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a3cervo 16th April 2018 07:13 AM

Question about MarkAudio enclosure

I recently received a pair of Pluvia 7 drivers & I'd like to know if it is a drop-in for the FH lite enclosure.


zman01 16th April 2018 08:01 AM

Hi a3cervo,

The Pluvia 7 should work in the FH Mk3.

AFAIK the FH Lite is for smaller (approx 3") drivers.

a3cervo 16th April 2018 08:34 AM

Thanks zman01,looking at the plans for the FH Mk3 now. Also checking out this enclosure:

I want to know the advantage of the FH Mk3 over this compact floorstander. Which brings out better mids/lows etc.


zman01 16th April 2018 09:22 AM

Hi Anton,

I think P10 and Chrisb would be ones who can comment on that from first hand experience. :)

From what I can extrapolate from my experience with the FH3 and P10 Mar-Ken cabs with Alpair 7.3, CHR-70.2, and EL-70 installed is that the FH3 had more presence in the lower frequencies, and a deeper 3D sound stage; the Mini-Onkens I tried were all book-shelf/stand-mount designs - those had very good bass articulation and imaging.

The floor-standing design you have included in your post looks like a nice, simple build. And has a very compact footprint.

planet10 16th April 2018 09:25 AM

FH3 was the 1st enclosure we put P7 into. It works fine.

The FH3 will provide better performance than the CFS. The Compact Floorstander’s biggest benefit is that it is compact — 2 and a half CFS fit into the FH3 footprint.. It is the prime size miniOnken morped into a floorstander.

The Pluvia 7 is a drop-in or near drop-in for EL70 enclosures.


a3cervo 16th April 2018 09:38 AM

Zman01 - thanks again, I know you have built more than a few speakers based on MA drivers so your feedback means a lot. A friend of mine has the Alpair 10.3M in FHXL and it does sound really good, I especially like the articulate mids/low mids.

Dave - thanks for chiming in. I always appreciate your input. I am a fair-to-decent woodworker, can the FH3/FHXL be done without CNC? I will be using BBply for the enclosure.


planet10 16th April 2018 06:58 PM

Yes it can, the prototypes got made that way and many have been built without, i expect considerably more than have been built with CNC assistance, and even if you have a CNC that i snot sufficient to cut a pair. Chris gives some tips in one of the main FH3 threads.


chrisb 16th April 2018 11:13 PM

Anton - as Dave says CNC is not mandatory. Iíd probably still dado the bottom, front and tops - at least on one side -that way the second side should fit nicely square, and use pocket screws to attach the slanted back panel and internal divider. Iíve just never been that lucky with laying out biscuits or dowels by hand on shapes like these.

Take the time to prepare an MDF pattern for the curved sides - an oscillating spindle sander, or the nose end of wide-belt edge sander can do a pretty good job of fairing the large curve. Cut the plywood slabs for the sides slightly oversize on band saw or jigsaw, clamp the MDF pattern to work piece, then use your router bit of choice to finish off.
Of course, if youíre a real artisan, you might be able to get a perfect curve with jig saw, but Iím not that, and the CNC was right there on the shop floor. I think Iím gonna miss that thing almost as much as Dave.

a3cervo 17th April 2018 11:09 AM

Thanks Dave and Chris! Studying the plans for the FH3 and I am grateful that you included sheet cutting plans and guidelines how to tackle the large curve. And even though I am far from being an artisan of woodworking, I will give this daunting task a try :D:D

I will search for the FH3 threads to get some more tips. Again, thank you both for the help, much appreciated.


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