- why not build a second pair of enclosures to allow for instant A/B
It's a thought, though it'll be some time before I can get down to doing it.
Would like to give the MA 5.2's a try too...... if and when I can get my hands on them!
If in response to my post re 5.2s being "at top of my list " , that would be drivers to try in the FHL after the FF85WK . A direct comparison between the two in that enclosure is something I've yet to hear -so l'll keep my suppositions to myself - other than to say that both have their strengths
Since we are building all the FH-Lite flatpaks with vestigual supraBaffles i got Chris to whip up some baffles for a couple pair of older 3" we have kicking around.
The 1st was the TB W3-786se. These are serial #1&2 and i don't know if any more even exist. They sound quite good, perhaps need for a tad more damping upfront. They go off for treatment now.
Pictures & more info on the driver here from 2002: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/8054-tale-two-tangbands.html
Next up, from the '60s, a set of Foster FE83A extracted from a Noresco FAST.
dave
The 1st was the TB W3-786se. These are serial #1&2 and i don't know if any more even exist. They sound quite good, perhaps need for a tad more damping upfront. They go off for treatment now.
Pictures & more info on the driver here from 2002: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/8054-tale-two-tangbands.html
Next up, from the '60s, a set of Foster FE83A extracted from a Noresco FAST.
dave
Hi everyone,
If this has been addressed before please bear with me.
About the slightly back tilting angle of the front face of the FH Lite, while it does look good, does it serve an acoustic purpose? and what about the curves in the back?
I am asking because right angles and straight lines are easier to work with.
Thanks!
If this has been addressed before please bear with me.
About the slightly back tilting angle of the front face of the FH Lite, while it does look good, does it serve an acoustic purpose? and what about the curves in the back?
I am asking because right angles and straight lines are easier to work with.
Thanks!
This talks about the curved back: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/291186-some-questions-about-frugel-horn-design.html
The 5° tilt-back is to aim the driver up a bit as the box is fairly short. It is not necessary.
dave
The 5° tilt-back is to aim the driver up a bit as the box is fairly short. It is not necessary.
dave
this is what happens when you get busy with life...
I've been kind of ignoring diyaudio for a while as I've been busy of late with life (I'm a new grandpa!), and have been concentrating on further refinements to the nanook 219 tonearm...so please excuse me if I am so late to this thread.
Recently my wife's sister got married to a great guy. At the wedding I met all of his family, and one fellow in particular I struck up a good "audio" conversation with. Turns out he is a retired electrical engineer who suggested that audio applications have a basis in engineering and art...(perhaps the first time I have ever heard any engineer of any type suggest that). His area of specialty was/is telecommunications, and he's willing to accept that for the purposes of audio, he may not be the one to ask to design a particular piece of equipment.
As it turns out, apparently my enthusiasm for audio rubbed off on him and he is looking at putting together a small but nice little system based on an iMac mini-DAC-tube amplifier-speakers. I've put in a personal email to Dave, but thought I'd pose the question here as well.
What have been the experiences of those using the FH Lites with tubes and if so, what tubes seem to be best suited? Besides the "Lites", he may also consider the the standard FH design. I'd say he listens to a very good mix of almost all musical types (sorry Country and Western music...). If not tubes a Nelson Pass design? A JLH design?
For an amp I am seeking something that can be had as a kit or scratch built that can be done for CAD $500-$600 or so, with a potentiometer and a single or dual inputs. I figure 5 Watts/ch (or less) might be suitable to listen at 90 dB in his listening space. Any suggestions are appreciated.
And thanks to Dave et al (you too Chris ) for your continued contributions to the diy community here and elsewhere. Maybe I'll even try a pair of FHXLs for the Hemp FR8s. (I've added the Dayton ribbon tweeters in a horizontal orientation and a series cap to very good effect to the Demetris, they sound pretty amazing....)
And to the point perhaps Dave and /or Chris might explain the basic characteristics of the FH types vs. the dMar-Ken primes?(I'm very familiar with the 'primes stuffed with the CHR70 drivers)
I've been kind of ignoring diyaudio for a while as I've been busy of late with life (I'm a new grandpa!), and have been concentrating on further refinements to the nanook 219 tonearm...so please excuse me if I am so late to this thread.
Recently my wife's sister got married to a great guy. At the wedding I met all of his family, and one fellow in particular I struck up a good "audio" conversation with. Turns out he is a retired electrical engineer who suggested that audio applications have a basis in engineering and art...(perhaps the first time I have ever heard any engineer of any type suggest that). His area of specialty was/is telecommunications, and he's willing to accept that for the purposes of audio, he may not be the one to ask to design a particular piece of equipment.
As it turns out, apparently my enthusiasm for audio rubbed off on him and he is looking at putting together a small but nice little system based on an iMac mini-DAC-tube amplifier-speakers. I've put in a personal email to Dave, but thought I'd pose the question here as well.
What have been the experiences of those using the FH Lites with tubes and if so, what tubes seem to be best suited? Besides the "Lites", he may also consider the the standard FH design. I'd say he listens to a very good mix of almost all musical types (sorry Country and Western music...). If not tubes a Nelson Pass design? A JLH design?
For an amp I am seeking something that can be had as a kit or scratch built that can be done for CAD $500-$600 or so, with a potentiometer and a single or dual inputs. I figure 5 Watts/ch (or less) might be suitable to listen at 90 dB in his listening space. Any suggestions are appreciated.
And thanks to Dave et al (you too Chris
) for your continued contributions to the diy community here and elsewhere. Maybe I'll even try a pair of FHXLs for the Hemp FR8s. (I've added the Dayton ribbon tweeters in a horizontal orientation and a series cap to very good effect to the Demetris, they sound pretty amazing....)And to the point perhaps Dave and /or Chris might explain the basic characteristics of the FH types vs. the dMar-Ken primes?(I'm very familiar with the 'primes stuffed with the CHR70 drivers)
Amp Camp Amp Kit – diyAudio Store
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Good luck making that fit
dave
Stew - the ACA is a delicious little amp - it shouldn't be too much problem to build the kit in your own chassis and add volume and input selector.
Best few hundred dollars I've spent on audio gear recently.
Agree with Dave that the XL would be a very tight fit - quite possibly a dedicated MLTL could yield best results with the Hemps.
Best few hundred dollars I've spent on audio gear recently.
Agree with Dave that the XL would be a very tight fit - quite possibly a dedicated MLTL could yield best results with the Hemps.
hi chris...thanks for the input (both you and dave)
It's up to my new relation (by way of marriage). Trying to help him get back into audio. He's a retire electrical engineer, just can't be bothered with doing any design work now. It's really unto him to decide on an amp. I suggested Frugalhorns for loudspeakers (8' x 8' room opening into a larger space). Mostly near field listening. Not too much large scale orchestral works.
Regarding the Hemps, they're currently in the Demetri enclosures. I've added the PE ribbon tweeters (thanks Moray) with a cap in series to limit the possibility of damage. Trying my old Nelson Pass design Nakamichi SR-2A "STASIS receiver with them. Best match for them yet. More extended frequency extremes compared to the Assemblage amp/preamp now in my front room.
So this new relation is looking for a good amp( class A, say 5-10 Watts/ch); a pair of loudspeakers (I think he likes the idea of the Frugalhorns) and a DAC. He'd prefer "kits", but can do point to point wiring and is willing to. He uses a Mac mini and a MacBook for a source.
I think he'll shy away from the 3" Frugalhorn "Lites"....and go with the standard Frugalhorns as dave suggested. Sorry for taking up the space (an off topic too)
It's up to my new relation (by way of marriage). Trying to help him get back into audio. He's a retire electrical engineer, just can't be bothered with doing any design work now. It's really unto him to decide on an amp. I suggested Frugalhorns for loudspeakers (8' x 8' room opening into a larger space). Mostly near field listening. Not too much large scale orchestral works.
Regarding the Hemps, they're currently in the Demetri enclosures. I've added the PE ribbon tweeters (thanks Moray) with a cap in series to limit the possibility of damage. Trying my old Nelson Pass design Nakamichi SR-2A "STASIS receiver with them. Best match for them yet. More extended frequency extremes compared to the Assemblage amp/preamp now in my front room.
So this new relation is looking for a good amp( class A, say 5-10 Watts/ch); a pair of loudspeakers (I think he likes the idea of the Frugalhorns) and a DAC. He'd prefer "kits", but can do point to point wiring and is willing to. He uses a Mac mini and a MacBook for a source.
I think he'll shy away from the 3" Frugalhorn "Lites"....and go with the standard Frugalhorns as dave suggested. Sorry for taking up the space (an off topic too)
Help!
I finally received my Alpair 5.2 drivers. They’re real beauties. Unlike the Fostex drivers with which you get sheets of information in the boxes, the Alpair box did not contain even a single information leaflet. These are my first Mark Audio drivers so I’m in unfamiliar territory.
Here’s what I’d like to know –
1) The box had four gold-plated tabs and two each of red and blue plastic sleeves. What do I have to with these?
2) How is the self-adhesive gasket attached? Sticker side to the inside of driver bezel or to the baffle?
3) Do I have to follow the same break-in procedure as with other Mark Audio drivers?
4) What will be a good starting point weight-wise for the front damping in the FLHs (once I complete the mandatory break-in hours)?
Can anyone help me out please?
I finally received my Alpair 5.2 drivers. They’re real beauties. Unlike the Fostex drivers with which you get sheets of information in the boxes, the Alpair box did not contain even a single information leaflet. These are my first Mark Audio drivers so I’m in unfamiliar territory.
Here’s what I’d like to know –
1) The box had four gold-plated tabs and two each of red and blue plastic sleeves. What do I have to with these?
2) How is the self-adhesive gasket attached? Sticker side to the inside of driver bezel or to the baffle?
3) Do I have to follow the same break-in procedure as with other Mark Audio drivers?
4) What will be a good starting point weight-wise for the front damping in the FLHs (once I complete the mandatory break-in hours)?
Can anyone help me out please?
I put them in a little box and leave them there. These are the slide on terminal connectors particularily for those that use too thick a wire (we suggest 24g solid core wire)
Stick it to the driver.
Yes
FLH? Do you mean Frugel-Horn Lite (FHL)? Start with about 10g.
dave