Hello everyone,
I've been using dacmagic plus for about 4 years, however I bought it used so I don't know how old is it. Since last 3-4 weeks it does'nt work properly. When I turn it on and when there is a input signal, it only produces a noise. When it happened for the first time I let it on for 15 minutes and selected an empty input, then I selected my usb input again and turned it off and on. It started to work properly. But when I turn it off again it made the same thing. Now waiting 15 minutes or even longer such as 24 hours doesn't work, it only produces high pitch noise. I tried different inputs as well, usb-PC, optical-PS4, Bluetooth-Phone but the result was same.
So I think some caps went off but I have no idea. If it is something like that I can solder new caps but I don't know how should I tackle this problem. It would be great if someone could help? Thanks in advance.
Here is a video of what happens:
YouTube
I've been using dacmagic plus for about 4 years, however I bought it used so I don't know how old is it. Since last 3-4 weeks it does'nt work properly. When I turn it on and when there is a input signal, it only produces a noise. When it happened for the first time I let it on for 15 minutes and selected an empty input, then I selected my usb input again and turned it off and on. It started to work properly. But when I turn it off again it made the same thing. Now waiting 15 minutes or even longer such as 24 hours doesn't work, it only produces high pitch noise. I tried different inputs as well, usb-PC, optical-PS4, Bluetooth-Phone but the result was same.
So I think some caps went off but I have no idea. If it is something like that I can solder new caps but I don't know how should I tackle this problem. It would be great if someone could help? Thanks in advance.
Here is a video of what happens:
YouTube
Sounds like it might be switching power supply noise. You might try measuring the voltages inside and see what you find.
Other than that, I listened to a Dacmagic + once and did not like the sound at all. Depending on what you use if for, you might be well served by just replacing it, IMHO only, of course.
Other than that, I listened to a Dacmagic + once and did not like the sound at all. Depending on what you use if for, you might be well served by just replacing it, IMHO only, of course.
You can download the circuit diagram from here:
Download the Cambridge Audio DacMagic manuals for free - Hifi Manuals
You did not say what input is in use when you get the noise...? SP/DIF or USB, or both.
If it is on both, the problem is in either the power supply rails (Dc-DC converter chip failing, or voltage regulators failing, and working correctly after they warm-up... maybe a cold solder joins), or the clock signal squaring/buffering/distribution chip failure - U14, 74VHC14.
You could trace the fault quite successfully with an oscilloscope and the circuit diagram...
"I tried different inputs as well, usb-PC, optical-PS4, Bluetooth-Phone but the result was same."
I tried every input I can (bluetooth dongle, optical, usb. I don't have something with coax output)
Easiest thing to do is changing the power supply I guess, but the plug size is a bit unorthodox. If this doesn't work I'll try tracing the fault. Sad thing is opening up dacmagic is not the easiest thing. And it seems like re-assembling it will be even harder.
I tried every input I can (bluetooth dongle, optical, usb. I don't have something with coax output)
Easiest thing to do is changing the power supply I guess, but the plug size is a bit unorthodox. If this doesn't work I'll try tracing the fault. Sad thing is opening up dacmagic is not the easiest thing. And it seems like re-assembling it will be even harder.
Same problem here. Tried a different amp and different cables--same problem.
This is my third Cambridge Audio product to die suddenly--Sonata CD30 CD player (after 3 years), Sonata AR30 receiver (after 7 years) and now the DacMagic Plus (after 7 years)--in total, probably a couple thousand $$ at the original prices I paid.
When my AR30 died--with a poof of smoke--I contacted Cambridge Audio, and I was advised to send it to a third party repair facility (PanurgyOEM), who would charge me an evaluation fee of $65. I checked out PanurgyOEM and saw it had a bunch of very negative reviews--so I put the AR-30 on a shelf in my workroom, and I'll likely move it to the trash in the near future.
Fortunately when the DacMagic died yesterday I remembered I had a Scarlett that I used previously for recording. It also has a DAC and so I hooked it up--and it sounded great--better than the DacMagic. So the DacMagic will be joining my AR30 in the basement.
I won't be buying any more Cambridge Audio products.
This is my third Cambridge Audio product to die suddenly--Sonata CD30 CD player (after 3 years), Sonata AR30 receiver (after 7 years) and now the DacMagic Plus (after 7 years)--in total, probably a couple thousand $$ at the original prices I paid.
When my AR30 died--with a poof of smoke--I contacted Cambridge Audio, and I was advised to send it to a third party repair facility (PanurgyOEM), who would charge me an evaluation fee of $65. I checked out PanurgyOEM and saw it had a bunch of very negative reviews--so I put the AR-30 on a shelf in my workroom, and I'll likely move it to the trash in the near future.
Fortunately when the DacMagic died yesterday I remembered I had a Scarlett that I used previously for recording. It also has a DAC and so I hooked it up--and it sounded great--better than the DacMagic. So the DacMagic will be joining my AR30 in the basement.
I won't be buying any more Cambridge Audio products.
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I have the same issue but it only happens once in few weeks and only after I shut it off.
What is the voltage across this capacitor (C148) after the change?
I measured 1.2V and the same for the 100uf 25V C180 capcitor.
Thanks
Attachments
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With - surprise! - a capacitor ESR meter. 
Mind you, buying one of those would get you a whole bunch of caps, so unless you do this sort of stuff on a regular basis getting one may not be worth it.
You can try connecting a known-good similar cap in parallel for testing purposes, although that's generally easier to do with through-hole caps and may be a bit fiddly here, not to mention lead inductance. It's worth a shot.
1.2 V sounds like digital supply, maybe for the DSP and/or the XMOS chip nearby. High ESR on that would be likely to make the whole thing hiccup.
Mind you, buying one of those would get you a whole bunch of caps, so unless you do this sort of stuff on a regular basis getting one may not be worth it.You can try connecting a known-good similar cap in parallel for testing purposes, although that's generally easier to do with through-hole caps and may be a bit fiddly here, not to mention lead inductance. It's worth a shot.
1.2 V sounds like digital supply, maybe for the DSP and/or the XMOS chip nearby. High ESR on that would be likely to make the whole thing hiccup.
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With - surprise! - a capacitor ESR meter.
You can try connecting a known-good similar cap in parallel for testing purposes, although that's generally easier to do with through-hole caps and may be a bit fiddly here, not to mention lead inductance. It's worth a shot.
1.2 V sounds like digital supply, maybe for the DSP and/or the XMOS chip nearby. High ESR on that would be likely to make the whole thing hiccup.
Thanks
At beginning mine was same. Only appeared when I turned device off. Ill give this capacitor change a try.
While I trying to desolder c148 I messed it up and broke the pad. Now I want to solder a cap by wire. So I need to know where does c148 connect. I try to check Dacmagic service manual and it doesnt belong to dacmagic+.
C148 of dacmagic+ is 470u 16V. Dacmagic has 6 capacitor valued as 470u 16v and all of them belongs to digital inputs. So I couldn't find a cap that I can relate to. How should I proceed?
C148 of dacmagic+ is 470u 16V. Dacmagic has 6 capacitor valued as 470u 16v and all of them belongs to digital inputs. So I couldn't find a cap that I can relate to. How should I proceed?
I took some pictures of the board.
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Here it can be seen the two pads of c148. broken pad does not show any tracing near so I guess it goes other side of the board. Do I have to remove board completely? Because of the knob placements it seem hard to do for me. What would be your suggestion? If I knew where does c148 connect then it would have been easy to insert jumper wire.
https://i.imgur.com/yCksMH4.jpg
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Here it can be seen the two pads of c148. broken pad does not show any tracing near so I guess it goes other side of the board. Do I have to remove board completely? Because of the knob placements it seem hard to do for me. What would be your suggestion? If I knew where does c148 connect then it would have been easy to insert jumper wire.
https://i.imgur.com/yCksMH4.jpg
So I removed the board to take a look.
I marked three little dots with a red circle. When I flipped the board I marked down the same three dots. I guess its path from upperside of the board to down.
Does this mean the broken pad of the c148 does connect to ground? is it ok If I connect it to any grounded part on the board?
I would really appreciate if someone could help because I want to assemble the unit as soon as I can so that I wouldn't forget which screw goes where.
I marked three little dots with a red circle. When I flipped the board I marked down the same three dots. I guess its path from upperside of the board to down.
Does this mean the broken pad of the c148 does connect to ground? is it ok If I connect it to any grounded part on the board?
I would really appreciate if someone could help because I want to assemble the unit as soon as I can so that I wouldn't forget which screw goes where.
Update: I scraped small piece from the back and soldered a jumper wire. Then I checked if the three dots on top of the board connected to the place I scraped and dmm beeped so it is connected. I checked negative side of 100u 25v cap and other 470u cap they all seem connected so I assume all three caps negative side connected to the ground.
So I replaced the c148 with new capacitor and powered it up. Failure. Dacmagic now doesnt show any input. Normally input selection leds cycles up 1-2 time at startup. Now it doesnt stop cycling. I don't know what does that mean. I checked voltage levels on caps. c148 show around 1.2V. Other 470uF cap shows around 5V. 100u cap shows 6mV. Something seems wrong with the 100u cap. I changed it as well with new one but nothing changed. If I remove caps and power device up same thing happens, led cycles forever.