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Old 9th June 2015, 09:19 AM   #11
nickds1 is offline nickds1  England
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Thanks Dave - I really appreciate the work that has been done to make these plans available.

Last question (!) if I may: To recess the driver I'm making a routing template for a 1/4" router to make the 2mm recess and using captive nuts on the inside,

There are three distinct operations on the driver mount - the 71/73mm cutout, the 45 degree bevel and the 2mm recess to make the driver flush.

Is there a recommended or suggested order for these?

Thanks again
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Old 9th June 2015, 06:15 PM   #12
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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ufonken build assembly suggestions
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickds1 View Post
Is there a recommended or suggested order for these?
Not a question for me Ö i am not allowed to build anymore (except an occasional flat-oak). Chris & Bernie do that.

dave
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Old 9th June 2015, 06:29 PM   #13
sippy is offline sippy  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickds1 View Post

There are three distinct operations on the driver mount - the 71/73mm cutout, the 45 degree bevel and the 2mm recess to make the driver flush.

Is there a recommended or suggested order for these?
If using a circle jig, cut driver rebate first, then driver cut-out, then flip piece and cut bevel.
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Old 9th June 2015, 07:30 PM   #14
chrisb is offline chrisb
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If you're not lucky enough to have access to a CNC, sippy's approach makes most sense.

Make sure to allow a slight tolerance for "loose fit" on the rebate - I use about .5mm diameter - too deadly tight a fit can make rotating driver for alignment with mounting screw holes, or removing the driver for whatever reason very difficult.

I really like the supplied screws - AFAIC they're as secure as any of the types of captive nuts I've encountered so far, particularly for smaller drivers with narrow flange margins. Follow Mark's recommendation of pre-drilling and"tapping" the screws before installing, and don't over-torque the mounting screws.
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Old 9th June 2015, 07:32 PM   #15
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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ufonken build assembly suggestions
Chris,

uFonken -- we are talking about FF85wk

dave
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Old 9th June 2015, 08:09 PM   #16
chrisb is offline chrisb
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oops - I must have Alpair on the brain - but I hear there's a pill for that

While it's become somewhat of a signature of our builds for aesthetics, and easy to achieve once you have the CNC programs written, I suspect that the trouble to rebate thin / tapered flange drivers such as most of the Fostex FE and FF series, the Mark Audio CHN70, and likely numerous TB drivers for flush mounting is likely not audible or measurable.

Thicker framed drivers with very wide dispersion, tweeters, etc, a different story methinks.
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Old 10th June 2015, 04:35 AM   #17
sippy is offline sippy  United Kingdom
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oops - I must have Alpair on the brain - but I hear there's a pill for that
Spots are the give-away
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Old 10th June 2015, 04:38 AM   #18
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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FF85 can have spots too…

Click the image to open in full size.

Bernie built a set of uFonken for his youngest daughter with these out of the solid mahogany i recovered from a bookcase my parents had that i made in shopin Grade 9 (ie 46 years ago)

dave
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Old 10th June 2015, 05:27 AM   #19
nickds1 is offline nickds1  England
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Thanks for the input - I'm rebating as much for aesthetic reasons as acoustic ones - am using allen cap-bolts for retention. The rebates and ports will be matt-black and the cases veneered using Decoflex in maple or walnut.

I don't have CNC so will make up some templates that sit tightly over the front panel to ease repeatability as I suspect that once the offspring see the results they too will want a set.

Also, my plan is to make a WiFi set of these for the kitchen - not sure of the approach yet (early days) but I'm an EE so technically it shouldn't be too hard.
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Old 16th June 2015, 11:13 AM   #20
nickds1 is offline nickds1  England
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This is all going well - and will be finished in a few days.

Little question - how deep a rebate to cut in the front panel for the driver?

I've tried 2mm but that just isn't enough to make it touch the brace...

What do you recommend - using a deeper rebate or some thin packing foam stuck to the brace (or driver)?

Cheers!
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