Go Back   Home > Forums > > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Planet 10 hifi Home of the Frugal-phile™ - Planet 10 HiFi

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th April 2019, 03:44 PM   #11
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tulsa, OK
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcgab View Post
Cheery veneer could look really nice. I'm a big fan of danish oil, well applied and rubbed between coats it can look fantastic. I like to finish with a little Howards orange oil and beeswax finish, satin with a bit of depth.

I definitely like depth. Do you recommend any particular kind of veneer for that effect? I've never used it before, so I'd be starting from scratch here.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th April 2019, 04:46 PM   #12
chrisb is offline chrisb
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
There are a variety of species that can exhibit depth of grain when sliced into veneers, cherry and maple of the more common domestics certainly among them. It’s the finish that’ll make the grain figuring pop.
__________________
Technology honors no Hippocratic oath
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th April 2019, 03:59 AM   #13
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tulsa, OK
Thanks, Chris. What would you recommend for finishing cherry veneer?
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th April 2019, 05:50 AM   #14
chrisb is offline chrisb
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Lots of choices there, but I was always partial to sprayed post catalyzed nitrocellulose lacquers or conversion varnishes - such as ML Campbell Krystal. Of course that's a result of working in a commercial cabinet shop for 25yrs, and proper application requires a "few dollars" invested in spraying equipment. Oils such as Watco are easier to apply, but I didn't find yielded the same depth or life on highly figured grains such as Quilted or Bird's Eye Maple, Cherry, Walnut or Ribbon Grain Sapele.

I was never a fan of the one step gel stain/polyurethane finishes - they just never looked organic.
__________________
Technology honors no Hippocratic oath
  Reply With Quote
Old 10th April 2019, 01:29 PM   #15
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Marcos, Texas
mFonken103SolT Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
I was never a fan of the one step gel stain/polyurethane finishes - they just never looked organic.
Completely agree!

Chris' comments about lacquer are spot on, IMO.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th April 2019, 03:27 AM   #16
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tulsa, OK
Interesting. Thanks for the insight re: spray lacquers. Never even heard of conversion varnishes before!

Today I cut the driver recess in the braces and glued the skeletons. Figured it would be best to start with the front baffle, brace, and bottom, since everything else gets attached to those.

Then I did a dry fit to make sure everything lines up. There's about three inches of minor damage on the top rear edge of one of the side wall sandwiches, the side that glues to the back panel. The interior meets the back panel fine, but I could use advice on a product and best practices to fill what will likely be a ~1mm gap at that spot.

Curiosity got the better of me and I grabbed a piece of scrap and tried staining it with coffee. I like the results. It seems there are two ways that people tend to make coffee stain: (1) brew a strong batch of coffee (or instant coffee) and simply apply that to sanded wood, or (2) mix about 1/4 cup of used coffee grounds with 1-2 cups of vinegar, toss in some steel wool, and let it all brew overnight before applying. The first method tends to result in a light thin stain, while the latter flows on darker and more concentrated. In my mind's eye I saw this as light and thin, so what you see in the pics is the result of five coats of normal strength Trader Joe's French Roast.

The left side is treated with pre-stain (I know, don't mix oil and water), while the other was untreated (the sides are reversed in the pic with the driver). There's little perceptible difference except that the treated side shows the stress lines more and exhibits slightly more contrast over the coverage area. I like the even tone of the untreated side. It doesn't have depth like an oil finish, but I like the modern look and it goes well with the copper bezel and creamy cone of the FE103Sol.

The test piece currently has two coats of polyurethane that's curing in the garage. That turned it a slightly darker amber, and I don't think I'll like it. My instinct is to try the coffee stain with an eggshell or even matte clear coat that won't affect the color. Any products to recommend for that?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4250.jpg (336.6 KB, 97 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4255.jpg (355.0 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4237.jpg (412.1 KB, 97 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4279.jpg (210.5 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4276.jpg (247.6 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4270.jpg (355.8 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4271.jpg (279.5 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4268.jpg (428.5 KB, 23 views)

Last edited by jdrouin; 11th April 2019 at 03:30 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th April 2019, 11:44 PM   #17
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: San Marcos, Texas
mFonken103SolT Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrouin View Post
There's about three inches of minor damage on the top rear edge of one of the side wall sandwiches, the side that glues to the back panel. The interior meets the back panel fine, but I could use advice on a product and best practices to fill what will likely be a ~1mm gap at that spot.
I can't quite visualize where this is, maybe snap a pic of it.

Depending on where it is, and how wide/long, You might try Bondo or similar. It's very hard and adheres well to wood.
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th April 2019, 11:55 PM   #18
chrisb is offline chrisb
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Mohawk makes a pretty nice line of finishing products, including aerosol sealers, toners and pre-cat NC lacquers . I’ve used the M102-0412 several times on small projects - one or two spray bombs might be all ya need.
Mohawk | Pre Catalyzed Clears M102-0410

Yes, bondo is a perfectly fine approach to repair defects, but doesn’t lend itself to natural or even stained finish. I used more than a few gallons of in my time, but only when covered with veneer or plastic laminate. Could certainly be painted over as well, but a really decent paint job can take much longer and cost more than veneer - OK, let’s be honest, I just got lazy / comfortable with the latter.

As for conversion varnishes- the ones that I used were industrial grade, high solids post catalyzed (two part) product, not generally available to the “retail” public. They’re not inexpensive, require careful mixing, and have relatively short pot-life - but when properly applied, make for a very durable finish.
__________________
Technology honors no Hippocratic oath

Last edited by chrisb; 12th April 2019 at 12:05 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th April 2019, 12:41 AM   #19
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Tulsa, OK
OK, thanks for the info and the link, Chris. That Mohawk product looks like a cost-effective option.

I just checked the test piece from yesterday. It looks better than I thought. Again, this is five coats of regular strength French roast coffee applied with a foam brush, with two coats of Minwax satin polyurethane. Doesn't have the depth or pearlescence of oil, wax, etc, but I like the color. I'd like to look for an eggshell or matte clear coat to try with this.

If I go with the coffee stain, I'd still probably need to veneer it with birch, as the vision in my imagination does not incorporate all the end grain at the chamfer. I'd have to cut hardwood faces for the vent spacers and sand flush with the veneer, if I want to go for that look. Seems like a lot of fuss to veneer something with the same construction material, just to make it look a little different.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4292.jpg (657.1 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4295.jpg (821.7 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4298.jpg (413.0 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4303.jpg (829.7 KB, 15 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th April 2019, 01:10 AM   #20
chrisb is offline chrisb
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
A quartet of FE 127E mFonken
Cherry with dark port stain
Book matched flat sliced walnut -natural
same walnut with dark brown stain
Cherry - natural

In all cases the clear top coat would be at least 3 coats of satin sheen (40 dg) NC lacquer, and the second from left and far right are as close to natural color of the Fostex cones as you’ll get with over 10yrs difference.

Click the image to open in full size.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg 199DA3DC-B849-47ED-A61E-03DC955E7D67.jpeg (17.3 KB, 17 views)
__________________
Technology honors no Hippocratic oath

Last edited by chrisb; 12th April 2019 at 01:14 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


mFonken103SolT BuildHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Transmission Line Speaker Build using Alpair 7.3 speakers, first build. vishalk Full Range 123 29th March 2017 01:22 AM
Super Squirrel Monkey - First from-scratch tube amp build, first guitar amp build ericj Instruments and Amps 32 5th April 2016 11:28 PM
question:How to build How to build music player with tda1543 use rapspberry pi B+? gary095315 Digital Source 1 30th December 2015 08:35 AM
build my first full ranger,let's build another one:a small fullrange high end pc-spea then_dude Full Range 2 30th November 2005 08:54 AM
Do i need to build main supply (240v) filter?Or build power distribution? thomgun_lc Chip Amps 9 16th September 2005 10:52 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:26 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 14.29%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2019 diyAudio
Wiki