Dust covers don’t affect low frequency’s and their effects come into play at higher frequency’s with increased mass or thickness and the reason for ultra thin mylar here.
If one panel is going bad there is a good chance more will follow. You need to break down all panels for inspection. Fixing one only to go back in there again for another one will raise your blood pressure and drive you to drink..,
A pain with all Quads of this era unfortunately
Regards
David
If one panel is going bad there is a good chance more will follow. You need to break down all panels for inspection. Fixing one only to go back in there again for another one will raise your blood pressure and drive you to drink..,
A pain with all Quads of this era unfortunately
Regards
David
AVWERK is right for speakers that have not been previously worked on. I'm rebuilding a pair of 2805's that all the stator glue has become brittle and the stators easily pull away from the support structure. The owner drove them hard and then they started having a problem.
However after a complete rebuild of all the panels, the speakers will be good for many years. I have a pair of 63's that I rebuilt 12 years ago that are going strong.
Sheldon
However after a complete rebuild of all the panels, the speakers will be good for many years. I have a pair of 63's that I rebuilt 12 years ago that are going strong.
Sheldon
I have put the grilles and side strips back on, so to save me undoing it all, can the lower bass panel be removed without dismantling the whole frame? I plan to ring OTA today and suggest sending them the panel for repair. Driving there and back twice would entail about 1000 miles of driving (and fuel costs!), and buying a box from Quad and shipping a whole speaker would also be expensive.
After nearly 50 years of building speakers and amps, I should be able to manage removing and re-installing a panel. I could possibly rebuild a panel myself, with help from the good people here, but why should I?
EDIT: I just looked at Clog's post from June on how to dismantle 2805s. Hopefully that answers my question.
After nearly 50 years of building speakers and amps, I should be able to manage removing and re-installing a panel. I could possibly rebuild a panel myself, with help from the good people here, but why should I?
EDIT: I just looked at Clog's post from June on how to dismantle 2805s. Hopefully that answers my question.
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The way I remove the lowest panel is as follows; highly abbreviated:
remove top strip and rear support rod
remove metal side panels
remove front and rear grilles
remove dust covers
unsolder all wires to lower two panels
remove second up from the bottom panel, then remove the bottom panel
remove top strip and rear support rod
remove metal side panels
remove front and rear grilles
remove dust covers
unsolder all wires to lower two panels
remove second up from the bottom panel, then remove the bottom panel
Thanks Sheldon. So removing the panel above makes it easier. Good to know. Domestic life has been getting in the way, but I plan to phone OTA later, or in the morning, and try to move this forward.
Reading about power supply problems (capacitor) and clamp operation, I will have a look at the flickering neon too. I wondered what that was when I had the grilles off before. But I didn't take much notice of its speed of operation. I will compare the two speakers and see if there is much variation between them. Once these are working properly (please!) I will look at replacing under specced components.
Reading about power supply problems (capacitor) and clamp operation, I will have a look at the flickering neon too. I wondered what that was when I had the grilles off before. But I didn't take much notice of its speed of operation. I will compare the two speakers and see if there is much variation between them. Once these are working properly (please!) I will look at replacing under specced components.
Update. I just spoke to Steve at OTA, and he says they are under warranty, so just post the bass panel to them, and it will be a priority job. Hopefully I will have it back in about a week. I will sort out the dust cover and missing screws myself.
Now, where did I see that design for a ripole sub?
Now, where did I see that design for a ripole sub?
Frankly, I prefer the sound of my open-air Dayton-Wright DIY panels better than the stock unit which houses the cells in a gas filled box which has a somewhat heavy tensioned mylar seal front and back.
Or maybe the fact that I built these panels in 1977 and house fall-out has made the sound better in 42 years? DW cells have much bigger spacing, I vacuum (and heat treat) the calls maybe once year, and keep 'em covered with a thin synthetic paisley fabric.
B.
Or maybe the fact that I built these panels in 1977 and house fall-out has made the sound better in 42 years? DW cells have much bigger spacing, I vacuum (and heat treat) the calls maybe once year, and keep 'em covered with a thin synthetic paisley fabric.
B.
Panel back and installed. Cover removed again to solder in the connecting wire I had left over! It all seems OK, even the non fitting dust cover has been squeezed into submission.
I have nearly finished a couple of absorbent panels to stand behind them, and the Seismic bars are well on their way too. I will mock-up a pair of Ripole sized boxes out of cardboard to see if they will fit. And if my wife notices them!
But I fear the Parasound A21 isn't the ideal power amp for them. Oh well.
And thanks for all the advice, I may need more in the future!
It all seems OK, even the non fitting dust cover has been squeezed into submission.I have nearly finished a couple of absorbent panels to stand behind them, and the Seismic bars are well on their way too. I will mock-up a pair of Ripole sized boxes out of cardboard to see if they will fit. And if my wife notices them!
But I fear the Parasound A21 isn't the ideal power amp for them. Oh well.
And thanks for all the advice, I may need more in the future!
Much debate about dipole ambiance out there in web world.
Some (including me) have posted their experience on attenuating the rear wave from ESLs. One might ask why preserve the rear wave when the panel is designed for front radiation?
I made 4 x 4 foot 2 inch fibreglass board panels. That's lots of absorbing.
Seems the consensus is that rear absorption is harmful to sound quality except maybe for little tweeters where damping is the goal.
So.... might be best to set up your system so you can do a good A-B test. And report back what you conclude.
B.
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