Hi !
My main system: PC/iPad>diy wm8471 dac>Yamaha AS-500 integrated amp>Magnat Monitor Supreme 1000 floor standers with 19hz-20KHz freq. response and 150W power handling with 91db sensitivity.
Secondary system: iPad/TV > Aiyima (Chinese) 50W+100W 2.1 amp > TABAQ TL speakers (DIY).
So, here is the thing ! My sister's marriage is in May and I'm supposed to set up the sound system for the party :cool. I'm planning to use my main system for this and its very loud. The issue is the amp get very hot (I'm thinking my speakers don't match with the amp) when playing loud. So, I'm thinking to use a sub to help out. The diyaudio\subwoofer members have kindly helped me with a design for the sub with a 12" driver. Now, I'm a bit confused on how to connect it.
Plan 1:
Speaker level crossover at the amp output (low pass for the sub and high pass for the speaker).
Plan 2:
Yamaha AS-500 has a dedicated sub-out (line level). So, DAC>Yamaha AS500>Subout>Sub amp>sub
But, the issue is that bass frequencies would go to both the sub as well as the floorstanders. May be I should use the built-in bass control knob on the amp to reduce the bass.
Plan 3:
Use a two way active crossover. Sub-out to the sub amp and the other one to the AS-500. There is a chance of signal degradation here.
Plan 4:
Digital DSP based crossover. Cost might be high but should have better performance ?
What you guys think ?
My main system: PC/iPad>diy wm8471 dac>Yamaha AS-500 integrated amp>Magnat Monitor Supreme 1000 floor standers with 19hz-20KHz freq. response and 150W power handling with 91db sensitivity.
Secondary system: iPad/TV > Aiyima (Chinese) 50W+100W 2.1 amp > TABAQ TL speakers (DIY).
So, here is the thing ! My sister's marriage is in May and I'm supposed to set up the sound system for the party :cool. I'm planning to use my main system for this and its very loud. The issue is the amp get very hot (I'm thinking my speakers don't match with the amp) when playing loud. So, I'm thinking to use a sub to help out. The diyaudio\subwoofer members have kindly helped me with a design for the sub with a 12" driver. Now, I'm a bit confused on how to connect it.
Plan 1:
Speaker level crossover at the amp output (low pass for the sub and high pass for the speaker).
Plan 2:
Yamaha AS-500 has a dedicated sub-out (line level). So, DAC>Yamaha AS500>Subout>Sub amp>sub
But, the issue is that bass frequencies would go to both the sub as well as the floorstanders. May be I should use the built-in bass control knob on the amp to reduce the bass.
Plan 3:
Use a two way active crossover. Sub-out to the sub amp and the other one to the AS-500. There is a chance of signal degradation here.
Plan 4:
Digital DSP based crossover. Cost might be high but should have better performance ?
What you guys think ?
Would this work for my requirement ?
Sure Electronics' webstore ADAU1701 Audio Digital Signal Processor Kernel Board
Sure Electronics' webstore ADAU1701 Audio Digital Signal Processor Kernel Board
Yup ! Thats a good idea.
But yeah, I'm intrigued by the "plan 4". That Sure electronics DSP should help to achieve it, right ?
Yeah and that particular board costs only 49USD
I'm wondering whether any diyaudio member has had any experience with that board or even with the products of Sure.
Seems like a decent company to me !
Plan 5:
Class D amp replacing your amp.
You have 19Hz (let's say a more realistic 30Hz): you DON'T need any sub.
Look at sure aa-ab32313.
About Plan 2:
I think there will be no frequency overlap, yamaha knows how to do the job.
About Plans 3 and 4:
it's more realistic that a signal degradation will be caused by the dsp instead of the analogic filters, that remain the best choice in terms of audio quality.
Look at linkwitz two ways kit boards on ebay.
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Plan 5:
Haha I don't think it can reach 19hz but yeah, I remember watching Saving Private Ryan on it and there was this scene near the end where an Axis tank crossing a bridge. The floor of my place was literally shaking like that in the movie
But there is no "chest thumping" bass on it though. It just rattles/shakes the windows, chairs and floor
That sure amp...its 2x400 W ! Isn't it an overkill ?
Plan 2:
Hmm.. the general opinion is that the sub out is just a pre-amp out with no filters. The sub would get a low passed signal but the speakers get full range signal. There isn't any high pass filter on the amp output.
Plan 2 & 3:
Thats an interesting opinion. I was thinking altering signals in the digital domain is a better ! May be I was wrong.
I saw some 2 way adjustable filters in eBay as well as Aliexpress. I'll surely check them out.
By the way can you guys recommend any decent boards on eBay ?
You may be better just bunging a big fan on your amp to keep it cool.
For my sub I use the tape out of the main amp (Yamaha AV amp) into an adjustable LPF i built (8- 50hz), this goes into a bass amp that has it's own parametric EQ so I can tweek the sound further. The LPF I built after looking at numerous articles and design's, I just tweeked an ESP circuit, it's pretty simple, two opamp buffers to sum L&R ch then a simple filter, uses a TL074.
Andy.
For my sub I use the tape out of the main amp (Yamaha AV amp) into an adjustable LPF i built (8- 50hz), this goes into a bass amp that has it's own parametric EQ so I can tweek the sound further. The LPF I built after looking at numerous articles and design's, I just tweeked an ESP circuit, it's pretty simple, two opamp buffers to sum L&R ch then a simple filter, uses a TL074.
Andy.
Dont even think about the Sure DSP. You will need month to understand it, documentation is non existing and the net full of useless information.
No step by step how to do it. Save your money.
Best would be to get a strong amp, made for "party all night long".
Maybe try to lease one for an evening. But be carefull, your Magnat speakers are HIFI and not PA. If you let them play loud for two hours, even without overloading them, they get hot (no cooling of magnet) and the voice coil will melt. Take my word, I know.
So, best, get a pair of small PA speakers with matching amp. Nothing exotic about it, just find a place where you can get such stuff for an evening.
No step by step how to do it. Save your money.
Best would be to get a strong amp, made for "party all night long".
Maybe try to lease one for an evening. But be carefull, your Magnat speakers are HIFI and not PA. If you let them play loud for two hours, even without overloading them, they get hot (no cooling of magnet) and the voice coil will melt. Take my word, I know.
So, best, get a pair of small PA speakers with matching amp. Nothing exotic about it, just find a place where you can get such stuff for an evening.
Hi Andy !
I think I need LPF for sub and HPF for the Yamaha AS-500.
If I go analog, there are a lot of cheap Chinese active crossovers with linkwitz-riley filters. May be I should try it ?
Thanks for the post Turbowatch2 !
Ok, I'll drop Sure DSP idea ! Can't afford to spend that much time on it.
We would be having a PA system for the main stage which is open. My system is for the indoors.
And yeah, after everything is over, I plan to integrate this sub with the secondary system. The amp used for the secondary system is a 2.1 but I don't trust its crossover. So, I'll try to use the same setup (active analog two way crossover) for it.
Is it ok ?
"I think I need LPF for sub and HPF for the Yamaha AS-500." As I said I just used the tape outs on my Yamaha AV-M99 amp, L/R signals go into the LPF then out into a separate amp for the sub. Not sure why you'd need a HPF, think your getting confused. Your IP to your sub isn't out of the speaker OP of your main amp, you only need a line level signal, though this means you need an amp for the sub.
BTW, before you build a sub, look at the projects on Rod Elliot's site, I built a fecking great sub 4 foot high, 3 feet wide and 2 1/2deep using an 18" woofer, Rod built a design where cab size is greatly reduced, bit like the REL subs.
If you want the details of the LPF I built, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send it you. It's very simple using standard value parts like 10k R's and 0.1u caps for instance, no need for 82n caps or 1k95 R's. It does involve building a small split rail PSU and circuit board though you could do the latter on perf board. See pic.
Andy.
BTW, before you build a sub, look at the projects on Rod Elliot's site, I built a fecking great sub 4 foot high, 3 feet wide and 2 1/2deep using an 18" woofer, Rod built a design where cab size is greatly reduced, bit like the REL subs.
If you want the details of the LPF I built, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send it you. It's very simple using standard value parts like 10k R's and 0.1u caps for instance, no need for 82n caps or 1k95 R's. It does involve building a small split rail PSU and circuit board though you could do the latter on perf board. See pic.
Andy.
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