Hello,
Recently, I have had to order in a stereo pot for my ClassA Techinics receiver. The order will arrive in the store in about a week, and I'm getting very anxious to tackle the PCB with my soldering iron. I've looked at the capacitors, transformer and such, such that I can sweeten up the sound. I know that the receiver makes use of a solid-state transformer--considering it's LARGE size and HEAVY weight (about 10lbs.). Anyway, I can give up any info that you'd like except for things that I probably would've posted already. For example, I don't have a service manual nor do I have any schematics.
TIA, Brodey.
Recently, I have had to order in a stereo pot for my ClassA Techinics receiver. The order will arrive in the store in about a week, and I'm getting very anxious to tackle the PCB with my soldering iron. I've looked at the capacitors, transformer and such, such that I can sweeten up the sound. I know that the receiver makes use of a solid-state transformer--considering it's LARGE size and HEAVY weight (about 10lbs.). Anyway, I can give up any info that you'd like except for things that I probably would've posted already. For example, I don't have a service manual nor do I have any schematics.
TIA, Brodey.
play nice now richie.richie00boy said:
What is it you want to accomplish? 'Sweeter' sound?
First off get the manual, or you're just fiddling in the dark. Then, if you want to tweak, perhaps look at replacing the old electrolytics.
(BTW, forget about messing with the transformer unless you are anxious to turn this unit into 'that thing in the basement that hasn't worked for 10 years')
Hi,
My goal is to improve the sound, overall, by replacing current components. I read a thread here, where someone 'sweetened' up the sound of his Nikko (or something) amplifier by changing op-amps and such. I'm pretty sure I don't have any of the usual 6- or 8- pin (I forget), op-amps. The only amplifier IC, that I can see is this LARGE piece...I'll post up later with more info..
Thank you for the suggestions...
Oh yeah, I'm in the dark, no manual...in fact I can find a lot of newer Technics receiver mods and such, but not for my version.
My goal is to improve the sound, overall, by replacing current components. I read a thread here, where someone 'sweetened' up the sound of his Nikko (or something) amplifier by changing op-amps and such. I'm pretty sure I don't have any of the usual 6- or 8- pin (I forget), op-amps. The only amplifier IC, that I can see is this LARGE piece...I'll post up later with more info..
Thank you for the suggestions...
Oh yeah, I'm in the dark, no manual...in fact I can find a lot of newer Technics receiver mods and such, but not for my version.
Bose(o) said:
well, just a word of caution:
1) what the other person considered "sweet" may or may not be sweet to you at all. sound is quite subjective.
2) what the other person perceived to be "sweet" sound may or may not have existed in his/her system at all. People hear things all the time because we simply wanted to hear a difference, a better sound as return for our labor or money spent.
Hello Bose(o),
Does this unit have discreet output transistors? It sounds to me like it might have a big old STK module. If this is the case I would not do much more than cleaning the amps controls with some Nutrol.
If you do have an STK module as your driver/output section, you may want to look for an older discrete output piece to upgrade (Akai, Sansui, Rotel, NAD, HK etc.).
Good luck.
Kevin Lee
Does this unit have discreet output transistors? It sounds to me like it might have a big old STK module. If this is the case I would not do much more than cleaning the amps controls with some Nutrol.
If you do have an STK module as your driver/output section, you may want to look for an older discrete output piece to upgrade (Akai, Sansui, Rotel, NAD, HK etc.).
Good luck.
Kevin Lee
Yup, nice large STK as it goes....SVI 3205 is the code marked on the package.
Wouldn't there be different power requirements for different STKs?
hmm...the LMs...possible, but slightly difficult...I'm guessing that I'd have to buy a seperate circuit board and run the wires as they correspond to the PCB. I may also need a new heatsink...though, I'd guess the current amp IC is fine.
Wouldn't there be different power requirements for different STKs?
hmm...the LMs...possible, but slightly difficult...I'm guessing that I'd have to buy a seperate circuit board and run the wires as they correspond to the PCB. I may also need a new heatsink...though, I'd guess the current amp IC is fine.
whoops...I meant to say the current amp IC's heatsink would be fine for two LM3886s.
"nice." hmm...guess not eh? STKs must be really nasty, considering I can't find too much of anything on the net about STK, replacements and such.
so, now the project becomes...REPLACING STK WITH TWO LM3886s.
I'm just going to poke around the net for a bit more...any links to 3886 projects, STK-pin sheets (I need those so, I'm not totally in the dark about how I should connect my possible LMs. would be great...thank you!
"nice." hmm...guess not eh? STKs must be really nasty, considering I can't find too much of anything on the net about STK, replacements and such.
so, now the project becomes...REPLACING STK WITH TWO LM3886s.
I'm just going to poke around the net for a bit more...any links to 3886 projects, STK-pin sheets (I need those so, I'm not totally in the dark about how I should connect my possible LMs. would be great...thank you!
Bose(o)...
Leave the originals in place. Properly implemented IC outputs can and DO sound quite good. Perhaps not as good as the best discrete outputs, but I'd venture to say the replacing with the 3886's would be a step backwards.
If you really really want to turn this into a project, then get the manual and look look it over for places to 'tweak'...but grandiose plans of replacing output modules or transformers will end in disaster for the unit...so keep it basic.
Leave the originals in place. Properly implemented IC outputs can and DO sound quite good. Perhaps not as good as the best discrete outputs, but I'd venture to say the replacing with the 3886's would be a step backwards.
If you really really want to turn this into a project, then get the manual and look look it over for places to 'tweak'...but grandiose plans of replacing output modules or transformers will end in disaster for the unit...so keep it basic.
Ahhh...there we go, thanks for the link echo. Also, what would I be looking at for the tweaking process? Simply changing components to 'exotic' ones? or....whatever.
But, one more question. Would, say, changing some of the caps, resistors and such improve sound? I know a toroidal transformer usually "sounds" better than most others. I also know that there are exotic types of capacitors that use bamboo and oils, etc.
But, one more question. Would, say, changing some of the caps, resistors and such improve sound? I know a toroidal transformer usually "sounds" better than most others. I also know that there are exotic types of capacitors that use bamboo and oils, etc.
The problem you will run into if you decide to use the real exotic caps is size...there is likely not enough room on the board.
Here's how I approach it...
Power supply caps for the regulated sections, and DC-bypass caps are all replaced with Panasonic FC caps from Digikey. Caps that are actually in series with the signal path are replaced with Panasonic ECWF(B) series metalized polypropylene up to values of about 4.7µf if there is room. If not, I either put in a Panasonic FC cap, or if I want to spend a few bucks more, I'll use a BlackGate 'N' series cap, or maybe a BG 'C' series. Any bipolar is also examined to see if I can fit a metal polypro cap, and if not, a BlackGate 'N' series cap goes in. This scheme works pretty well and I can get all except the BlackGates at Digikey.
If I decide to replace the big expensive high-current power supply caps, I'll use whatever fits (Usually means a Nichicon from Michael Percy).
End result is always very good. You can spend more, but it's a case of diminishing returns.
Here's how I approach it...
Power supply caps for the regulated sections, and DC-bypass caps are all replaced with Panasonic FC caps from Digikey. Caps that are actually in series with the signal path are replaced with Panasonic ECWF(B) series metalized polypropylene up to values of about 4.7µf if there is room. If not, I either put in a Panasonic FC cap, or if I want to spend a few bucks more, I'll use a BlackGate 'N' series cap, or maybe a BG 'C' series. Any bipolar is also examined to see if I can fit a metal polypro cap, and if not, a BlackGate 'N' series cap goes in. This scheme works pretty well and I can get all except the BlackGates at Digikey.
If I decide to replace the big expensive high-current power supply caps, I'll use whatever fits
(Usually means a Nichicon from Michael Percy).End result is always very good. You can spend more, but it's a case of diminishing returns.
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