Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Help with my PSU
Help with my PSU
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12th June 2018, 02:16 AM   #1
FriedMule is offline FriedMule  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Default Help with my PSU

I am trying to build an amplifier that I think is the most musical amplifier I have heard for normal money:-)

The only problem was that it did lack a lot in the base and did not have a great control of the speaker.

I am assuming that it had something to do with a underpowered PSU.
I am also unsure if the amplifier will clip under large passages of classic deeeep church orgel?
It was a 60W amplifier

I am thinking of upgrading the transformer to a 600VA and the caps.

How would you change the PSU voltage, amp and caps?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PSU.jpg (60.4 KB, 318 views)

Last edited by FriedMule; 12th June 2018 at 02:32 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th June 2018, 03:10 AM   #2
Ian Finch is online now Ian Finch  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
If you are working towards a Densen B100 Clone as per your previous thread, the power supply shown with a 300VA transformer is already more than sufficient for a 60W stereo amplifier. In any case, increasing the PSU's continuous current capacity will make little or no difference when the amplifier doesn't demand it. It was also stated that weak bass is a characteristic of "no global feedback" designs and this can only be compensated for by some form of equalization (bass boost).

I think this advice has already been given but it's an inherent flaw in the amplifier design approach that is the problem - though many users would say it isn't really a problem at all when overall sound quality is the higher priority.
__________________
If only I had listened....
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th June 2018, 03:16 AM   #3
FriedMule is offline FriedMule  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Thank you a lot!

Yes it is D-100

It was a bit hard for me to get all the info out of all those great answers.

So you think that 300VA would be perfect for this amp and I have to live with the base as it is or use a base booster or an other schematic?
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th June 2018, 04:08 AM   #4
Ian Finch is online now Ian Finch  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour, NSW
The schematic drawing is copied, I think, from the B100 schematic so no problem and the values and ratings of the power amplifier components will probably be correct but the substituted semiconductors are not what I would use - I would try to obtain and use transistors that were closer, if not the same type as the originals in any clone.

If the Densen product is what you like, then stay with your plan. The only proviso is that if you stray off the original design and layout, you may have stability problems that are too difficult to solve and you may then need practical assistance and expensive instruments etc. to solve problems. Try to locate the origin of that clone board and ask how it performed.

Living with the weak bass is probably the best option but having the further option of adding modest bass boost from a good quality preamp isn't such a terrible thing if the music requires it. The recording process probably already has had multiple boost/cut adjustments throughout every track of the final mix anyway. Be cautious though, when some guys tell you that having tone controls is bad audio karma or some such nonsense. Certainly, cheap tone control circuits are a bad idea but professional quality preamps are another matter.
__________________
If only I had listened....
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th June 2018, 04:41 AM   #5
FriedMule is offline FriedMule  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
I found this text from a Polish forum, where the schematic are displayed, it is the builder that writes:

Almost 2 years ago, I cloned this Dansen almost 100% by sticking to the original.
Without the power supply because I made it fast. It played a bit, then I threw it down ... I do not hide that SMD was aesthetically poor.
and I had suspicions about the semiconductor's originality

In general, is it worth to clone B100?
I asked myself this question and I will answer that I think so, because
- The originals are still scaring the price
- they are not new. I once had ... a tragedy. Everything on the plate after scorched, kondy and potek to exchange. Selector for putty ...
- they have a nice sound. Those who have them see what's going on.

So I decided to hit the theme for the second time and do it again.
The B100 version was probably 7 and in each of them the manufacturer was able to change semiconductors quite freely, keeping the same layout topologies.
I did the same
Final tranches I gave a popular 2SC5200 / 2SA1943, controlling 2SC4783 / 2SA1837 in the input differential system BC556, the rest is 2N5551 and 2N5401.
I gave up the short-circuit system.
Decreased gain (2k cities 500)

The whole thing sounded really good.
Better than the original

Well, it was worth it to make a housing.
I threw it into the DT1 from the toroids.
Only the tip because I have a preamp in a separate package.

The Densen B100 is a pretty immersive amplifier. You can once again on your favorite collection.
  Reply With Quote
Old 13th June 2018, 10:04 PM   #6
FriedMule is offline FriedMule  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Ian Finch did advice me to change the substituted semiconductors, any advice on why, to what and so fort?
The original sound should be a bit to the high tonebalance, that could be great to lower a bit, I mean more warmth.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedMule View Post
Final tranches I gave a popular 2SC5200 / 2SA1943, controlling 2SC4783 / 2SA1837 in the input differential system BC556, the rest is 2N5551 and 2N5401.
I gave up the short-circuit system.
Decreased gain (2k cities 500)

The whole thing sounded really good.
Better than the original

The Densen B100 is a pretty immersive amplifier. You can once again on your favorite collection.

Can anyone try to translate the Polish-GoogleEnglish?
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2018, 06:28 PM   #7
FriedMule is offline FriedMule  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Default Selecting the right PSU electrolytic capacitors?

I found this great comparison (High End Audio - Electrolytic capacitors) between different electrolytic capacitors that many refers to as a great guide. And I quickly found exactly what I was looking for! :-)
Or so I thought BUT the Elna Silmic II are only in wary low values and the almost as good Black Gate (Rubycon) is so old capacitors that, if you bye them now you almost have to be changed them tomorrow due to age.
Then I did try to investigate some of the other, like the Panasonic ECA but that resulted in confusing info, about there be newer on with a lot better sound and so on and on and on:-)

I am looking for musical, warm but detailed sound.
I have 56V rail to rail 14A.

What I am trying to do are to build a capacitor "staircase" where I use 2 x (large 22000uF, 47000uF, 10000uF, 5000uF, 1000uF and 1uF) to get capacity from the bigger and faster reaction time from the smallest.

Can anyone please try to help me to select the right ones?

Last edited by FriedMule; 22nd June 2018 at 06:30 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2018, 08:06 PM   #8
KatieandDad is offline KatieandDad  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
KatieandDad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
That is overkill. Main reservoirs as big as you want, parallel them with 100uF and then bypass with 1uF.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2018, 08:58 PM   #9
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
diyAudio Member
 
scottjoplin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Penrhyndeudraeth
The smaller caps are best used for local decoupling
__________________
Woofer Assisted Wideband is the New Testament renounce the anachronistic acronym FAST
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2018, 09:21 PM   #10
Mark Johnson is offline Mark Johnson  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Mark Johnson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Silicon Valley
Help with my PSU
Design it and build it however you like, the hobby is called do it YOURSELF after all. I myself would select capacitors with a rating of 63 volts WVDC, because I like to have a margin of safety, and 63V > 56V. I would also select capacitors whose lifetime was guaranteed at 105 degrees C (not 85C), again because I like a margin of safety.

Something like this capacitor (link) might be my choice for the biggest capacitor in the progression.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Help with my PSUHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best electrolytic capacitors Nelson Pass Parts 1263 15th July 2018 04:00 AM
Electrolytic Capacitors alibear Swap Meet 2 19th August 2017 04:44 PM
NOS electrolytic capacitors? redrooster Parts 11 22nd August 2016 11:50 PM
Capacitors-(mostly electrolytic) jim5763 Swap Meet 0 19th February 2010 07:17 PM
Electrolytic capacitors akis Parts 13 16th August 2009 05:13 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:36 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 14.29%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio
Wiki