I'm currently building something right now and my chip amps are rated for upto 24v. The battery I built for it is a 5s2p battery which outputs 21v when fully charged. I want to maximize the power provided by the chip amps, so I bought these to step up the voltage to 24v: Amazon.com: Gowoops 5PCS 150W DC-DC 10-32V to 12-35V Step Up Boost Converter Module Adjustable Power Voltage: Computers & Accessories
My concern is that my chip amp is rated for 200w rms at 24v, and the converter is only rated for 150w. I would think this wouldn't be a concern since 200 is not much more than 150 and because it's a sound system I doubt it'll be running close to 200w rms at higher volumes. Plus, I'm sure the chip amp is slightly overrated in power output. I'm still concerned though because I know amplifiers tend to be inefficient and draw more power than they output. Is this a bad idea or will it be okay?
My concern is that my chip amp is rated for 200w rms at 24v, and the converter is only rated for 150w. I would think this wouldn't be a concern since 200 is not much more than 150 and because it's a sound system I doubt it'll be running close to 200w rms at higher volumes. Plus, I'm sure the chip amp is slightly overrated in power output. I'm still concerned though because I know amplifiers tend to be inefficient and draw more power than they output. Is this a bad idea or will it be okay?
Not inefficient, but this is a portable "party" system I guess, and it does use a little bit of EQ. Because it's going to be turned up quite often, I would like to have as much headroom as possible, which is why I want to push 24v to the amp. I should mention the amp also does start to clip at very high volumes, but the drivers have more to go. I just want a bit more power out of it.
It's a bi amped system actually, the tweeters are fine and don't seem to clip at all because they are far more efficient than the 8 inch woofers. The amp for the woofers is the issue right now because it's clipping, and you're right that the clipping from the amp damages the drivers, which is why I want to give it more power so it won't clip. It's definitely not a DJ system or anything but I would like to be able to turn it up more without it clipping and damaging something.
I'm using this for the woofers:
Amazon.com: Audio Amplifier Board, Yeeco Dual Channel 100W+100W Digital Power Amplifier Board DC 14-32V 15V 20V 24V Car Audio Stereo AMP Module with Volume Knob for Audio System DIY Speakers: MP3 Players & Accessories Yeah so I do want to increase the voltage to the board but my concern is that the voltage booster won't be able to handle the power.
Amazon.com: Audio Amplifier Board, Yeeco Dual Channel 100W+100W Digital Power Amplifier Board DC 14-32V 15V 20V 24V Car Audio Stereo AMP Module with Volume Knob for Audio System DIY Speakers: MP3 Players & Accessories Yeah so I do want to increase the voltage to the board but my concern is that the voltage booster won't be able to handle the power.
While it says =10 amp output it qualifies that by putting in brackets (MAX )
it doesn't say it keeps that current at that level over the full voltage range ,I have come across this type of advertising of electrical products before where the highest output voltage doesn't equate to the full current output .
Its too simplified ,look at this converter to show the difference --it states=100% full rated power and stable output voltage notice the difference in wording --no (MAX ) in brackets.-
12V TO 24V 20A DC DC 500W Step Up Boost DC-DC Converter Power Voltage Regulator for Sale - BlackBerryForums.com
it doesn't say it keeps that current at that level over the full voltage range ,I have come across this type of advertising of electrical products before where the highest output voltage doesn't equate to the full current output .
Its too simplified ,look at this converter to show the difference --it states=100% full rated power and stable output voltage notice the difference in wording --no (MAX ) in brackets.-
12V TO 24V 20A DC DC 500W Step Up Boost DC-DC Converter Power Voltage Regulator for Sale - BlackBerryForums.com
I don't know what speakers you use, but if you have a supply of say +/-24V, the max output is about 22V peak which represents 60W into 4 ohms, tops. 30W in 8 ohms.
If you use 24V unipolar it's 1/4th of that.
Assuming 60W output per channel, that's 120W total. A 150W supply should be adequate.
The 200W rating of the chip most probably is its max dissipation, which has no direct relationship to power output.
Jan
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The more power output you want from the converter, the more effort you have to make to keep the power fets cool. Unless you can get confident about heat transfer and temperature rises and fet die temperature, I would seriously derate your expectations on any power output rating, and even then you have to do your due diligence on cooling the module or it may fail without you realising what is happening.
The problem with converters is not the average power output: even a "200W rms" (sic, in fact probably 200W mean power rigorously speaking) amplifier that should draw 300W under pure sine, max conditions will generally remain below 1/5th of that with music, unless you push the volume into heavy clipping with a heavily compressed program.
The real issue is that each rail will have to provide up to four times the average current for peaks, and that applies to regular music.
This is why audio-oriented converters exist: they are capable of providing the high transient currents required without collapsing or going into protection on peaks.
In principle, a large reservoir capacitor could provide for the transients, but normal converters have problems starting on large caps.
Another option is to use a vastly oversized converter, which is more or less your case
The real issue is that each rail will have to provide up to four times the average current for peaks, and that applies to regular music.
This is why audio-oriented converters exist: they are capable of providing the high transient currents required without collapsing or going into protection on peaks.
In principle, a large reservoir capacitor could provide for the transients, but normal converters have problems starting on large caps.
Another option is to use a vastly oversized converter, which is more or less your case
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