Don't!
If the U bolt is conductive and if it is electrically connected to the chassis (which I assumed is metal) it will result in a shorted turn. If you can guarantee insulation of the U bolt from the chassis it will work but will not be a sound design since these locations can be difficult to insulate permanently.
I've always used an L bracket for vertical mounting.
Matt
If the U bolt is conductive and if it is electrically connected to the chassis (which I assumed is metal) it will result in a shorted turn. If you can guarantee insulation of the U bolt from the chassis it will work but will not be a sound design since these locations can be difficult to insulate permanently.
I've always used an L bracket for vertical mounting.
Matt
Sorry, I sell them.. I'm a dealer. Apex Jr.Home Page
Contact me with your address and I'll send you a pair at NO COST
Steve
Contact me with your address and I'll send you a pair at NO COST
Steve
Hi,
Isn't your L bracket metal, too? I assume you still bolt the transformer to the bracket, don't you? And the bracket is bolted or screwed to the case?
Thanks.
Hi,
I went to your web site and didn't see these. Could you provide a link directly to these items?
Thanks.
Steve,
Could you please post what the distance is between the center hole and the bottom plate? That will give us an idea of how big a toroid it can hold.
Toroidal transformers still mystify me. I believe it has something to do with putting what is essentially a solid metal ring around the transformer, as opposed to a mounting bolt through the middle. I seem to remember reading that fully enclosing the toroid in metal does the same thing, but then I've also seen jacketed toroids for sale.
I'm going with the L-bracket method but I'm interesting in hearing the theory behind this.
there are rubber disks on either sides of the traffo so bolting is no problem...
yes go ahead and do it....
remember also that rubber under is merely for mechanical protection, even without it, the bolt is still insulated due to the fact that the clamp on the other side does not touch the chassis...
the idea here is that the bolt must never form a complete electrical circuit so that the resulting shorted turn ensures trouble....
i see ApexJr has some nice vertical mounting hardware, mine is made from 2mm thick aluminum plate so formed....
remember also that rubber under is merely for mechanical protection, even without it, the bolt is still insulated due to the fact that the clamp on the other side does not touch the chassis...
the idea here is that the bolt must never form a complete electrical circuit so that the resulting shorted turn ensures trouble....
i see ApexJr has some nice vertical mounting hardware, mine is made from 2mm thick aluminum plate so formed....
I used "nailplates" or whatever they are called in english, used for nailing wooden beams together when you erect a house frame.
To explain I add a link to a swedish/finnish supplier for general hardware
Vinkelbeslag - Biltema
Price is in euros. This is in turn is 90*90mm and 3 mm thick. Zinc anodized and provided with enough holes to fit anything anywhere...
Should be readily available in any well stocked hardware store?
To explain I add a link to a swedish/finnish supplier for general hardware
Vinkelbeslag - Biltema
Price is in euros. This is in turn is 90*90mm and 3 mm thick. Zinc anodized and provided with enough holes to fit anything anywhere...
Should be readily available in any well stocked hardware store?
No you can't. the U-bolt would form a conductive loop with the chassis (assuming that the chassis is metal and they are not insulated from each other). Wrapping the transformer does nothing.
The reason why the plates work is becasue the bolt only goes through the centre and does not continue around the out side to form a continuous loop. The rubber is there to protect the insulation on the transformer from being abraded when it is clamped.
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