 207's in a pair of really big back horns. For now I'll stick with a more familiar driver. A lot of guys like the 166/167 and 206/207, although no one has used it for open baffle yet. At any rate, if it doesn't work out, I'll know better for next time. They should arrive Friday and I'm going to order the Atlas 12's soon. Maybe 15's even, if they're still on sale.


All times are GMT. The time now is 09:04 PM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 17.65%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio

Wiki