Big Speaker Project, 18” + 10” + CD/horn, super tweeter
Rebuilding my Ekta Grande’s and ScanSpeak subwoofers didn’t satisfy my need to build something.
I’m really excited about the overall improvements in sound from the changes, and this build does not indicate unhappiness, but I really want to build a BIG speaker, just to say I did, if for no other reason.
Within reason, I’m not planning on cutting any expenses or time. I have ordered most of the crossover parts from Jantzen and the drivers (except for the super tweeters) from Lean in the UK. Drivers track delivery next Wednesday, no tracking yet from Jantzen.
Big drivers take a big cabinet. 42” x 26” x 18” (H x W x D), all 1” material, double milled Medex for the painted parts, Maple veneer/Baltic Birch for the others. Maple hardwood frame, plenty of bracing.
After the fun and success of the new Hypex Fusion FA501 plate amp for my subs I’ll be using the FA502’s here. One channel for the MTT and the other for the 18”. There will be 4 sets of binding posts so I can use jumpers to choose full Active, partial Active, bi-amp from outside source, single outside amp. Versatile.
Been scribbling notes all day to give to my CNC friend to input and cut stuff up. All good fun.
Cabinet design will be somewhat simple, going for elegant, understated, and not a copy of anything I’ve seen before. For sure nothing that looks like a transformer that may come alive and come get me in the night!
I made an outline/template and have had laying on the floor for a couple days to get a feel for the size. My wife told me to go for it, so one hurdle out of the way!
Hi Coast to coast.
What crossover frequencies are you thinking of using ?
What is the upper usable limit of the 10" ...
... & the lower usable limit of the compression driver in particular.
Are the drivers a close dB/Watt match for each other ?
Have you got the dB/Watt @ 1 Meter specs. for the 4 drivers ?
Integrating the power levels of the 4 different drivers ...
... & finding the best X-over point between the 10" & C.D. is a brain teaser.
TOPIC: Edge diffraction effects on large front baffles:
Earl Geddes measurements show value to cutting large radius quarter rounds on all baffle edges. Review his SUMMA speaker literature.
" Originally Posted by Patrick Bateman ---
A couple of things have been vexxing me lately:
1) If you put a *significant* roundover on a cabinet, the polars get measurably better. Here's an 18Sound XT1086 with and without a roundover. In particular, notice the improvement in the midrange. "
The Preference for Direct Radiators
Watch this thread for additional measurements and discussion.
Just getting started, but I have a plan.
One question I can answer is that the points of crossover are 200, 1300 and 9000 Hz.
" One question I can answer is that the points of crossover are 200, 1300 and 9000 Hz "
Hi Coast To Coast. :D
I haven't studied the driver specs. or anything ... :o
... but can you say why ? you chose those frequencies ?
My intuitive feeling would be to try and get ...
the 200 lower
the 1300 higher
& the 9000 higher
Mmm ... :eek:
I'm an amateur, who doesn't like scarring bats ... :rolleyes:
... hates subwoofers ... :mad:
... & loves 3 KHz crossover points though ! ;)
Hi Coast to coast.
This system you is going to build looks like a copy of this speaker from Troels.G
why not buy the original crossover ..it is not cheap but make the speaker play like a whole ...and it sound very well
... He states the low X-over point as 200 Hz
... Then a low pass at 1300 Hz & high pass at 5000 Hz
( I guess you could say the X-over point is average 3150 Hz ? )
SCARRY speakers ! ... Candidate for 'The Maxell Man' award for sure !!!
The speaker you're looking at making is very similar to what's already been done. Take hints from someone that's done a lot of hard work for you!
If you do not know...i have build The Loudspeaker
and very happy with them
I wanted to build JBL 43xx clones for a long time. When the realization that original drivers were getting scarce and expensive, alternatives became realistic choices.
Two things occurred to me. One was that the designer of those big speakers had moved on, and his personal stereo used totally different arrangements. The second was that an individual who had some big 43xx had opined that now a similar performing speaker could be pulled off in a 3 way using the SEOS waveguide. Surely a few things have changed over time that allow us to do things a little differently than the old way.
When I found Troels The Loudspeaker, I got excited. Here was a speaker using modern drivers and designed using modern tools and parts, surely it has to be an improvement on the old design, no? I was a bit shocked to see he went 4 way, but Troels' forte is crossover design, so of course he won't make any compromises.
Since you've essentially ordered the drivers he used, I would take it in that direction. I feel like crossover design is the sword I will fall on when it comes time for me to build my speaker. Having that figured out would allow you to focus on the finish work, and there is no shame in not designing your crossover if your speaker sounds great in the end and looks the part. If those drivers were in my budget, I'd be all over The Loudspeaker.
Not only that, but there are already members who have built them here. Having them and possibly Troels able to advise would be nothing short of awesome, and something some of us wish we had when taking on our own projects.
Regardless of how you take this, I think it's awesome you're doing it, and look forward to your progress.
|All times are GMT. The time now is 10:14 PM.|
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 17.65%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2019 diyAudio