For those that have grabbed some boards (more available).
First off is the LOFI. *Solder transformer last ** All parts except transformer solder to top side with silkscreen. *** You may want to carefully cut leads of caps, cmc, resistors etc, on the side of the board the transformer will be on (non-silk screen side) to be near flush with the PCB.
Transformer: The Hammond 229. Available at Mouser , Digikey , Newark , eBay ,
CMC/DMC:
There's only 1. King of the small CMC/DMC, the Coilcraft P3717-A. These have been available on eBay as of late, which is an easier choice than Coilcrafts convoluted system of ordering/samples.
X2 Capacitors:
These are pretty easy to search for, here's a mouser part number for a nice X2 that is 15mm lead length x 10mm or less width, at 0.47uf: mouser R463I347050N0M
Resistors next to the CMC:
With the CMC they should be 3kohm 1/2w. They are right below the X2 capacitors, to the side of the CMC. I use Carbon Comp often because they can take a surge really well. For example mouser 791-RC1/2-302JB
Resistor Capacitor in top corner:
*If you're using the P3717 and 4x 0.47uf caps, try 220nF and 82R
This is for advanced tinker-able people. It's just an RC across the primaries. If it's a mystery to you, and you aren't using the defined values, don't worry about it.
DCS1 & DCS2: They use the same parts.
Rectifiers: Any TO-220 will fit, and you can use other little barrel style. They have markings. For example MUR860 are TO-220.
Capacitors: You'll need 20mm snap caps. I like the KG (LKG on mouser) from Nichicon. I'm sure you could solder some non-snap caps in if you tried. I just wouldn't bother with "famed" FC's etc. (mouser search, passive components > capacitors > aluminum electrolytic > snap cap). If you are at 25v, use 35v caps.
Discharge resistors: These are nice, to run the caps down so you don't get shocked in testing, or ruin something by hooking up hot caps to a transistor you will ruin. You'll notice them in the middle of the caps. They may have to mount with one end sticking up to fit, depending on what you use. 10kohm should work great, 1/4w or 1/2w.
The RC; Trimmer and Cap: These are for dampening the secondary coils. The Bournes 100ohm trimmer will work well. In general I'd start at 10ohm (you may want to set this first, instructions below). From there you can count turns and adjust to taste. A general size for a capacitor would be 1uf. Some people may wish to try smaller like 0.1uf. It's at your discretion. If you find combos you prefer, post them please. You can also skip these parts if you want.
Mouser:
652-3299W-1-101LF (trimmer)
80-R82EC4100Z370K (capacitor example, I like the way the little white ones look, you could use any flim cap really)
*To set trimmer value, touch one multimeter lead to 1 leg. Touch the multimeter lead to the other 2 legs. You can also solder it in first, and then touch a lead to each far leg.
**I recommend earing the RC for the primaries. I've read way too many hate posts about them. All the those posts were for calculated values. I simply listen by ear and settle when I have the best results that are superior to not using one. If I used the calculated value I may not like it, either. Dampening can have drawbacks, that is just the way it is... You can skip the RC all together if you want.
*** The RC trimmer values will probably vary if you only use half of the winding/s on a transformer. So if you are doing that, you may want to consider that someone else's optimal value may not be yours.
**** If you're mounting the DCS2 over the LOFI, you might want to solder on a wire to the DCS2 pcb before the capacitors.
First off is the LOFI. *Solder transformer last ** All parts except transformer solder to top side with silkscreen. *** You may want to carefully cut leads of caps, cmc, resistors etc, on the side of the board the transformer will be on (non-silk screen side) to be near flush with the PCB.
Transformer: The Hammond 229. Available at Mouser , Digikey , Newark , eBay ,
- 48va version only.
- Single Rail operation: Simply choose parallel or series, and don't use the center tap. AC voltage will be what is listed for transformer for series or parallel.
- + and - Rail operation: Choose a voltage listed that is double what you need, because the CT will act as your PG. When you choose to use it, it halves the rated voltage, with each half becoming the + and -. When you do this it will split the current between them as well. **This is what you'd use with the DCS2
- To find desired voltage after rectification the formula is VAC x 1.3 (1.3 is the effect of rectification). Do you want 10v? 10/1.3 = 8~, so a 229D16 will work in parallel mode.
- The AC in is labeled, but some people swap them to find which sounds best. If there is a consistent result from anyone here may re-label future ones.
- *** the 1 2 4 3 pin numbers go on the primary side (115/230v labeling).
CMC/DMC:
There's only 1. King of the small CMC/DMC, the Coilcraft P3717-A. These have been available on eBay as of late, which is an easier choice than Coilcrafts convoluted system of ordering/samples.
X2 Capacitors:
These are pretty easy to search for, here's a mouser part number for a nice X2 that is 15mm lead length x 10mm or less width, at 0.47uf: mouser R463I347050N0M
Resistors next to the CMC:
With the CMC they should be 3kohm 1/2w. They are right below the X2 capacitors, to the side of the CMC. I use Carbon Comp often because they can take a surge really well. For example mouser 791-RC1/2-302JB
Resistor Capacitor in top corner:
*If you're using the P3717 and 4x 0.47uf caps, try 220nF and 82R
This is for advanced tinker-able people. It's just an RC across the primaries. If it's a mystery to you, and you aren't using the defined values, don't worry about it.
DCS1 & DCS2: They use the same parts.
Rectifiers: Any TO-220 will fit, and you can use other little barrel style. They have markings. For example MUR860 are TO-220.
Capacitors: You'll need 20mm snap caps. I like the KG (LKG on mouser) from Nichicon. I'm sure you could solder some non-snap caps in if you tried. I just wouldn't bother with "famed" FC's etc. (mouser search, passive components > capacitors > aluminum electrolytic > snap cap). If you are at 25v, use 35v caps.
Discharge resistors: These are nice, to run the caps down so you don't get shocked in testing, or ruin something by hooking up hot caps to a transistor you will ruin. You'll notice them in the middle of the caps. They may have to mount with one end sticking up to fit, depending on what you use. 10kohm should work great, 1/4w or 1/2w.
The RC; Trimmer and Cap: These are for dampening the secondary coils. The Bournes 100ohm trimmer will work well. In general I'd start at 10ohm (you may want to set this first, instructions below). From there you can count turns and adjust to taste. A general size for a capacitor would be 1uf. Some people may wish to try smaller like 0.1uf. It's at your discretion. If you find combos you prefer, post them please. You can also skip these parts if you want.
Mouser:
652-3299W-1-101LF (trimmer)
80-R82EC4100Z370K (capacitor example, I like the way the little white ones look, you could use any flim cap really)
*To set trimmer value, touch one multimeter lead to 1 leg. Touch the multimeter lead to the other 2 legs. You can also solder it in first, and then touch a lead to each far leg.
**I recommend earing the RC for the primaries. I've read way too many hate posts about them. All the those posts were for calculated values. I simply listen by ear and settle when I have the best results that are superior to not using one. If I used the calculated value I may not like it, either. Dampening can have drawbacks, that is just the way it is... You can skip the RC all together if you want.
*** The RC trimmer values will probably vary if you only use half of the winding/s on a transformer. So if you are doing that, you may want to consider that someone else's optimal value may not be yours.
**** If you're mounting the DCS2 over the LOFI, you might want to solder on a wire to the DCS2 pcb before the capacitors.
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Proximity possible with DCS boards: Put a piece of electrical tape over the CMC between it and the capacitors. (2nd gen will naturally have more clearance)
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