Having recently changed some belts in the transport of my Aiwa XK009 deck, it turned out to be a lot easier than I expected it to be initially. If the transports don't differ too much, there are only a couple of screws that need to removed for acces to the transport. I think I bought the replacement belts from someone on Ebay Germany - I will have a look and see if they offer replacements for your Aiwa as well.
hi mixter,
most likely you will have to take off the existing belts and measure them, there is usualy at least one that requires dismantling the mechanism.
if you have not do this before can be quite tricky on some models, my advise is take notes and photos of the dissasemly.
the rubber belts can flat type or square section, these replacement types are availible from online supliers in uk here is one that i use http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/home.php?cat=269
have fun
most likely you will have to take off the existing belts and measure them, there is usualy at least one that requires dismantling the mechanism.
if you have not do this before can be quite tricky on some models, my advise is take notes and photos of the dissasemly.
the rubber belts can flat type or square section, these replacement types are availible from online supliers in uk here is one that i use http://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/home.php?cat=269
have fun
Unbelievable ! 
I had one of these for years, flogged it to death, I fitted 3 heads, new capstans- the microgroove finish wore shiny causing flutter, motors, pinch rollers springs etc etc. Gave it to a friend about 5 years ago !
Only got rid of all the spare bits recently.
You have to remove the "bracket" with the two endfloat adjusters on them. I always took the whole mech out. 4 screws I seem to remember.
www.cpc.co.uk used to do all the spares but that was ages ago.
Take the belts off, just measure "end to end" with it flat on the table. Double the reading to get the circumference of course.
CPC still do I think a lot of belts listed by size.
Edit -- Think you can just loosen the bracket and wriggle the belts out that way to save removing the mech.
I had one of these for years, flogged it to death, I fitted 3 heads, new capstans- the microgroove finish wore shiny causing flutter, motors, pinch rollers springs etc etc. Gave it to a friend about 5 years ago ! Only got rid of all the spare bits recently.
You have to remove the "bracket" with the two endfloat adjusters on them. I always took the whole mech out. 4 screws I seem to remember.
www.cpc.co.uk used to do all the spares but that was ages ago.
Take the belts off, just measure "end to end" with it flat on the table. Double the reading to get the circumference of course.
CPC still do I think a lot of belts listed by size.
Edit -- Think you can just loosen the bracket and wriggle the belts out that way to save removing the mech.
Mooly,
Bit of bad luck on my part, then. Problem I have is the belts perished, so I cannot measure them
So, the only way I can think of solving this is with belts specific for the deck rather than generic by size.
I suppose I could get a range of elastic bands to see which is the best size around the drive, but I am not wholly sure of their routing.
Don't suppose you took any pictures of your mechansim when you have tinkered?
Bit of bad luck on my part, then. Problem I have is the belts perished, so I cannot measure them
So, the only way I can think of solving this is with belts specific for the deck rather than generic by size.
I suppose I could get a range of elastic bands to see which is the best size around the drive, but I am not wholly sure of their routing.
Don't suppose you took any pictures of your mechansim when you have tinkered?
Sorry no pics but the run of the belts is straightfoward I remember.
Look down on the mech. Going from memory now.Theres an "outer belt" which is last on and first to take off. It runs in line with the motor pulley to the rim of the capstan nearest the middle of the deck (I think) The belt sits on the flat edge, dont worry it won't fall off, a flat belt like these- think they were about 0.8 mm thick and about 4 or 5 mm wide self centers due to the curvature of the motor pulley. The belt linking the two flywheels was slightly narrower e.g. 3 or 4 mm.
Try some thin strips of paper to get an approx size, then get a belt that is slightly too big, then keep cutting and glueing (super glue -tinyest amount ) to get the correct size, then measure and get new.
If they are that perished I fear you may have other problems, the idler tyre on the little pulley on the reel motor and the pinch rollers as well. Check they haven't gone "guey"
Look down on the mech. Going from memory now.Theres an "outer belt" which is last on and first to take off. It runs in line with the motor pulley to the rim of the capstan nearest the middle of the deck (I think) The belt sits on the flat edge, dont worry it won't fall off, a flat belt like these- think they were about 0.8 mm thick and about 4 or 5 mm wide self centers due to the curvature of the motor pulley. The belt linking the two flywheels was slightly narrower e.g. 3 or 4 mm.
Try some thin strips of paper to get an approx size, then get a belt that is slightly too big, then keep cutting and glueing (super glue -tinyest amount ) to get the correct size, then measure and get new.
If they are that perished I fear you may have other problems, the idler tyre on the little pulley on the reel motor and the pinch rollers as well. Check they haven't gone "guey"
Attachments
hi
wow mooly what a messy lad you are, the fingers are gonna be stuck to the belt, to the pulley, the paper strips and everywhere else.
bloody horrible stuff that super glue.
heres a method that i use, it is fiddly but not messy just takes a little patience. no a lot of patience
remove mechanism compleatly if poss, cant remember if the wiring is plugged in on this model
wrap a piece of sewing cotton around the pulleys as shown in moolys drawing, while holding it tight and square on the belt path. (try it a couple of times you will get it right)
mark a point where they meet (on both ends of cotton)
lay this piece of cotton out in a straight line and measure the distance from one mark to the other. in mm
i use white cotton and fine marker pen for this
this gives the circumference, divide by 3.142 (pie) this gives the diameter.
then buy 2 belts that are one size and two sizes smaller one of these will be perfect. Did i mention width as well.
do same for all belts. then go to the web site i gave you to order them by diameter,
use the leftover/extra belts for flicking ink bombs at the teacher
i do agree with moolys suggestion regarding the other rubber bits check they have not gone gooey
wow mooly what a messy lad you are,
the fingers are gonna be stuck to the belt, to the pulley, the paper strips and everywhere else.bloody horrible stuff that super glue.
heres a method that i use, it is fiddly but not messy just takes a little patience. no a lot of patience
remove mechanism compleatly if poss, cant remember if the wiring is plugged in on this model
wrap a piece of sewing cotton around the pulleys as shown in moolys drawing, while holding it tight and square on the belt path. (try it a couple of times you will get it right)
mark a point where they meet (on both ends of cotton)
lay this piece of cotton out in a straight line and measure the distance from one mark to the other. in mm
i use white cotton and fine marker pen for this
this gives the circumference, divide by 3.142 (pie) this gives the diameter.
then buy 2 belts that are one size and two sizes smaller one of these will be perfect. Did i mention width as well.
do same for all belts. then go to the web site i gave you to order them by diameter,
use the leftover/extra belts for flicking ink bombs at the teacher
i do agree with moolys suggestion regarding the other rubber bits check they have not gone gooey
The cottons a good idea. Have you seen the price Donberg are asking. 12.90 and 17.90 euros. Get a few from somewhere like CPC or, what no one ever seems to do, approach the manufacturer. In the past I have ordered from Aiwa (for the 770) Sony and Pioneer and Denon. No problem and they are often cheaper far cheaper. The only one that ever kicked up a fuss was Teac. Also CPC are spares agents for Aiwa, tell them what parts you want and they probably have them on the data base.
The pinch rollers are easy to change but you have to take the deck out -- which is 2 minutes of a job. I remember now, you could remove the deck and actually screw it to the top frame with a single screw and work on it if needs be. The idler assembly lives behind the cassette door. That's the most tricky thing to work on. The whole door/flap will unclip (circlips) and hinge up out of the way for access.
Me no messy
hi mixter
'out of the box' is right, i must be working on this stuff good luck with your deck.
hi mooly
i agree the price is steep at donberg, you are correct about cpc they were spares agents for aiwa, as far as i know the brand was wholy bought out by sony then killed off.
most of the other manufacturers you list only supply via spares agents these days, i am used to the high prices for spares.
i must think seriously about retiring
'out of the box' is right, i must be working on this stuff good luck with your deck.
hi mooly
i agree the price is steep at donberg, you are correct about cpc they were spares agents for aiwa, as far as i know the brand was wholy bought out by sony then killed off.
most of the other manufacturers you list only supply via spares agents these days, i am used to the high prices for spares.
i must think seriously about retiring
Just had a look at Charles Hyde, http://www.chsinteractive.co.uk/
a lot of belts stocked of course but very little Aiwa specific parts though. Fluorescent display £100 with VAT. We forget how old these decks are, I think circa 1984/5 for the ADF770. I remember going down to Wilmslow Audio ( when they were near Jodrell Bank ) for mine. Remember it well, there was a partial solar eclipse that day.
One other fault comes to mind on these, the PSU regulators and a couple of zeners run very hot, they don't fail but they become dry jointed--worth checking.
a lot of belts stocked of course but very little Aiwa specific parts though. Fluorescent display £100 with VAT. We forget how old these decks are, I think circa 1984/5 for the ADF770. I remember going down to Wilmslow Audio ( when they were near Jodrell Bank ) for mine. Remember it well, there was a partial solar eclipse that day.
One other fault comes to mind on these, the PSU regulators and a couple of zeners run very hot, they don't fail but they become dry jointed--worth checking.
hi mooly
£100 for the display nuts isnt it? this is typical of the pricing for such stuff, no wonder my customers think im makin myself a bomb on servicing. these folks are the spares agents for quite a few manufacturers these days. in fact the only source for some.
wilmslow are still going they have helped me out a couple of times recently. dont know if it is the same guys these days.
£100 for the display nuts isnt it? this is typical of the pricing for such stuff, no wonder my customers think im makin myself a bomb on servicing. these folks are the spares agents for quite a few manufacturers these days. in fact the only source for some.
wilmslow are still going they have helped me out a couple of times recently. dont know if it is the same guys these days.
I have an old AIWA AD-4Head, multi-norm tape deck I bought in NY in 1998. Of late, I was having repeated problems with the INSERT/EJECT mechanism. Finally I took the casing off and noticed one of the elastic belts was slipping (not broken, just distended). I swapped it with a regular 4mm wide elastic band (not even the AIWA square profile) and the sstem is up-and-running again. I'm sure the normal elastic will wear out much faster the the original AIWA belt, but if that happens, I'll just put in another elastic. This is the belt that drives the INSERT and EJECT cycles; these are not solicited as often as the other drive belts.
_____________________________
_____________________________
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.