Tremendous amounts of waveform asymmetry are beneficial if the "phase detector" is a human eyeball viewing an oscilloscope.
On the other hand, if the phase detector is electronic, and the if waveform period is much longer than the propagation delays and risetimes (as in the PhaseDots PCBoard), then a symmetric waveform is perfectly acceptable. Measure the duty cycle of the square waves being fed to Winding_1 of your PhaseDots PCB; it's within a percent of 50-50 and yet: Turkey Worky.
On the other hand, if the phase detector is electronic, and the if waveform period is much longer than the propagation delays and risetimes (as in the PhaseDots PCBoard), then a symmetric waveform is perfectly acceptable. Measure the duty cycle of the square waves being fed to Winding_1 of your PhaseDots PCB; it's within a percent of 50-50 and yet: Turkey Worky.
I just use a multimeter.
Depending on how know or unknown the transformer is, I use variations of the following.
Find the highest resistance winding. Probably the primary on most low voltage transformers.
Find all winding pairs, center tap windings etc
Connect all windings in series with the highest resistance winding at the bottom.
Connect a low voltage AC source to the first high resitance winding.
Connect one DMV lead to one end of the winding.
Connect the other DVM lead one at a time to all the other winding connections. If the reading goes up, windings are in phase, if it goes down out of phase.
Mark the windings.
Depending on how know or unknown the transformer is, I use variations of the following.
Find the highest resistance winding. Probably the primary on most low voltage transformers.
Find all winding pairs, center tap windings etc
Connect all windings in series with the highest resistance winding at the bottom.
Connect a low voltage AC source to the first high resitance winding.
Connect one DMV lead to one end of the winding.
Connect the other DVM lead one at a time to all the other winding connections. If the reading goes up, windings are in phase, if it goes down out of phase.
Mark the windings.
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Also, with Antek trafos, the windings seem to have a physical pair location (co-located near each other representing the same phase). You would think that all the secondariesare wound the same directional sense (LH vs RH). So the two that look like they are on the same end are probably the dot? I should test this hypothesis.
To reclaim some space in my storage cabinet, I kitted out and bagged up all remaining electronic components and PCBs of PhaseDots. After performing that joyful task, I am able to say that: as of this afternoon, I have, available for sale:
When they're gone, they're gone. (I will edit the banners in post #1). I won't be selling any more kits or blank boards, although you (yes You!) could send the Gerber CAD Files in post#1, to a PCB fab and get boards made. You could also order parts from the Bill Of Materials attached to post#1. You could even sell these, at a profit, if you wished. Not only could I not stop you, I would actively encourage you.
BTW today's PCB fabs are quoting less than $1 per board for PhaseDots PCB manufacturing including shipping to USA. Shipping to your country might even be cheaper; visit PCBShopper – A Price Comparison Site for Printed Circuit Boards to get an up-to-the-minute price quotation. Tell them: 2 layer board, 98mm x 48mm, min width = 12 mils, min clearance = 10 mils.
- Twelve (12) kits of all parts including PCB, and additionally
- Ten (10) blank PCBs
BTW today's PCB fabs are quoting less than $1 per board for PhaseDots PCB manufacturing including shipping to USA. Shipping to your country might even be cheaper; visit PCBShopper – A Price Comparison Site for Printed Circuit Boards to get an up-to-the-minute price quotation. Tell them: 2 layer board, 98mm x 48mm, min width = 12 mils, min clearance = 10 mils.
Hi Mark,
I would like 1X PCB + KIT sent to France, please. PM sent also. I was going to order some boards from Seeed but the postage brings it to $20 (and I only need 1 PCB).
Stephen
Post #1 of this thread says
To discuss payment using PayPal, send me a Private Message.
To discuss payment using PayPal, send me a Private Message.
I'm away from home at the moment but I'll have a look when I'm back. (Had to look dadgum up!)
Hi Mark,
Why not use an inductance meter to test the two loops in series compared with one loop only. If the inductance doubles then its within phase if inductance low/canceled, then it`s out of phase.
I have been using this method for years, anything wrong with it???
I will be happy to build the PhaseDots if it gives an advantage...
Why not use an inductance meter to test the two loops in series compared with one loop only. If the inductance doubles then its within phase if inductance low/canceled, then it`s out of phase.
I have been using this method for years, anything wrong with it???
I will be happy to build the PhaseDots if it gives an advantage...
A nice little kit was delivered by the post person today. I look forward to assembling and using Marks little kit.
Cheers,
And the Phasedot tester works. I've noticed that you can do it with three wires.
two on the primary and it will find evaluate the the polarity of the secondary. In this case a choke. yellows are positive.
Cheers,
And the Phasedot tester works. I've noticed that you can do it with three wires.
two on the primary and it will find evaluate the the polarity of the secondary. In this case a choke. yellows are positive.
Attachments
Yes Mark, The LEDs sometimes we get lucky and I had help. Imagine that.
Nice little kit and the suggestions in the thread were all good.
One thing I did when I clipped the LED leads to keep the gunk from
sticking to the holes when inserting, is to clip the Anode longer, that way
I wouldn't get mixed up.
The hardest part for me was finding my small soldering tip and thin
solder. I've got 10+ lbs of .050, .062 in 63/37 and 62/36/02 (ag) for big eyelet
and through hole tube gear. I did find a little spool of 62/36/02 in .025,
would have preferred 63/37 as the board neither had noble metals
nor silver wires.
It's all good.
Cheers,
Nice little kit and the suggestions in the thread were all good.
One thing I did when I clipped the LED leads to keep the gunk from
sticking to the holes when inserting, is to clip the Anode longer, that way
I wouldn't get mixed up.
The hardest part for me was finding my small soldering tip and thin
solder. I've got 10+ lbs of .050, .062 in 63/37 and 62/36/02 (ag) for big eyelet
and through hole tube gear. I did find a little spool of 62/36/02 in .025,
would have preferred 63/37 as the board neither had noble metals
nor silver wires.
It's all good.
Cheers,
I just sold and shipped the last two PhaseDots kits in my stockroom. After seven years (!). Post#1 of the thread has been edited, to say: SOLD OUT .
Fortunately the Gerber CAD files are still freely downloadable (attachment to post #1), and anybody can send them off to a PCB fab to have boards built and shipped straight to your home, anywhere in the world. The price comparison website
www.pcbshopper.com
will show you prices and shipping options (different delays, different costs). I've used and can recommend JLCPCB, Elecrow, and OSH Park. Get some quotes and find one whose total_money, total_waiting_time fits your needs best.
Fortunately the Gerber CAD files are still freely downloadable (attachment to post #1), and anybody can send them off to a PCB fab to have boards built and shipped straight to your home, anywhere in the world. The price comparison website
www.pcbshopper.com
will show you prices and shipping options (different delays, different costs). I've used and can recommend JLCPCB, Elecrow, and OSH Park. Get some quotes and find one whose total_money, total_waiting_time fits your needs best.