Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator

Possibly Q2 or Q3 popped or J2 shorted overbiasing them? LEDs current I=Vbe/R. Check Q2 Q3 Vbe. Ideally around 0.62V in this circuit.
Oh Salas, you are so fast!

I deleted the post.

The image I posted showed Q2 and Q3 not fully soldered on the top of the board.

So I just powered down re-soldered on top of board, fired it up and it is working correctly, so far.

So is there a moron jail I can be put into? I shouldn't be allowed out for 3 days minimum.

You are the best caretaker of your designs, unbelievable!

Thank you so much.

Rush
 
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Determining R1, the guide says is first step. I am using these power supplies in my DCG3 which has been done by numerous members here.
Is there a definitive R1 value for this application? Scanning my notes in both the DCG3 thread as well as this one.

Similar question on quasimodo values for the 18+18 50VA antek transformers that are quite popular. I had a list of "known" transformers values
from Quasimodo, lost in old dead laptop. My DCG3 is the "standard" build, might try next notch up later.

Thanks in advance

Russellc
 
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I do not own headphones at this time. I was after a set of Audioquest Nighthawks when they went down to 300.00, but they dried up before I could.
I understand they didnt need much, so that is why I went with the "standard" setting. I figured I would leave it as is until I do get headphones, not at the top of the list right now. I can up it then, was my plan unless you have a better idea. right now, its just a line stage. A few of the AKG models mentioned here are interesting, and I also have looked at the Audeze, which after the Nighthawks, was my next point of interest, although, like most things are more $$$$.

Russellc
 
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In as much that "upping it later" will be a minor PIA, adjustment to both Pre board as well as the Ubib....I am building a second DCG3, I guess I can set up that board for more oats and then trade it into this one, or pin the parts that need changed, but that may be a point that needs soldered?

Russellc
 
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For now use 3.3 Ohm 1W metal film R1. Also good for headphones of not lower than 80 Ohm impedance. Very low impedance headphones I don't generally recommend anyway, because current hungry than voltage hungry is due to the proliferation of low rail portable devices. Studio headphones were originally high Ohms i.e. voltage hungry for less noise.
 
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A few of the AKG models mentioned here are interesting, and I also have looked at the Audeze, which after the Nighthawks, was my next point of interest, although, like most things are more $$$$.
Don't forget the Sennheiser HD660S as an option which is very well tonally thought out, also clean but not lean, and images well while midway priced.
 
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In as much that "upping it later" will be a minor PIA, adjustment to both Pre board as well as the Ubib....I am building a second DCG3, I guess I can set up that board for more oats and then trade it into this one, or pin the parts that need changed, but that may be a point that needs soldered?
Better solder the R1s on the top. Make a shallow job to can pull with bit of wick braid later. There are roomy plated through pads for various R1 sizes on the official board.
 
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