so i was not planning on hitting the swap meet, but what the hey, why not right?
passed this junk booth, of which most are, just junk, and spied this amp. asked the seller what he wanted and he told me 30 bucks. i walked on that.
so i decided to swing by and offer 20 for it. he comes back with 25 and i told him no, wasn't going any higher than 20 as i was pretty damn sure that it was going to be a repair job next on the list of repairs that are now stacking up.
anyways, so i get this doorstop home and remove the cover and WOW!!
(i just love looking at all the thru-hole components)
turns out the amp was manufactured in 1994.
mr perry, i'm going to possibly beg for some help in component i.d.'s as it looks like a few zeners took a nice hit.
so, on to the pix:
passed this junk booth, of which most are, just junk, and spied this amp. asked the seller what he wanted and he told me 30 bucks. i walked on that.
so i decided to swing by and offer 20 for it. he comes back with 25 and i told him no, wasn't going any higher than 20 as i was pretty damn sure that it was going to be a repair job next on the list of repairs that are now stacking up.
anyways, so i get this doorstop home and remove the cover and WOW!!
(i just love looking at all the thru-hole components)
turns out the amp was manufactured in 1994.
mr perry, i'm going to possibly beg for some help in component i.d.'s as it looks like a few zeners took a nice hit.
so, on to the pix:
Attachments
Nice Dead-Zed I have one just like it an Opti2500,same board. I got mine free but would have paid $30.00 for it,so you got a pretty good deal.
One piece of advise.Make sure you have a good iron. For some reason when these boards burn they burn bad,and traces almost always have to be repaired because of the damage it recieved or from trying to remove bad components. Especially the mosfet power supply drivers traces.
My amp is still broken I have a pile of amps that need to be repaired that will give me less trouble. Maybe we can work together on this one.
One piece of advise.Make sure you have a good iron. For some reason when these boards burn they burn bad,and traces almost always have to be repaired because of the damage it recieved or from trying to remove bad components. Especially the mosfet power supply drivers traces.
My amp is still broken I have a pile of amps that need to be repaired that will give me less trouble. Maybe we can work together on this one.
I agree. For sensitivity to heat, these boards are probably the worst that I've seen.
Suggestions (applies to ALL components being desoldered):
Set the iiron to no higher than ~750°F.
* Clip the leads and remove each one individually.
* Apply heat to the side of the board that has the most copper for the connection being desoldered.
* Never let the tip of the iron actually touch the solder pad. Heat the lead, not the pad. When desoldering the via, have enough solder to allow you to heat the solder without touching the solder pad.
* If there are burrs on the ends of the component leads (from when they were trimmed during production), clip the leads with a pair of sharp flush cutters so the burr doesn't pull the via.
I don't have the value for the zeners in this amp. If we can't determine the values, I may be able to borrow a 2500 to check the values.
Were there 2 versions of the 500.2? The 500.2 on ampguts is significantly different. This looks like a 2500.
Suggestions (applies to ALL components being desoldered):
Set the iiron to no higher than ~750°F.
* Clip the leads and remove each one individually.
* Apply heat to the side of the board that has the most copper for the connection being desoldered.
* Never let the tip of the iron actually touch the solder pad. Heat the lead, not the pad. When desoldering the via, have enough solder to allow you to heat the solder without touching the solder pad.
* If there are burrs on the ends of the component leads (from when they were trimmed during production), clip the leads with a pair of sharp flush cutters so the burr doesn't pull the via.
I don't have the value for the zeners in this amp. If we can't determine the values, I may be able to borrow a 2500 to check the values.
Were there 2 versions of the 500.2? The 500.2 on ampguts is significantly different. This looks like a 2500.
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