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Hello, I am attempting to build a sound system for my electric trike “Triguar”. The trike has a 1200w 48v motor powered by a 48v 30ah lithium battery located under the seat. I would like to incorporate the speakers into the frame of the bike, possibly where the gas tank would be on a motorcycle, wondering what size speakers would work best and if I would need build an enclosure to fit inside fake gas tank. Also wanted to possibly add a sub maybe as a back rest for the second passenger. Was looking at class D amps and wondering if I could use a 48v amp or if I should go 24v with a regulator? I already am running a 12v regulator for some led lights. Also wondering if I should use my 48v battery or have a second power source. Budget is around $100-$200. Here are some pics of the trike so far. Thank Jesus you in advance for your help 
James
James
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Thanks for the advise it is much appreciated. Just wondering how long the 2 4” speakers would be able to play at full volume vs mid volume on the 48v 30ah battery. Also do you think I could add another larger speaker and use it as a backrest? Maybe a bass tube and Put it on the sub channel? What about a box for the 4” speakers? Would I need to build one? If so how big? Also is a 24v amp going to last longer than a 48v?
Thank you again for all your help
Thank you again for all your help
Hi,
You can add a sub-woofer and reduce the front-speaker size to 3 inch. On the speaker part of the forum, they are much better than I in telling you about sizes and shapes.
20V supply should leave you with some 2x45W in 4 Ohm. If you are on the bike it will be more than enough. "Full power" and 'half power' is not relevant with real music because the power intensity varies heavily all the time. When you listen to music at home, the total output power used is typically 2-5W. The 48V 30Ah battery will give you more than a day of loud music if only used for the amplifier.
A 48V amplifier just gives 4 times the output power compared to a 24V amplifier. The current drain will be (much) higher if used at full but hardly with a purpose.
The power conversion with a Buck converter is with around 90% efficiency.
You can add a sub-woofer and reduce the front-speaker size to 3 inch. On the speaker part of the forum, they are much better than I in telling you about sizes and shapes.
20V supply should leave you with some 2x45W in 4 Ohm. If you are on the bike it will be more than enough. "Full power" and 'half power' is not relevant with real music because the power intensity varies heavily all the time. When you listen to music at home, the total output power used is typically 2-5W. The 48V 30Ah battery will give you more than a day of loud music if only used for the amplifier.
A 48V amplifier just gives 4 times the output power compared to a 24V amplifier. The current drain will be (much) higher if used at full but hardly with a purpose.
The power conversion with a Buck converter is with around 90% efficiency.
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Would it be more power economical to use a 48v amp? Like a tpa3255? If I’m only listening at moderate levels? What about putting in a 300watt sub? How much power will it actually draw if I’m not totally cranking it? 300w? Thank you again for all your help. Was maybe thinking I could put in a 120v switch so I could plug in the trike and crank it if need be. Also which speakers and sub are the most power economical?
Using a 48V amplifier is neither more money economical nor more power economical than using a TPA3116 at 20V. What you get from a 48V amplifier is a power that largely exceeds the capacity of the two 3 inch speakers. Remember that while you are on the "Triguar", your head is about 1m away from the speakers.
300W sub-woofer: Had it been a 4 wheeled traditional Jaguar (car), you could install a 300W sub-system and try to ruin your hearing and shake the "Jag" to a wreck. The car has a continuous power source to feed the sound system and if not sufficient, you can upgrade the generator. Your "Triguar" has only a battery that may support 300W of sound from the sub-system for 4 hours (very rough estimate) with full batteries at the start. No battery capacity to help pedaling. Are you going to stay on the trike with 300W of sound just behind you?
You are far from the first who assumes that car-audio power levels can just be implemented as a mobile system and feed from a battery.
For the sub-woofer system, find a driver with a 100W-150W capacity and 2 Ohm impedance. Use a PBTL coupled (mono) TPA3116 amplifier at 20V and you will get some 90W of power. More than enough.
For sub-driver advice, try the car audio section.
Good luck with the project. It's a nice Triguar.
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TPA3250 could be an alternative running at 24V. The supply voltage determines the maximum output power. TPA3250 and TPA3116 give the same output power at 20V supply. TPA3250 is nominally better than TPA3116 but also considerably more expensive. The reason why I propose TPA3116 is your realistic chances of noticing the fine nuances in the sound on a bicycle with speakers/speaker positions that are compromised by the possibility for implementation. TPA3116 also has a nicely low idle consumption.
Two 8 inch or one sub-woofer with an 8 inch driver (or two drivers in push-pull coupling) can, as I see it, be expected to give a similar sound. I guess you will have problems finding space for more than 8 inch anyway. The volume of the casing has to match the size of the driver.
Two 8 inch or one sub-woofer with an 8 inch driver (or two drivers in push-pull coupling) can, as I see it, be expected to give a similar sound. I guess you will have problems finding space for more than 8 inch anyway. The volume of the casing has to match the size of the driver.
Nice project! What is the status?
What speakers are you using?
IMO TPA3116 is the way to go even though your have more then enough battery power to run a couple of tpa3255's for days at full power.
This because of your budget, weight and size of the speaker which can take that much power. I would go 2.1 and can recommend this board: 2.1 amplifier board. and get yourself a 2Ohm subwoofer and 4ohm tops speakers.
Maybe re-use a bigger (logitech?) 2.1 pc speaker set?
Seeing the trike I had to think of the pioneer TS-wx206a
I have 2 of those as well and they have great output for their size and weight. The box is made of mdf. If you rebuild is with ply (okoume) you can save some weight.
If you combine it with a classD car headunit with bridged front/back outputs for the tops, you have a nice setup as well.
What speakers are you using?
IMO TPA3116 is the way to go even though your have more then enough battery power to run a couple of tpa3255's for days at full power.
This because of your budget, weight and size of the speaker which can take that much power. I would go 2.1 and can recommend this board: 2.1 amplifier board. and get yourself a 2Ohm subwoofer and 4ohm tops speakers.
Maybe re-use a bigger (logitech?) 2.1 pc speaker set?
Seeing the trike I had to think of the pioneer TS-wx206a
I have 2 of those as well and they have great output for their size and weight. The box is made of mdf
. If you rebuild is with ply (okoume) you can save some weight.If you combine it with a classD car headunit with bridged front/back outputs for the tops, you have a nice setup as well.
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Project has been put on pause because of work:/ I’m still trying to figure out the best mounting positions for both speakers and the sub. I like the idea of using a 2.1 computer speaker set up. The only problem is finding a place to put the giant sub box, thinking I might try to build my own or possibly go with a bass tube. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Trying to keep the weight in front of the rear axel to prevent popping wheelies when I hit the gas with two riders.
Thank you all for your suggestions!
Thank you all for your suggestions!
copied from The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine
His 30Ah 48V battery pack is more then powerfull enough to run a couple of TPA3255's (600W) for day's at full power as the continues draw will be a lot less then the peak power needed.
Music has a crestfactor and will use a lot less (10-20 times) power then when playing square waves true the system.
Size and weight of the speakers and budget make tpa3116 the better choice.
His 30Ah 48V battery pack is more then powerfull enough to run a couple of TPA3255's (600W) for day's at full power as the continues draw will be a lot less then the peak power needed.
Music has a crestfactor and will use a lot less (10-20 times) power then when playing square waves true the system.
Size and weight of the speakers and budget make tpa3116 the better choice.
Mounting the sub close to the ground will make it more efficient; what about under the rear axle in a custom flat box?
Most bought subwoofer boxes are made of mdf, which is heavy and sucks up water like a sponge..... If you rebuild the box with ply (9-12mm or 3/8"-1/2" Okoume is lightweight) you can make it a custom size and shape so is fits.
// I would put the top speakers at the handle bar or a bit in front of it, so that you can aim them to you.
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I ordered a tpa3116 amplifier and am thinking of going with a 100w 6” bazooka bass tube in the back with two 4” speakers on the handkebars. Was thinking it would be nice if they were marine grade so wanted to go with the Polk audio DB401 or possibly the DB402. Does anyone know if one is better than the other? I know the DB402 is newer but the d401s have amazing reviews. Let me know what you think? Should be done with the build by the end of next week.
Which 3116 amp?
These are some nice coaxials.
DB401 Frequency Response 85 - 22000 Hz + Sensitivity 91dB
DB402 Frequency Response 60 - 22000 Hz + Sensitivity 90dB
The DB402 go a bit lower and are a bit less loud, so I would go for the 401's. Prices seem $90-140 If you can get the 402 a lot cheaper then the 401's I would get those as they are similar.
This sub? Amazon.com: Bazooka BTA6100 BT Series 6-Inch 100-Watt Amplified Tube Subwoofer: Car Electronics (if you add links you will get more replies)
" 85 Hz Low-Pass Filter (18 Db/Octave) " is to low, you will cross around 150-200hz and $175 is a lot of money for what you get.
" Patented tube enclosure design is optimized for "corner loading," for maximum bass performance" you won't have corner loading and the "Sensitivity 103 Db" is an in car/fantasy spec.
A 6" sub woofer is probably not going to keep up with them. An 8" has double the surfice area and a 10" more then 3 times. Sealed car subs can live in 10 and 20 liter boxes; a flat model box should fit fine.
You want to have an 2 ohm sub woofer for the 3116 amp which makes the search a bit harder. 2x8" in a 20 liter box would be a nice option.
These are some nice coaxials.
DB401 Frequency Response 85 - 22000 Hz + Sensitivity 91dB
DB402 Frequency Response 60 - 22000 Hz + Sensitivity 90dB
The DB402 go a bit lower and are a bit less loud, so I would go for the 401's. Prices seem $90-140 If you can get the 402 a lot cheaper then the 401's I would get those as they are similar.
This sub? Amazon.com: Bazooka BTA6100 BT Series 6-Inch 100-Watt Amplified Tube Subwoofer: Car Electronics (if you add links you will get more replies)
" 85 Hz Low-Pass Filter (18 Db/Octave) " is to low, you will cross around 150-200hz and $175 is a lot of money for what you get.
" Patented tube enclosure design is optimized for "corner loading," for maximum bass performance" you won't have corner loading and the "Sensitivity 103 Db" is an in car/fantasy spec.
A 6" sub woofer is probably not going to keep up with them. An 8" has double the surfice area and a 10" more then 3 times. Sealed car subs can live in 10 and 20 liter boxes; a flat model box should fit fine.
You want to have an 2 ohm sub woofer for the 3116 amp which makes the search a bit harder. 2x8" in a 20 liter box would be a nice option.
So I ended up upgrading to a tpa3255 it is a 2.1 channel. I am running a 48v battery to it. My question is, can the amp handle the 48v battery at full charge which could be around 54v? Also I added 2 Polk audio 6x9 speakers and a 300w bazooka tube sub. The sub however seems very underpowered? Is there a way to preamp the sub? I am pretty underwealmed all together with the upgrade. Any advise or suggestions would be greatly appreaciated.
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