I'm not sure if I'm over stepping boundaries, if that's the case please delete this no feelings will be hurt here. I have my mind on a used miller & kreisel subwoofer and have a couple questions about this particular model, searching didn't help me with specifics. I'd be happy to discuss with anyone having some knowledge on them via pm. I plan on building my own subs but am being a little impatient wanting to try a sealed system with some infinite baffles that are new to me.
I once had the M&K Volkswoofer 3B, bought new in 1983, sold it to a friend in about 1995. I think he eventually got it re-coned since it did have the ghastly foam suspension. I thought it sounded great. I've since built several clones of it, with better drivers and external electronics. Active EQ and a closed box design is by far the best way to go in my opinion, for a Hi-Fi system.
Foam seems to self disintegrate after about 10-15 years from my experience. Significantly faster if sunlight hits on it regularly. I've never seen rubber surrounds have any problem with age. Since the M&K is a closed box design, and uses heavy active EQ ahead of the poweramp to get an acoustically relatively flat response down to 25HZ, you could probably replace the woofer driver with a Peerless approximate equivalent driver and get very similar results performance wise. The peerless driver is probably better than the stock driver and has rubber suspension and possibly a well vented spider and/or pole piece, or just get the original driver re-coned but may also be foam suspension.
Foam seems to self disintegrate after about 10-15 years from my experience. Significantly faster if sunlight hits on it regularly. I've never seen rubber surrounds have any problem with age. Since the M&K is a closed box design, and uses heavy active EQ ahead of the poweramp to get an acoustically relatively flat response down to 25HZ, you could probably replace the woofer driver with a Peerless approximate equivalent driver and get very similar results performance wise. The peerless driver is probably better than the stock driver and has rubber suspension and possibly a well vented spider and/or pole piece, or just get the original driver re-coned but may also be foam suspension.
I've been putting together a small music system, foams were gone on the closed speakers I'm using with that. Its likely why they were free. I repaired them, the bass they make sounds exceptional. I can't seem to get either of my open box subs to blend in and sound quite right with them. Not because they sound bad, they sound different.
You need to describe both set ups for 1. upper frequency and 2. lower frequency, with dimensions (including front baffle and/or net volume) and type of speakers OB in this case for #1 or fullrange. The same for the sub LF speaker with make and model for the loudspeaker drivers in both instances and the crossovers used in your case.
If posting in diyAudio try to give maximum information, for the forum, with also the size of your room.
If posting in diyAudio try to give maximum information, for the forum, with also the size of your room.
I want accurate musical sub power for HIFI only, yes closed design. Would the EQ in dayton's SPA500 be "heavy enough" to get the job done? I narrowed my choice down to this plate, but it isn't cast in stone. I would like to have something similar to the V-125, only a version on a few performance enhancers. Pretty straight forward in terms of cabinetry, I think. I read page after page of good things about the musicality and accuracy of M&K subs. I would like to duplicate this sound. I also need some guidance choosing an appropriate driver. Nothing crazy, 12" 200-250w(?), 250$ range. I'm thinking it should be enough inside 11.5x15.5 x7.5H room with a sealed exterior door and double sheet drywall. I don't need to feel the music as much as I like to hear it. But sometimes that's nice too.
I had an inexpensive Sony sub that did an excellent job. It was powered and got rave reviews on several sites. Most people modded theirs with more sound deadening and re-coated the woofer cone. You could spend tons on a highly regarded model and be disappointed, so take the time to listen before laying down the cash. Most people don't really need a sub with good speakers, unless you want those very lows for some violent movies or games.
The entry mk aren't costing tons, and I would try to listen before buying. Same goes for everything. But that's a little difficult to do with diy. I've owned about a half dozen subs, and did hang on to a couple I like. I'm using speakers that sound good to me, rated down to 45hz. In room I can not say. With a vintage classe seventy they do a good job with bass, they absolutely love kick drum. I don't need a sub no, but I want one. If I can replicate this sound through a sub with more impact I will be very happy.
Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Co | 295-512
Tang Band WQ-1858 12" Aluminum Subwoofer | 264-897
Dayton Audio RSS315HFA-8 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm | 295-445
The Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax needs a bigger box >65L (net) with QTC = 0.883.
MK Sound | Professional Loudspeakers | Home Loudspeakers | Home Theater Sound Systems
Dayton Audio SPA500 500W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
Tang Band WQ-1858 12" Aluminum Subwoofer | 264-897
Dayton Audio RSS315HFA-8 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm | 295-445
The Dayton Audio UM12-22 12" Ultimax needs a bigger box >65L (net) with QTC = 0.883.
Be aware that many subwoofers are EQ, with smaller boxes and more power (more distortion).
MK Sound | Professional Loudspeakers | Home Loudspeakers | Home Theater Sound Systems
Dayton Audio SPA500 500W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
I couldn't find a plate I liked that did everything I wanted, I declined a purchase on one after reading every other review saying it pops through your subs upon power up. Then I was looking into rythmic and at the time an m&k K9 popped up which doesn't seem to happens very often with m&k stuff. I actually jumped on a pair seller failed to mention there was two . He offered me a price I couldn't refuse so I took them home. They sound pretty good considering they need better set up. But you can tell they have some good healthy punch. I might make a couple iso plats, I like what they did for my ported beast. I'll have to do some sampling first.
. He offered me a price I couldn't refuse so I took them home. They sound pretty good considering they need better set up. But you can tell they have some good healthy punch. I might make a couple iso plats, I like what they did for my ported beast. I'll have to do some sampling first.Attachments
M&K Sound subs
They also have the Push-Pull Series in their catalog.
http://www.mksound.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XSERIESBROCHURE.pdf
They also have the Push-Pull Series in their catalog.
http://www.mksound.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XSERIESBROCHURE.pdf
Attachments
They also have the Push-Pull Series in their catalog.
http://www.mksound.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/XSERIESBROCHURE.pdf
I had read good things about the older x250 thats what lead me onto their subs in the first place. The push pull look very nice and they should be for what they cost. Even these tiny little 8's retailed for over 500 a piece each in US currency 6 years ago. But they seem well made, the amps show quality too. They sound tight and deliver more than enough for this room. I got them blending in inside monitors L&R position about 1 /1/2' from wall. Now I'm going to lock myself in this room with a case of cold beer, they can report me missing.
Post #14 doesn't impress me (they look like some DIY trashy Visaton drivers very possible to clone), post#13 does. Sorry I'm in my late hours, already had my beer and it's almost morning... listening to Jazz
"And black dye works well."
But the raised screen printing can be seen on close inspection. I've used a lot of Kiwi brand black shoe dye on cones, but usually scuff/sand the dustcap and put on two layers of Krylon (if I don't want print-through).
http://www.shoecaresupplies.com/Shoe_Dye_p/kiwi-leather-dye.htm
But the raised screen printing can be seen on close inspection. I've used a lot of Kiwi brand black shoe dye on cones, but usually scuff/sand the dustcap and put on two layers of Krylon (if I don't want print-through).
http://www.shoecaresupplies.com/Shoe_Dye_p/kiwi-leather-dye.htm
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