Good morning HiFis, may I present my plasma loudspeakers here to you? For the amateur handicraftsman somewhat progressed the reproduction might prepare hardly problems. The beginner should only read it. Rel. simple circuit, not expensively, without smell, loud, beautifully. Living room-suited, sense-extending. Not more dangerously than a hair dryer.
Made in Germany.
Dire Straits
Without input
Enough for Living-Rooms
Never heard better.
Best regards
George
Made in Germany.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Dire Straits
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Without input
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Enough for Living-Rooms
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Never heard better.
Best regards
George
Hello Friends,
this circuit shows the main-part of this thing.
The tube is a PL519, also works others with more then 15 Watts.
The PL519 is easy to get an has a power of 35 Watts, for a short time I think it is possible to get up to 100Watts or more.
Then the tube begins to glow, thus I limit the time for the possible overloading to approx. 5 seconds.
But with this work I am not yet completely finished. It functions already like also the automatic ignition, but I would not like to show incomplete or wrong plans. Therefore only in each case excerpts of the work at which I straight are or which is correctly finished.
If someone should nevertheless be interested in it, to that not yet finished things, I can show gladly the incomplete plans with explanations.
The tweeters to work at me nearly 18 hours on day without problems
This picture shows the entrance wiring up to the opto coupler. This is responsible for the galvanic separation.
The separation frequency amounts to approx. 7000 cycles per second
But relying you asks not completely on these values, but it functions in such a way.
This circuit steers roars at the screen grid on
the inverse feedback of the screen grid is not yet drawn in to the basis of Q1, that is no longer well audibly, which must is measured, I rigs straight only.
Alles zu seiner Zeit.
Best regards,
George
this circuit shows the main-part of this thing.
The tube is a PL519, also works others with more then 15 Watts.
The PL519 is easy to get an has a power of 35 Watts, for a short time I think it is possible to get up to 100Watts or more.
Then the tube begins to glow, thus I limit the time for the possible overloading to approx. 5 seconds.
But with this work I am not yet completely finished. It functions already like also the automatic ignition, but I would not like to show incomplete or wrong plans. Therefore only in each case excerpts of the work at which I straight are or which is correctly finished.
If someone should nevertheless be interested in it, to that not yet finished things, I can show gladly the incomplete plans with explanations.
The tweeters to work at me nearly 18 hours on day without problems
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This picture shows the entrance wiring up to the opto coupler. This is responsible for the galvanic separation.
The separation frequency amounts to approx. 7000 cycles per second
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But relying you asks not completely on these values, but it functions in such a way.
This circuit steers roars at the screen grid on
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
the inverse feedback of the screen grid is not yet drawn in to the basis of Q1, that is no longer well audibly, which must is measured, I rigs straight only.
Alles zu seiner Zeit.
Best regards,
George
Hi George,
I have great interest in Plasma tweeter but because I'm "electronically challanged" and low SPL of These tweeters, I restrain myself from building one.
Your spark look a lot longer and fatter then other tweeters which I'd found in the net. Soo SEXY!!! Love it!!! Could you guide me along the way to build one?
Questions on the oscilator.
For clarification,
1) The top coil is 21-turn, internal dia. 1.4-cm of coil, total 5-cm total coil length, wire size is dia.1.2mm (i.e. coil spacing is ~1mm),
2) The bottom coil is 3-turn, but is it the same gauge wire (1.2-mm dia.)? what is the coil dimension?
3) can't figure out the "hot" section, Would you kindly show me the Mat'l/size you use for the spark tips? A sketch would be most appriciated.
Other questions,
Are all the values critical? especially the RF choke filter?
Are you having 2 sparks? It looks like it in the "dire strait" clips, it that how you achieve 110db sound level?
Cheers
Ken
I have great interest in Plasma tweeter but because I'm "electronically challanged" and low SPL of These tweeters, I restrain myself from building one.
Your spark look a lot longer and fatter then other tweeters which I'd found in the net. Soo SEXY!!! Love it!!! Could you guide me along the way to build one?
Questions on the oscilator.
For clarification,
1) The top coil is 21-turn, internal dia. 1.4-cm of coil, total 5-cm total coil length, wire size is dia.1.2mm (i.e. coil spacing is ~1mm),
2) The bottom coil is 3-turn, but is it the same gauge wire (1.2-mm dia.)? what is the coil dimension?
3) can't figure out the "hot" section, Would you kindly show me the Mat'l/size you use for the spark tips? A sketch would be most appriciated.
Other questions,
Are all the values critical? especially the RF choke filter?
Are you having 2 sparks? It looks like it in the "dire strait" clips, it that how you achieve 110db sound level?
Cheers
Ken
Hello of friends,
here place I mean automatic ignition forwards. One ignites with a high voltage spark from an old HV-Transf. of the S/W-TV comes. If the SG-river is high enough ignites a thyristor, against an unintentional ignition with high achievement comes still another photodiode direction flame, i.e. if the flame is there, the ignition is switched off. To the spark one does not see because the flame burns immediately. Flat follows wenn´s is finished.
This picture is more than six Months ago, but still it works.
@Audio_idiot, this work is here that You do this.
There are no Problems,
you must be able to work on only one spark plug or look for help for this.
................ Straight ones a while ago I played someone “Time” from Pink Floyd, such a face expression must I photograph, become me an automatic camera for it to insert, the people sit finally always on the same armchair, mine, give surely best photos. Many greetings, George
that is the for the time being next to last and still incomplete connection diagram. One ignites me a spark from (still) a HV-Transf. from B/W equipment. The spark from a photo flash appartus is enough because of the necessary Distance to the point, do not ignite however can he also. That can be done automatically, only this corner is not yet finished, but functions very well and already years long. In former times I have a “antenna” into close of the coil had, so 3cm long, afterwards a diode and a that has the Thy over a transistor headed for and the spark was measures there, now I by the resistance of 10R at the collector from the BUT the voltage drop and switch thereby the ignition. A photodiode at the end of a glass fiber of approx. 5cm length determines whether the flame burns. I stated however that by the kind of the feedback like I have her conditions somewhat changing now in favor of the achievement and over-regulation firmness. Therefore this circuit is only provisional and should therefore not yet absolute in SMD technology to be implemented. Three resistances of the SG (3/6)of the PL to the basis from the BF still are with me by one Trim potentiometer said by 1M replaced, as, finished is the circuit not yet. But like that as it, with the trim potentiometer runs it is and the half night all day long now there. And stink does also nothing. The G2 tension amounts to about 115 V, better said for instance 35mA river flows. 310 V of anode voltage directly over a throttle on the anode. I do not use any Transf. for the anode voltage. But the opto coupler and the two condensers at the anode and at the lattice ensure for security, therefore one should pay attention in these places to best quality, is not not expensive. But over security I may not give obligatory pieces of advice, anyhow not over those straight construction units used by me. If on a condenser “VDE” paint on so is still for a long time no warranty for the fact that in the case of two-skin burns not nevertheless. In evenly these places one should insert condensers like it also the radio amateurs use, the more HV-the safe side. With me 2kV is enough today and already ever ago until. Thus I did not have ever an estimate or a short circuited. The housing is complete made of metal and shielded and is grounded, green yellow. The power switch is to ignite a triac in zero crossover, up to now still does it without. Please understands that I for the connection diagram no warranty to give can, but I have still a few marks checked up. The resistance before the opto coupler has approx. 1,2k adjust at the best one with a trimmer to a quiescent current of for instance 9-10mA. The backplate electrode is not completely important, without runs anything. And the distance the point of the Keramikplate, only if comes that is correct property correctly! The condenser is not easily built only the spark plug divides is like that without. Those you need however for it or you invent something else, an old safety device tut´s also. Is as close only the large and I wants ran as possible to the plate.
This ist a Google-translation, I hope that it is correct.
Best Regards,
George
here place I mean automatic ignition forwards. One ignites with a high voltage spark from an old HV-Transf. of the S/W-TV comes. If the SG-river is high enough ignites a thyristor, against an unintentional ignition with high achievement comes still another photodiode direction flame, i.e. if the flame is there, the ignition is switched off. To the spark one does not see because the flame burns immediately. Flat follows wenn´s is finished.
This picture is more than six Months ago, but still it works.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
@Audio_idiot, this work is here that You do this.
There are no Problems,
you must be able to work on only one spark plug or look for help for this.
................ Straight ones a while ago I played someone “Time” from Pink Floyd, such a face expression must I photograph, become me an automatic camera for it to insert, the people sit finally always on the same armchair, mine, give surely best photos. Many greetings, George
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
that is the for the time being next to last and still incomplete connection diagram. One ignites me a spark from (still) a HV-Transf. from B/W equipment. The spark from a photo flash appartus is enough because of the necessary Distance to the point, do not ignite however can he also. That can be done automatically, only this corner is not yet finished, but functions very well and already years long. In former times I have a “antenna” into close of the coil had, so 3cm long, afterwards a diode and a that has the Thy over a transistor headed for and the spark was measures there, now I by the resistance of 10R at the collector from the BUT the voltage drop and switch thereby the ignition. A photodiode at the end of a glass fiber of approx. 5cm length determines whether the flame burns. I stated however that by the kind of the feedback like I have her conditions somewhat changing now in favor of the achievement and over-regulation firmness. Therefore this circuit is only provisional and should therefore not yet absolute in SMD technology to be implemented. Three resistances of the SG (3/6)of the PL to the basis from the BF still are with me by one Trim potentiometer said by 1M replaced, as, finished is the circuit not yet. But like that as it, with the trim potentiometer runs it is and the half night all day long now there. And stink does also nothing. The G2 tension amounts to about 115 V, better said for instance 35mA river flows. 310 V of anode voltage directly over a throttle on the anode. I do not use any Transf. for the anode voltage. But the opto coupler and the two condensers at the anode and at the lattice ensure for security, therefore one should pay attention in these places to best quality, is not not expensive. But over security I may not give obligatory pieces of advice, anyhow not over those straight construction units used by me. If on a condenser “VDE” paint on so is still for a long time no warranty for the fact that in the case of two-skin burns not nevertheless. In evenly these places one should insert condensers like it also the radio amateurs use, the more HV-the safe side. With me 2kV is enough today and already ever ago until. Thus I did not have ever an estimate or a short circuited. The housing is complete made of metal and shielded and is grounded, green yellow. The power switch is to ignite a triac in zero crossover, up to now still does it without. Please understands that I for the connection diagram no warranty to give can, but I have still a few marks checked up. The resistance before the opto coupler has approx. 1,2k adjust at the best one with a trimmer to a quiescent current of for instance 9-10mA. The backplate electrode is not completely important, without runs anything. And the distance the point of the Keramikplate, only if comes that is correct property correctly! The condenser is not easily built only the spark plug divides is like that without. Those you need however for it or you invent something else, an old safety device tut´s also. Is as close only the large and I wants ran as possible to the plate.
This ist a Google-translation, I hope that it is correct.
Best Regards,
George
Hugo thanks! Hello Ken, 110db? 117,6 last week had. A problem is for it to be over solved there! The upper coil is 19 turn, diameter is not critically, 1.4 centimeter of 2.5 cm if enough place, silver 1.2 mm. 5 cm lengthens. under reel is for decimetric waves filters. works also without. Point of spark is tungsten of 3,2 millimeters on piece of iron welded, backplate electrode silver because of oxidation. little critical parameters, only ignition with high voltage and condenser for feedback should be made in such a way like here. And naturally the acoustic baffle, the reflector, that is a slot emitter! from a tile with a spark plug in it. RF choke filter? do you mean the 100µ 1A? without nothing goes. Greeting, George
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Silver burns together with tungsten, without music, 2A load
15 sec. later
Questions?
Thanks,
George
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
15 sec. later
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Questions?
Thanks,
George
Hello,
this is my second one, the left side one, this one is measured with 117.6db,
the ignition is not to see cause it´s too fast for the camera.
This is the elder version without spark-plug, there is an old Hosehold-Fuse
sawed with an diamond-blade, also the diamond for the spark-plug.
The only danger if You get hurt by doing this work is to work without glasses and gloves!
The spark tip is made of two pieces, the tungsten tip and the iron nail on which is welded,
this item is about 2 cm long and easy to service, only once a month two times scrach
a little emery paper to do away the oxydation products. The tip will not burn away,
the first I made are still working about 7 jears.
Have a good time,
George
this is my second one, the left side one, this one is measured with 117.6db,
the ignition is not to see cause it´s too fast for the camera.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the elder version without spark-plug, there is an old Hosehold-Fuse
sawed with an diamond-blade, also the diamond for the spark-plug.
The only danger if You get hurt by doing this work is to work without glasses and gloves!
The spark tip is made of two pieces, the tungsten tip and the iron nail on which is welded,
this item is about 2 cm long and easy to service, only once a month two times scrach
a little emery paper to do away the oxydation products. The tip will not burn away,
the first I made are still working about 7 jears.
Have a good time,
George
This sequence of the ignition is made july 2003,
it works automatic by measuring the HF-power, but sometimes it starts
suddenly by a loud signal, this is no further problem.
Tis pic is made 2005, but the tweeter works til 2001 and the tip will still work if it needs no other design.
The other one with the ignition was at this times my test-object.
My friend is a carpenter and the wodden-case is made of him, I may not scratch the polished shellac.
/George
it works automatic by measuring the HF-power, but sometimes it starts
suddenly by a loud signal, this is no further problem.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Tis pic is made 2005, but the tweeter works til 2001 and the tip will still work if it needs no other design.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The other one with the ignition was at this times my test-object.
My friend is a carpenter and the wodden-case is made of him, I may not scratch the polished shellac.
/George
that am smaller I
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi George,
Thank for sharing your work. and your kind explaination.
The pix and clips are excellent. Makes my blood boil! (no pun intended
)
I am still trying to understand your posts, Google translation like to rearrange the phrases. Making it difficult to understand...
Your use of modified spark plugs as the "hot" section is a wonderfully brillient improvise! Everything is there!! and trouble free too!!!
And the auto start and starting device is cool.
Question
1) What is the function of Cx and how to adjust? can we just use a variable air gap capacitor used in radio tuning for Cx?
2) In your 117db set, did you meant you brazed the tungsten to the iron nail instead of welding? If brazed, will the plasma melt the joint?
The material used,
1) Must we use silver wire? and why?
2) Can we use copper or other metal to brace to the spark plug instead of tungsten?
3) the tungsten is lathe cutting tool bit?
Thousand Thanks
Ken
Thank for sharing your work. and your kind explaination.
The pix and clips are excellent. Makes my blood boil! (no pun intended
)I am still trying to understand your posts, Google translation like to rearrange the phrases. Making it difficult to understand...
Your use of modified spark plugs as the "hot" section is a wonderfully brillient improvise! Everything is there!! and trouble free too!!!
And the auto start and starting device is cool.
Question
1) What is the function of Cx and how to adjust? can we just use a variable air gap capacitor used in radio tuning for Cx?
2) In your 117db set, did you meant you brazed the tungsten to the iron nail instead of welding? If brazed, will the plasma melt the joint?
The material used,
1) Must we use silver wire? and why?
2) Can we use copper or other metal to brace to the spark plug instead of tungsten?
3) the tungsten is lathe cutting tool bit?
Thousand Thanks
Ken
Hi Ken,
thanks for your praise for the pictures, photograph makes for me large joy.
Your questions:
1.) the CX makes the feedback, together with the backplate electrode, since both is attached to the lattice of the tube. A variable air gap capacitor is not useful because the disk distance is much too small. My condenser consists of two sheet metals screwed on and firmly pressed are. Plumb bob melts place at these. Is very simple to manufacture. The adjustment is also seh simple, as in the pictures to see is, which has CX approx. 2cm ² surface and approx. 3mm disk distance. The distance of the point too the backplate electrode amounts to approx. 10-12 mm. Also which I not particularly critically, only with to large was not away will equivalent loud with all tones, becomes then also the inverse feedback adjusted by the G2, is simply, real.
2.) The point is from tungsten, 3.2mm diameter, an electrical welding electrode from the fitter, you must only make certain that you buy new, who has old a little radioactivity and that is unhealthy. Of it I cut approx. 6mm off and on a nail welded, that is, because one saws the nail down and thus a plug has that knows is replaceable, tungsten is not not flexible. To melts and broken there nothing goes.
3.) silver line brings more achievement to ca,10%.
4.) Copper cannot one use because it burns and oxidizes and comes then bad clay/tone. Tungsten is stable.
A small drop copper burns approx. 1 hour and more, it �lights out�, remaining
somewhat grey cinder those musik then disturbs.
Therefore no copper electrodes.
I hope that I you up to success to help can.
If my english is not enough I will write in german and You
look for the translation, but I think it work also now.
I would like to deal once briefly with the current supply.
That turns out needs 280-320 V of anode voltage with high river.
I have a bridge rectifier and a 250µF condensers.
A transformer for the heating 40Volt 600mA.
A transformer 2x15Volt 20mA for the music primarily.
I do not use an anode transformer!
I show of it no connection diagram because it with us in D the regulations very expensive.
Before I you a power pack in addition draw still very long time will thus last.
310Volt anode, 40Volt heating, 2x15Volt, nevertheless everyone made.
I start the power pack with a TRIAC because the starting current the small power switches glue.
If it a transformer want to use so one … - 230Volt, 2A!
Straight ones do not run with me the old “Moody Blues” as ever belonged.
Many greetings,
George
thanks for your praise for the pictures, photograph makes for me large joy.
Your questions:
1.) the CX makes the feedback, together with the backplate electrode, since both is attached to the lattice of the tube. A variable air gap capacitor is not useful because the disk distance is much too small. My condenser consists of two sheet metals screwed on and firmly pressed are. Plumb bob melts place at these. Is very simple to manufacture. The adjustment is also seh simple, as in the pictures to see is, which has CX approx. 2cm ² surface and approx. 3mm disk distance. The distance of the point too the backplate electrode amounts to approx. 10-12 mm. Also which I not particularly critically, only with to large was not away will equivalent loud with all tones, becomes then also the inverse feedback adjusted by the G2, is simply, real.
2.) The point is from tungsten, 3.2mm diameter, an electrical welding electrode from the fitter, you must only make certain that you buy new, who has old a little radioactivity and that is unhealthy. Of it I cut approx. 6mm off and on a nail welded, that is, because one saws the nail down and thus a plug has that knows is replaceable, tungsten is not not flexible. To melts and broken there nothing goes.
3.) silver line brings more achievement to ca,10%.
4.) Copper cannot one use because it burns and oxidizes and comes then bad clay/tone. Tungsten is stable.
A small drop copper burns approx. 1 hour and more, it �lights out�, remaining
somewhat grey cinder those musik then disturbs.
Therefore no copper electrodes.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I hope that I you up to success to help can.
If my english is not enough I will write in german and You
look for the translation, but I think it work also now.
I would like to deal once briefly with the current supply.
That turns out needs 280-320 V of anode voltage with high river.
I have a bridge rectifier and a 250µF condensers.
A transformer for the heating 40Volt 600mA.
A transformer 2x15Volt 20mA for the music primarily.
I do not use an anode transformer!
I show of it no connection diagram because it with us in D the regulations very expensive.
Before I you a power pack in addition draw still very long time will thus last.
310Volt anode, 40Volt heating, 2x15Volt, nevertheless everyone made.
I start the power pack with a TRIAC because the starting current the small power switches glue.
If it a transformer want to use so one … - 230Volt, 2A!
Straight ones do not run with me the old “Moody Blues” as ever belonged.
Many greetings,
George
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
please do not forget thereby that it around to music-hear goes, therefore the whole work!
Hi,
Took some time to study your latest posts.
Question on the Oscillator,
1) How does the curved plate work? and what material?
2) What is the input audio signal requirements? e.g. Maximum & minimum Peak to peak voltage?
3) Any difference in performance between "welded tungsten iron electrode" and "pressed tungsten iron electrode"?
For now, I am trying to source some tungsten electrode from local hardware stores in my nearest town... not as common as in Germany.
Cheers
Ken
Took some time to study your latest posts.
Question on the Oscillator,
1) How does the curved plate work? and what material?
2) What is the input audio signal requirements? e.g. Maximum & minimum Peak to peak voltage?
3) Any difference in performance between "welded tungsten iron electrode" and "pressed tungsten iron electrode"?
For now, I am trying to source some tungsten electrode from local hardware stores in my nearest town... not as common as in Germany.
Cheers
Ken
Hi, Ken
1) How does the curved plate work? and what material?
Do You mean this plate on the backside of the Reflector? This ist the Condensator Cx, made of iron
and welded or pressed a cable in. Only two pieces of 2-3 cm² iron-plate, 0.5mm, and ca. 6mm away.
This part is necessarily and becomes very hot, together with the backplate electrode it makes the feedback.
To attitude: first make sure that the flame burns ca. 1cm high, then hear to it an vary the capacity
until it is the quietest and the highest. You can hear this if You have some "Sparks" in Your
current supply, otherwise give some quiet musik to him.
2) What is the input audio signal requirements? e.g. Maximum & minimum Peak to peak voltage?
The input is closed directly to the amplifier exit, thus to the existing loudspeaker. one can share also
for the advantage the existing frequency switch for the tweeter .
Minimum is CD-Output ca. 100mV,
maximum up to now 200Watt .
> 3) Any difference in performance between "welded tungsten iron electrode" and "pressed tungsten iron electrode"? <
Yes, there is some oxydation products after a few month between the tungsten and the iron in the pressed places.
I think that the power will become less therefor. This is because the glowing tungsten works like a catalyst
and there ist some new, light-green product on. This yo can scratch awy every three months.
You can also use iron for Your tries, 4mm nail will work surely long time enough.
Only You have the more the scratch.
Greetings,
George
1) How does the curved plate work? and what material?
Do You mean this plate on the backside of the Reflector? This ist the Condensator Cx, made of iron
and welded or pressed a cable in. Only two pieces of 2-3 cm² iron-plate, 0.5mm, and ca. 6mm away.
This part is necessarily and becomes very hot, together with the backplate electrode it makes the feedback.
To attitude: first make sure that the flame burns ca. 1cm high, then hear to it an vary the capacity
until it is the quietest and the highest. You can hear this if You have some "Sparks" in Your
current supply, otherwise give some quiet musik to him.
2) What is the input audio signal requirements? e.g. Maximum & minimum Peak to peak voltage?
The input is closed directly to the amplifier exit, thus to the existing loudspeaker. one can share also
for the advantage the existing frequency switch for the tweeter .
Minimum is CD-Output ca. 100mV,
maximum up to now 200Watt .
> 3) Any difference in performance between "welded tungsten iron electrode" and "pressed tungsten iron electrode"? <
Yes, there is some oxydation products after a few month between the tungsten and the iron in the pressed places.
I think that the power will become less therefor. This is because the glowing tungsten works like a catalyst
and there ist some new, light-green product on. This yo can scratch awy every three months.
You can also use iron for Your tries, 4mm nail will work surely long time enough.
Only You have the more the scratch.
Greetings,
George
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