Magnepan 2.7QR xover

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I wonder if someone could help
I have built a crossover( by others ) with newer and beefier parts from Jantzen and would like to bypass the jumper etc
Is it possible ? Can one bypass the fuse ? Do you have a simple schematics I could copy to do so in comparison to the original
Your help is greatly appreciated
Many thanks
Andre
 
thanks tyu , theres no mention of bypassing or indeed schematics for bypassing the 2.7 back plate
i already have the schematics , i just can work out the bypass , as the back plate is a bit strange
does anybody knows the consequences of removing the fuse ? verastarr does a kit to replace the fuse with a silver bus bar of sort but just wanted to know what you guys think
 
There use to be a lot of push-on connectors. Soldering is often better. Bypassing the fuses can be made in different ways. Best is to re-route the wiring and solder. Easiest is to solder a piece wire on the back of the fuse holders. It is waste of money to buy Verastarr's wires for the attenuator links when you can do it better yourself. On most Magnepan, you can un-screw the lugs and place them under the same nut.
 
I have no pictures of the 2.7 connector plates. Here is a picture of the connector plate of the 3.6, from both sides. Most Magnepan are similar.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.




In order to bypass the attenuator, just unscrew the two terminals that belongs to the attenuator on the back. Move the two ring terminals to the same post and tighten it. Even better is to solder one end to the fuse holder terminal (in this case the red cable to the lower terminal of the fuse holder).

The fuse holder can be a cause of distorsion too. You can solder a fuse right across the holder. Like this one: http://semicondevices.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/ceramic-fuse-leaded.jpg Make sure it has the right properties!
 
slightly at loss !
I want to star wire from a cardas binding post into 3 separate pcb ( mid bass tweeter )
is that possible ?
in the schematics it shows that only the bass is out of phase
but the gentleman who mounted the Jantzen into the pcb , has marked the tweeter out of phase too and when I emailed him he stated that its correct
I would post a picture but don't know how
thanks in advance
 
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