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spikeyw 22nd August 2018 09:12 PM


Originally Posted by passive420 (
This is the best manual solder sucker I have found so far... ENGINEER SS-02

Ha ha, that youtuber don't recommend it due to blockages. Not a good choice of video to link to.:D

Is interesting the tip is made from silicone. I'm been using a RS branded solder sucker for almost 20 years and still performing well. However, I go through quite alot of Teflon tips due to burns so may try sliding on a silicone tube to see if it's more effective and last longer.

sq225917 22nd August 2018 09:54 PM

I don't use a sucker, just waggle out the compenents left then right and clear any remaing solder by blowing through with a medium diameter milk straw. This way you can keep the iron on the edge of the pad while blowing through.

Salas 22nd August 2018 10:01 PM


Originally Posted by Salas (
40 year old boards are single sided not plated through. Use solder wick and patience. Best is to have a vacuum desoldering gun with such modern boards. In despair cut the leg and suck out what's left in the plated hole. Replenish solder on the pad, it helps the suction tool.


Originally Posted by Salas (
This one also has large copper areas due to shield layer and large islands at points that pull thermal capacity. Its also made with heavy oz copper. If your iron is variable set it to 390C. 60W is good. Use flux too. Keep the desoldering area wet with new solder. You can also heat from one side and cover the other side with the suction tool better.


Originally Posted by Dadbeh (
got the mosfets out. all got destroyed in the provcess of couse so i cant test them. the wick did not help much but putting new solder on it to conduct heat did help. im gonna but a better soldering station. my weller now is 60 watt station but the pencil iron itself is 42 watt.


Originally Posted by Dadbeh (
I only wish that last week instead of advising me to get a soldering station that goers above 390C you should have just told me that a desoldering station is the only remedy. i already had a good 60 watts weller but i bought a new 90 watt weller because i thought going hotter is the solution. but again I think that what you are doing here has been very valuable to me and i appreciate it and please keep up this great work.

I don't see where I advised you to get a new iron and I did not mention a vacuum desoldering gun.

Salas 22nd August 2018 10:08 PM


Originally Posted by spikeyw (
I have now mounted M1 and M2 onto a thick sheet of aluminium which is bolted to the metal casing. With a load connected the temperature is around 55C. Is this OK for normal usage?

I noticed that the voltage slowly ramps up (about 3 seconds) to the operating voltage, this is causing problem to my Project Phono which have delayed relays operating during power on. Can the voltage made to stabilise quicker?

Salas, your Ultrabib has improved the sound quality on my Project Phono RS preamp. Well done and thank you for sharing this. I've just finished putting the Ultrabib in a case and this is the first time I'm using the Ultrabib. I'm listening to my records and can say it has made given vocals a bit more clarity and space and can hear the different background instruments more clearly as separate entities.

55C is surely not a reliability problem. C2 charges up to reach max has to be an explanation, there is no turn on spike just a smooth curve that you can capture in single trigger if you set a scope very slow, how many uF C2 you use and what is the Vout?

spikeyw 22nd August 2018 10:29 PM

C2 is 220uF and output voltage is 18V @ 300ma. Also M1=IRF610 / IRF9610 and C1=4700uF.

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply any spikes when switching on, just it does not reach the chosen voltage instantaneous.

Salas 22nd August 2018 10:42 PM

I think it was few hundreds of mSec for 220uF at 10V when I measured it. If you simply watch the scope moving up its DC line during start up you should get a pretty good visual clue. Its soft start, but if some application has issues with that you may cut its time in half by paralleling another 270R on top of each R5, R6, that would double the current supply to C2 and VR1 should be set half value lower of where it now is for same Vout. C2 100uF without other changes would produce the same decreased time too, but maybe you would object its ultralow frequencies more noise or not.

Salas 23rd August 2018 01:16 AM


Originally Posted by spikeyw (
FYI, I'm using alternative mosfets IRF9610 / IRF610, but surely this should not be the cause.

Those are good only for M1 when the CC is less than 1A and you don't have the Fairchilds but not for M2

Salas 23rd August 2018 02:24 AM


Originally Posted by spikeyw (
Mine also ramps down slowly too if no load is connected but drops pretty quickly with a load (i.e. my preamp) connected.

Make sure there is enough CC setting for the load so enough spare current remains for the reg and its not nearly starved for current so that is why it reaches a target slower than others experience or it changes thermal settling behavior with and without the load. Paralleling some handy resistor value from the spares box on R1 to drop its value by 25% or something around that percentage should answer if this scenario holds any water.

Salas 23rd August 2018 02:39 AM


Originally Posted by anhton82 (
Hi, Could you give me the layout of board. I want to have it now for my project, because Mr Tea-Bag said that he start group buy at the end of this year.
Many thanks !!!

No, the production files are GB material. I just have my few green prototypes, (+/-) two sections only in basic quality, and I can send you one if you are in a big hurry. PM me if so.

bk856er 23rd August 2018 04:13 AM

dadbeh, as you probably know, the tip dimensions are just as important as the temperature. It can make all the difference in getting energy into the board quickly. Hopefully your tip is optimal for the task.


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