How about something like this one:
Buy Titebond Wood Veneer Glue - 946ml online at Rutlands.co.uk
I've also read a method where you apply Titebond 2 on both surfaces, allow to dry then use an iron (don't ask the wife first) to heat the surfaces and bond them together. Apparently it is quite effective but you'd need to practice for your own application.
Buy Titebond Wood Veneer Glue - 946ml online at Rutlands.co.uk
I've also read a method where you apply Titebond 2 on both surfaces, allow to dry then use an iron (don't ask the wife first) to heat the surfaces and bond them together. Apparently it is quite effective but you'd need to practice for your own application.
I used this...
THIXOFIX-250 | Alpha Adhesives & Sealants Ltd 250 ml Can Beige Contact Adhesives Bonding Gel | RS Components
To stick some reasonably stiff Formica to some curved speaker cabinets and it worked really well. A couple of years later everything is still really well stuck down.
You don't get a spreader in the link above though.
THIXOFIX-250 | Alpha Adhesives & Sealants Ltd 250 ml Can Beige Contact Adhesives Bonding Gel | RS Components
To stick some reasonably stiff Formica to some curved speaker cabinets and it worked really well. A couple of years later everything is still really well stuck down.
You don't get a spreader in the link above though.
Also scotch weld is good enough for aircraft trim, so would probably be fine for veneer.
Cromwell Tools - Experts in Hand Tools, Power Tools and PPE
Cromwell Tools - Experts in Hand Tools, Power Tools and PPE
I've used Evo-Stik 528 for years. Evo-Stik 528 Industrial Contact Adhesive Transluscent Amber 2.5Ltr | High Strength Adhesives | Screwfix.com A finer toothed spreader is better for veneer, but the usual red one is fine for Formica.
I've used Evostick myself and it didn't seem as strong as the thixofix stuff. Although the Evo has been through formula changes over the years so who knows if what you buy today is the same as what I used.
Changes were apparently made to reduce emissions and with it bond strength suffered. I'd imagine you can't really go wrong with either.
Changes were apparently made to reduce emissions and with it bond strength suffered. I'd imagine you can't really go wrong with either.
Thanks, got a j roller on order. Waiting on a delivery of paper backed walnut veneer now.
I would stay away of contact cement (PVA-based). It has a few issues for veneering:
1. It sometimes manages to penetrate the veneer and come up to the surface
2. If you have small gaps or uneven surface the bond will be weak
3. Can react with veneers that contain tannins - like oak veneer for example - creating black/grey spots
4. Is harder to work with (veneering only) compared to polychloroprene glues
I have tried many and hide glue and polychloroprene based ones (Henkel Moment Classic) a.k.a. shoe glue works best for veneering. For joints of the wood panels - PVA all the way unless you have slight gaps, then a polyurethane glue might be better suited as it expands a little.
1. It sometimes manages to penetrate the veneer and come up to the surface
2. If you have small gaps or uneven surface the bond will be weak
3. Can react with veneers that contain tannins - like oak veneer for example - creating black/grey spots
4. Is harder to work with (veneering only) compared to polychloroprene glues
I have tried many and hide glue and polychloroprene based ones (Henkel Moment Classic) a.k.a. shoe glue works best for veneering. For joints of the wood panels - PVA all the way unless you have slight gaps, then a polyurethane glue might be better suited as it expands a little.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.