What would be a good supply to power the 3.3v this diyinhk xmos board requires ?
XMOS 384kHz DXD DSD256 high-quality USB to I2S/DSD/SPDIF PCB - DIYINHK
I'm currently using one of these
low noise Pre-Amp / DAC power supply MJE15034 TL072 Regulator based on STUDER 900
to power a SRC at 5v and another at 6v feeding an AMS1117 board to power the xmos.
5pcs DC 5V to 3.3V Step-Down Power Supply Module AMS1117-3.3 800MA LDO NEW 700850568148 | eBay
What would improve on that ?
XMOS 384kHz DXD DSD256 high-quality USB to I2S/DSD/SPDIF PCB - DIYINHK
I'm currently using one of these
low noise Pre-Amp / DAC power supply MJE15034 TL072 Regulator based on STUDER 900
to power a SRC at 5v and another at 6v feeding an AMS1117 board to power the xmos.
5pcs DC 5V to 3.3V Step-Down Power Supply Module AMS1117-3.3 800MA LDO NEW 700850568148 | eBay
What would improve on that ?
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Hi ... If it only needs 3.3 VDC I would consider using a LiFePO4 battery (e.g. A123 Systems) and float charge it to 3.35 VDC (do check though that the diyinhk can handle this voltage - but I would be surprised if it can not).
Very low noise, high current delivery capability, almost no internal impedance (to my memory 6 milliohms) and it can be float charged from e.g. an LT3042 or LM317T.
If you prefer a simple solution it could be the LiFePO4 battery powered by the LM317T which you could then switch off if you would like to listen to battery only.
Cheers,
Jesper
Very low noise, high current delivery capability, almost no internal impedance (to my memory 6 milliohms) and it can be float charged from e.g. an LT3042 or LM317T.
If you prefer a simple solution it could be the LiFePO4 battery powered by the LM317T which you could then switch off if you would like to listen to battery only.
Cheers,
Jesper
Thank you for the suggestion !
After researching this I find all local suppliers are out of stock of the battery and currently we are not receiving post from 29 countries !! due to the suspension of passenger air services..(which freight small item cargo )
I will make a note for a future project.
So, any other suggestions for a supply I can build ?
Ideally I would like to modify the Studer 900 but alas 5v seems to be the lower limit and even if it were possible to adjust for 3v3 the requirement for at least 9v ac input would mean far too much heat generated in the case.
cheers,
bob.
After researching this I find all local suppliers are out of stock of the battery and currently we are not receiving post from 29 countries !! due to the suspension of passenger air services..(which freight small item cargo )
I will make a note for a future project.
So, any other suggestions for a supply I can build ?
Ideally I would like to modify the Studer 900 but alas 5v seems to be the lower limit and even if it were possible to adjust for 3v3 the requirement for at least 9v ac input would mean far too much heat generated in the case.
cheers,
bob.
Hi Bob ... well, the Covid-19 has an effect most everywhere it seems - and I reckon that a society like New Zealand's may be even more affected due to the current scarceness of regular transportation ...
Regarding power supply I will start out by saying that IMHO batteries are by far the sonically lowest noise, most powerful, revealing and "black/silent" power supply there is. So, again IMHO, I would personally always choose a battery where I can. And you may use other LiFePO4 chemistry batteries - they might sound differently though than the A123 Systems' which are the ones I have experience with.
That said I also would not choose a supply based on a TL072. The TL072 has a 3 MHz bandwidth and since you will be supplying digital circuitry there will be quite some HF noise that - as I see it - should be "handled" by the PSU. The TL072 is way too slow for that.
If it were me I would take a look at the diyaudio member Salas's shunt regulators:
Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
, the LT3042, or (again if it were me) wait until the batteries become available. FYI I have attached an LM317T circuitry that will sound reasonable (depending on the components you use - nichicon fine gold, KZ could be suggestions) - I'm thinking it could be used for a start. The extra leaf & rainwater drops are because I use two screens and my HD is currently full so that I cannot edit the size
You may, of course, also use the PSU you linked to yourself (if you can get it?) - I would add some extra higher capacitance capacitors on the input and output.
Cheers,
Jesper
Regarding power supply I will start out by saying that IMHO batteries are by far the sonically lowest noise, most powerful, revealing and "black/silent" power supply there is. So, again IMHO, I would personally always choose a battery where I can. And you may use other LiFePO4 chemistry batteries - they might sound differently though than the A123 Systems' which are the ones I have experience with.
That said I also would not choose a supply based on a TL072. The TL072 has a 3 MHz bandwidth and since you will be supplying digital circuitry there will be quite some HF noise that - as I see it - should be "handled" by the PSU. The TL072 is way too slow for that.
If it were me I would take a look at the diyaudio member Salas's shunt regulators:
Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator
, the LT3042, or (again if it were me) wait until the batteries become available. FYI I have attached an LM317T circuitry that will sound reasonable (depending on the components you use - nichicon fine gold, KZ could be suggestions) - I'm thinking it could be used for a start. The extra leaf & rainwater drops are because I use two screens and my HD is currently full so that I cannot edit the size
You may, of course, also use the PSU you linked to yourself (if you can get it?) - I would add some extra higher capacitance capacitors on the input and output.
Cheers,
Jesper
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Thank you for your most informative suggestions..
For your preference for a battery could I sub in some NiMH until the A123 Systems become available ?
Thanks for the comments re TL072... I did not know that.
I will look at the Salas, but again, getting boards may be some time away...
Thank you for the Lm317 circuit...I will try that as I have the components in my 'drawer'
Again, thank you for your time and help...it is most appreciated. !
Best,
Bob.
For your preference for a battery could I sub in some NiMH until the A123 Systems become available ?
Thanks for the comments re TL072... I did not know that.
I will look at the Salas, but again, getting boards may be some time away...
Thank you for the Lm317 circuit...I will try that as I have the components in my 'drawer'
are quite lovely and calming...
The AMS1117 ? I have this currently and your suggestions would be very easily made...
Again, thank you for your time and help...it is most appreciated. !
Best,
Bob.
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@gentlevoice
Yes... This was easy from the rat-box ! A couple of 1000uF low ESR caps from some random computer Mobo at the input and output of the AMS1117...
Input made a small but noticeable difference....output made a rather large and definitely noticeable difference !!
Thanks for your guidance ...I am looking forward to the future when the A123 batteries are available and to try your suggested mods...
Thanks,
bob
Yes... This was easy from the rat-box ! A couple of 1000uF low ESR caps from some random computer Mobo at the input and output of the AMS1117...
Input made a small but noticeable difference....output made a rather large and definitely noticeable difference !!
Thanks for your guidance ...I am looking forward to the future when the A123 batteries are available and to try your suggested mods...
Thanks,
bob
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Hi Bob ... you are welcome - pleased that it worked out and you could hear a difference ;-)
Let me just briefly say that I am very power supply oriented, and have concluded that a good power supply can indeed transform a reasonable (but otherwise well-designed) audio system. And again IMHO (good) batteries are in a league of their own ...
But if you decide to try batteries beware that they are entirely unforgiving: Since Li-ions and LiFePO4s cannot be discharged (will ruin them) they are always powerfully "ON" and therefore there can be no mistakes ... Just FYI and remembering one or two grey hairs appeared over time due to battery "mistakes" ...
Cheers and best of luck in this endeavor of yours ;-)
Jesper
Let me just briefly say that I am very power supply oriented, and have concluded that a good power supply can indeed transform a reasonable (but otherwise well-designed) audio system. And again IMHO (good) batteries are in a league of their own ...
But if you decide to try batteries beware that they are entirely unforgiving: Since Li-ions and LiFePO4s cannot be discharged (will ruin them) they are always powerfully "ON" and therefore there can be no mistakes ... Just FYI and remembering one or two grey hairs appeared over time due to battery "mistakes" ...
Cheers and best of luck in this endeavor of yours ;-)
Jesper
You're welcome!
If you PM Tea Bag he will sort you out should you decide to go that route.
He just shipped to me this week to the UK a pair of Reflektor PCBs and I also got the 2SK117GR from him as they are obsolete. He will sell you measured ones or non measured ones a bit cheaper.
Read the build PDF as there is useful info in there about setting up for different voltages. I am aiming mine for 3v3 also for a couple of the rails into an Ian Canada dac.
Salas L adapter goes down to below 2 volts but is a series regulator and generally aimed at higher amperage consumers.
If you PM Tea Bag he will sort you out should you decide to go that route.
He just shipped to me this week to the UK a pair of Reflektor PCBs and I also got the 2SK117GR from him as they are obsolete. He will sell you measured ones or non measured ones a bit cheaper.
Read the build PDF as there is useful info in there about setting up for different voltages. I am aiming mine for 3v3 also for a couple of the rails into an Ian Canada dac.
Salas L adapter goes down to below 2 volts but is a series regulator and generally aimed at higher amperage consumers.
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