Hello everyone!
Need some advice to fix a power supply for a Klipsch RW-10D subwoofer. (Same as RW-10, BASH 300S, perhaps same/similar to others). Trying to see if anyone else has successfully worked on these and can identify a common issue and resolution.
Firstly, I know that the BASH 300S is a suitable replacement board, but I got this sub free and I'm out of work, so it's out of my budget in any case.
The previous owner replaced two exploded caps (C433,C434), but they exploded again. I also noticed two others that had blackened ends (C413,C414). I've replaced all 4 with a different style of cap, similarly labeled "104". Also, I carefully removed the yellow anti-vibration glue that could be shorting components. Now, when I put power into the reassembled sub the backlit LED/DSP display blinks on briefly, same when I disconnect. Otherwise, there's no activity from the sub, nothing on the display. When I plug in an audio source to the RCA's, nothing happens.
The fuse is OK (I've checked several times), and no other components "look" bad.
Can anyone point me to what other component(s) might be bad? I'm including some pics and a PDF schematic.
I'm very good at soldering/desoldering and have great equipment too, so I'm not worried about the time or effort it will take. I'm just not an electrical engineer and don't understand the circuit that well.
Thanks a bunch!
Need some advice to fix a power supply for a Klipsch RW-10D subwoofer. (Same as RW-10, BASH 300S, perhaps same/similar to others). Trying to see if anyone else has successfully worked on these and can identify a common issue and resolution.
Firstly, I know that the BASH 300S is a suitable replacement board, but I got this sub free and I'm out of work, so it's out of my budget in any case.
The previous owner replaced two exploded caps (C433,C434), but they exploded again. I also noticed two others that had blackened ends (C413,C414). I've replaced all 4 with a different style of cap, similarly labeled "104". Also, I carefully removed the yellow anti-vibration glue that could be shorting components. Now, when I put power into the reassembled sub the backlit LED/DSP display blinks on briefly, same when I disconnect. Otherwise, there's no activity from the sub, nothing on the display. When I plug in an audio source to the RCA's, nothing happens.
The fuse is OK (I've checked several times), and no other components "look" bad.
Can anyone point me to what other component(s) might be bad? I'm including some pics and a PDF schematic.
I'm very good at soldering/desoldering and have great equipment too, so I'm not worried about the time or effort it will take. I'm just not an electrical engineer and don't understand the circuit that well.
Thanks a bunch!
Attachments
That appears to be a switcher supply. These run off the mains power. They are very dangerous to work on. I suggest you not do it. The control of the power supply is "proprietary" so you probably could not buy it economically. If it blew up in under 20 years, then the design is sleazy. I've repaired >20 year old Peavey & Allen switcher supplies where the defects were only the obvious overage front end electrolytic caps and current limiters. If the control was blown in those, it was an IC available at newark digikey or mouser. I changed out the aged tantalum caps in those as a preventive measure, but the design didn't blow them up.
If you wish to rehouse the linear "features" board and amp board in another enclosure and power them from transformers/rectifiers/filter caps then those boards could possibly be reused. Sometimes the op amp voltages can be sourced from surplus wall transformers from resale shops, but the amp rail transformer probably has to be bought at retail. A often mentioned source of amp rail transformers is antekinc.com in New Jersey. I've never used them, their transformers are always too big for the device I'm repairing.
More profitable to US residents, blown PA amps and organ amps are for sale on craigslist & e-bay that often contain useable transformers heat sinks & fans. Sometimes the driver board is okay. I just finished a PV-4c 120 w/channel PA amp for $48 ebay with freight, 4 output transistors, 4 rail caps, 2 input caps for about $76. On e-bay these are listed as amp for repair or parts. Watch the distance away on e-bay, freight can make these uneconomic. Don't cross customs borders, either.
If you wish to rehouse the linear "features" board and amp board in another enclosure and power them from transformers/rectifiers/filter caps then those boards could possibly be reused. Sometimes the op amp voltages can be sourced from surplus wall transformers from resale shops, but the amp rail transformer probably has to be bought at retail. A often mentioned source of amp rail transformers is antekinc.com in New Jersey. I've never used them, their transformers are always too big for the device I'm repairing.
More profitable to US residents, blown PA amps and organ amps are for sale on craigslist & e-bay that often contain useable transformers heat sinks & fans. Sometimes the driver board is okay. I just finished a PV-4c 120 w/channel PA amp for $48 ebay with freight, 4 output transistors, 4 rail caps, 2 input caps for about $76. On e-bay these are listed as amp for repair or parts. Watch the distance away on e-bay, freight can make these uneconomic. Don't cross customs borders, either.
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Hi,
did you repair the PSU?
I noted that you changed the capacitors with the wrong value. You inserted 0.1uF capacitors but the schematic reports 1uF. Maybe it's not a issue anyway but..
Anyway you need to insert capacitors with 100Vdc nominal voltage (because in the schematic is reported an electrolitic capacitor with a value of 100V).
Giovanni
did you repair the PSU?
I noted that you changed the capacitors with the wrong value. You inserted 0.1uF capacitors but the schematic reports 1uF. Maybe it's not a issue anyway but..
Anyway you need to insert capacitors with 100Vdc nominal voltage (because in the schematic is reported an electrolitic capacitor with a value of 100V).
Giovanni
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