• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

A new masterpiece to add to the family...

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haha. Well it is work in progress... [84 rect, 6922, 6as7g]:nod:
 

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Yeah those caps are glued to the plate. It is a nice way to keep them in one spot.

Oh yeah and it is a ratshack pot. You can smell them a miles away, huh? haha Can't beat them for 1.99.

It is going to be a headphone amp, with a preamp switch. Should work out good. And the 6as7g is a triode to boot.
 
Actually, come to think of it, big bang is right -- but not for softened plastic. The top of the can is where the safetly vent is, right? So what happens when the thing overheats and blows its top? :eek:

Tim

P.S. I know that's an RS pot 'cuz I have one or two, dual gang 100k audio taper with loudness tap I presume... :)
I never noticed if it's Alps, does RS even buy anything at all from them?

P.P.S. is that a 269AX?
 
Hi Tim;

>>>...never noticed if it's Alps, does RS even buy anything at all from them?...<<<

Yes, RS buys it's 100k dual audio taper pots from Alps (look on the side, you'll see "Alps" and "Japan". It's the same grade (though a little different configuration) as is the 100k Alps that JoLida is so proud of (theirs has pins for PCB mounting rather than lugs). Alps also makes the 100k mono audio taper pot with an integral SPST that RS stocks; it's not bad for radio repairs.

Guilty confession time - in the same bin as my spare Alps Blue, I've got a half dozen of those little $3 "RS" Alps stereo potentiometers! IMHO the next step up from there is a big one $$-wise. There's not much else these days at Archer Electronics (er, uh Radio Shack) that'll get me to walk in the door, though I do keep a goodly stock of those 1/2 watt and 1/4 watt carbon film resistors they still sell - not bad for the money. And, of course I mourn the passing of the venerable 40-1197 and 40-1354......

All the best,
Morse
 
Hi Guinness;

Great looking amp!! Sorry for posting this bit second, but my walk down memory lane in the prev post derailed my train of thought. Anyway, it's really clean looking work!

By the way, how did you get the label off the top of that Hammond (at least that's what that trafo LOOKS like to me) without removing paint?

Hmmm, on the 'caps and explosions' thing, I'm not sure how big a problem it is here. IIRC, aren't most of the big radial caps fitted with vents on the bottom and scored "weak walls" on the top? In which case, wouldn't it still be able to vent, but if it really blew then it could be a bit of a mess? Or, maybe it would just be propelled straight down.....Darned if I know. Hopefully you'll never find out! ;)

Anyway, good luck on it!!
All the best,
Morse
 
Thanks guyz...

Yeah that is a Hammond 269 tranny. I usually take off the label with a heat gun. Just heat them up a bit to soften up the glue and they come right off. THen the glue that remains on the transfromer comes right off with some paint thinner. This is also the first time I am using Panasonic TSHA caps. I have haerd good things about them and I really like the size compared to Spague Atoms. They are 2/3 smaller.

I hope the expoy works, you guyz hve me scared now!:eek: I was trying to mount everything without drilling more holes in the alumnium plate. I like the cleaner look.
 
Hi Guiness;

>>>...I hope the expoy works, you guyz hve me scared now! I was trying to mount everything without drilling more holes in the alumnium plate. I like the cleaner look...<<<

Frankly I would not lose any sleep over it; IMHO it's probably just fine and will work out well, particularly since you already contacted Panasonic about it. But then, what do I know? ;) Good luck!!

Like yourself, I like the cleaner look too - have you ever considered going to a really thick top plate (maybe 12mm or so - you'd have to ask a pro machinist) so that you can blind tap it from one side? Then you could have all the mounting holes you want and you'd never have to look at 'em. Failing that, you could mount brackets to the wooden chassis sides for things like caps - that's how I've mounted the OPT's, the fuse block, and the 25w rated 'dropper' resistor for my upcoming 6BM8.

Thanks for the 'how to' on the cleaning up of Hammonds. I've been lazy 'til now and have just left 'em as I got 'em.

Good luck with your amp and all the best,
Morse
 
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