Hi guys,
I would like to have your feedbacks regarding Hypex amps longevity / reliability / lifespan (especially UCD). Many people have encountered broke or burnt units and it seems these modules could be delicate. At this point I’m wondering if I should still stick to Hypex amps...
My own experience:
I’m using an UCD180HxR based amp since 2015 with 3 ways tower speakers (88db, 8ohms (but 3ohms minimum )). It’s a pre-assembled kit with a SMPS300R and I think everything was nicely set and wired but the supplier. I’m totally fine with this amp, sounds great, black background, plenty of power.
But I had to replace the Hypex modules two years ago, they were starting to produce more and more weird noises to a point they were not safe to use anymore. At that time, I was suspecting the amp was probably running too hot and the modules were cooked. The enclosure is not that big but I optimized the setup, found a cooler space in my rack and used better thermal paste when I replaced the modules.
2 years later, AGAIN, I’m starting to ear some weird noisy blinks when I stick my ear right on the tweeters...
I know this sound, it sounds trivial currently but it will be louder and the amp will probably be good to trash in 6 months.
UCD180 modules aren’t too expensive but if you have to change them every two years it’s still a considerable expense. Recently I was thinking about moving to UCD400 or NCore but don’t know if I can trust these modules anymore.
I have many theories in my head:
1- The load is killing my amp (3 ohms tower with probably difficult cross overs, also a sub connected in parallel). An UCD 400 could be more appropriate
2- I don’t take care of the amp properly. No fancy softstart, no heavy heatsinks, I let the amp turned on for hours even if there’s nothing playing
3- I have some king of ground loop or static in my hifi rack slowly killing the amp...
4- UCD are just fragile modules that degrade and die after 2/3 years ?
Let me know what you think
I would like to have your feedbacks regarding Hypex amps longevity / reliability / lifespan (especially UCD). Many people have encountered broke or burnt units and it seems these modules could be delicate. At this point I’m wondering if I should still stick to Hypex amps...
My own experience:
I’m using an UCD180HxR based amp since 2015 with 3 ways tower speakers (88db, 8ohms (but 3ohms minimum )). It’s a pre-assembled kit with a SMPS300R and I think everything was nicely set and wired but the supplier. I’m totally fine with this amp, sounds great, black background, plenty of power.
But I had to replace the Hypex modules two years ago, they were starting to produce more and more weird noises to a point they were not safe to use anymore. At that time, I was suspecting the amp was probably running too hot and the modules were cooked. The enclosure is not that big but I optimized the setup, found a cooler space in my rack and used better thermal paste when I replaced the modules.
2 years later, AGAIN, I’m starting to ear some weird noisy blinks when I stick my ear right on the tweeters...
I know this sound, it sounds trivial currently but it will be louder and the amp will probably be good to trash in 6 months.
UCD180 modules aren’t too expensive but if you have to change them every two years it’s still a considerable expense. Recently I was thinking about moving to UCD400 or NCore but don’t know if I can trust these modules anymore.
I have many theories in my head:
1- The load is killing my amp (3 ohms tower with probably difficult cross overs, also a sub connected in parallel). An UCD 400 could be more appropriate
2- I don’t take care of the amp properly. No fancy softstart, no heavy heatsinks, I let the amp turned on for hours even if there’s nothing playing
3- I have some king of ground loop or static in my hifi rack slowly killing the amp...
4- UCD are just fragile modules that degrade and die after 2/3 years ?
Let me know what you think
I'm relatively sure that the problem on mine is the protection circuitry not functioning quickly enough when the amplifier is run very close to its maximum operating voltage. Still this is the safe operating range so it should still work flawlessly, especially Vs a short. They are very generously heat sinked too so that isn't exactly a problem.
Yes, I will probably check the modules or somehow try to repair them but I’m not really comfortable with this idea. I have neither the skills nor the tools (no scope) to do this properly.
Many years ago I’ve repaired a Class T amp (TA3020). I took some time, did my best and replaced few components. I was very proud of me. 2 months later there was a burning smell in my living room, my left tweeter was literally melting. I put everything to trash and bought an Hypex amp.
A part of me wants to avoid problems, get rid of the UCD unit and buy a brand new NCore hoping it will be more reliable and last longer. But even on Hypex website, UCD is described as “known for its reliability and ease of use“ whereas NCore is supposed to be designed for ”extreme High-End applications”. I’m not so sure in the end
Many years ago I’ve repaired a Class T amp (TA3020). I took some time, did my best and replaced few components. I was very proud of me. 2 months later there was a burning smell in my living room, my left tweeter was literally melting. I put everything to trash and bought an Hypex amp.
A part of me wants to avoid problems, get rid of the UCD unit and buy a brand new NCore hoping it will be more reliable and last longer. But even on Hypex website, UCD is described as “known for its reliability and ease of use“ whereas NCore is supposed to be designed for ”extreme High-End applications”. I’m not so sure in the end
I changed house 3 years ago and the same way most of my hardware has changed recently (dac and music server). My gut feeling is that I just don’t take care properly of this hardware. I have two kids and I already had xlr and usb cables accidentally disconnected. There’s cable hanging around frequently. Finally there’s nothing between my dac and the amp that could protect the amp, no preamplifier, not even a potentiometer, the volume control is purely digital.
I had no major incident but it’s not a perfect environment neither…and that’s my point!
I also have a backup Rotel A/B amp from 1992 (RB-980BX). Sure it doesn’t sounds as good but it endured all sort of abuses over the years and still working fine. The same way I have never broke any Dac.
In the end I'm totally convinced by class D amps whether regarding the sound or the efficiency but I still think it’s a most vulnerable hardware in my audio system. I would be worried if I had to use them as professional or mobile equipment.
Now while I'm preparing for a future purchase (or repair) I’m wondering how much I should invest into this. Again I’m not the only one with broken UCD modules...
Could I consider any class D amp as a long term investment?
Has the reliability improved over the years (Maybe the lastest Ncore MP serie) ?
Or am I just wrong and Class D amps are just as robust as old heavy A/B amps ?
I've had a set of UCD180 modules with Hypex switching supplies, have been powered up for around 10 years almost continuously now. Never a problem. I don't often run them very loud, if that matters. I had a solidly built class AB mono amp (AudioSource 5.1) about the same time frame that got used about twice a year, died the first time its outputs got accidentally shorted through a slipped cliplead! I also had a cheap class D board (Chinese off-brand), died from failing electrolytic caps within 6 months use.
So, not really as simple as just class A/B/D.
So, not really as simple as just class A/B/D.
I have 4 channels of UCD180HG powered by Hypex SMPS playing two to six hours every day for 3 years. Never had a problem.
Moved the whole set to a nicer enclosure after one year - no problems.
This was my very first electronics project, the fact that everything worked and has been working flawlessly is a testimony to Hypex UCD quality - in my opinion.
Cheers,
Laurens
Moved the whole set to a nicer enclosure after one year - no problems.
This was my very first electronics project, the fact that everything worked and has been working flawlessly is a testimony to Hypex UCD quality - in my opinion.
Cheers,
Laurens
Pure speculation, but the reliability off a low cost powerfull SMPS was statistically inferior in 2007 than today.
IMHO these amps are ancient technology and should be putted in a museum because of their 2% of power consumption at idle that make them heat too mutch to touch even with no signal (the Hypex UcD LP Modules are coming)
Hypex Electronics B.V.
I have had only one major issue with my Hypex 400HG hxr - and may be a similar problem in all the 400 UCD series - that transistor that is bolted onto the base of the "T" heatsink, the bolt becomes loose over time, and that chip fails taking a couple components with it... do yourself a favor and make sure that bolt securing to transistor to heatsink is tight (may need an angles philips screwdriver to get at it). When I informed Hypex of the fault, they knew of the problem, and told me exactly which components to replace - so replaced the components and it is now working fine again... a shout out for their support group...
I have also had only one problem with my ICEPower amps (500A w/ linear power supply) and was totally my fault - as I was driving / stress testing my Acoustat Model 3's...they do not like that capacitive load...but then again, no Class D amps like capacitive loads.... right?
I have also had only one problem with my ICEPower amps (500A w/ linear power supply) and was totally my fault - as I was driving / stress testing my Acoustat Model 3's...they do not like that capacitive load...but then again, no Class D amps like capacitive loads.... right?
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It's not the heating that is the problem. It's the builders lack of cooling.
My UcD amps never get hotter than about 5 degrees over roomtemp.
The modules seems well designed and reliable but there is 3.6w to dissipate, even at idle.
You should perform a temperature measurement of the small white coated PCB after 2 hours at idle at 25°C.
Yes it was white, the thermal design looks like a flirt with the thermal limit.
A solid lump of aluminium is a bad heat sink.
It needs to have fins to get a better surface area.