Find another theoretical problem...
The distance between the pins is actually high because there is a top/high level voltage there.
And my capacitors legs that connected over the air made the distance shorter by half.
Though about: put some hot glue, hit shrink tube or silicone between the elements, to avoid arcs.
do silicon is ok for isulation?
The distance between the pins is actually high because there is a top/high level voltage there.
And my capacitors legs that connected over the air made the distance shorter by half.
Though about: put some hot glue, hit shrink tube or silicone between the elements, to avoid arcs.
do silicon is ok for isulation?
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Found this type of fuse before tweeters,
in parallel to this fuse connected 50ohm
What do you think about trying this method?
Still have this cheap types, (the coil is: with core 4.0mH and without 1.0mH) =D
60W Speakers 2 Way Audio Frequency Divider Loudspeaker 2 Unit Crossover Filters | eBay
Some crossover boards using real glass fuse
really forgot about the crossover methods.
Can some one help me please.
Which fuse to use on this board phase (+)
the (-) will get 2.2ohm 10W additional capacitor.
in parallel to this fuse connected 50ohm
What do you think about trying this method?
Still have this cheap types, (the coil is: with core 4.0mH and without 1.0mH) =D
60W Speakers 2 Way Audio Frequency Divider Loudspeaker 2 Unit Crossover Filters | eBay
Some crossover boards using real glass fuse
really forgot about the crossover methods.
Can some one help me please.
Which fuse to use on this board phase (+)
the (-) will get 2.2ohm 10W additional capacitor.
Lost my camera memory card 
so only phone photos
and copy past the second side.
matched capacitors/resistors choose, replace the solder with Cardars
recoate EHT
Spent must of the dielectric spray (that for the panels I found it useless)
on the transformer
re soldered and still not finish, need to mess with EHT and put some fuse one the phase.
I will use only my required voltage (240v) and isolate the rest
I plan to use 30mA fuse on the entering level. if it will blow then I will use 1A
so only phone photos
and copy past the second side.
matched capacitors/resistors choose, replace the solder with Cardars
recoate EHT
Spent must of the dielectric spray (that for the panels I found it useless)
on the transformer
re soldered and still not finish, need to mess with EHT and put some fuse one the phase.
I will use only my required voltage (240v) and isolate the rest
I plan to use 30mA fuse on the entering level. if it will blow then I will use 1A
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I subscribed to your topic!
If I might suggest, you should buy a pair of panels those salvaged from a working speaker, maybe this one.
This seller usually put up some QUAD panels and parts for sale for reasonable price. If you are lucky (as I were) you can score some undamaged treble panels from OTA for dirt cheap.
If I might suggest, you should buy a pair of panels those salvaged from a working speaker, maybe this one.
This seller usually put up some QUAD panels and parts for sale for reasonable price. If you are lucky (as I were) you can score some undamaged treble panels from OTA for dirt cheap.
thank you all!
Still wait for the materials.
decide to put the protecting board outside, drill and clean the copper parts
Plan to buy new balts, at this point I cleaned the mount and the bolts
the front cover cracked on the begining points, have to find some way to glue it before all of it will damaged
wood is sliced everywhere
every part is full of dust
front cover having some stain
one leg is cracked, and bad glued
washed and started to glue it with quality wood-glue
Still wait for the materials.
decide to put the protecting board outside, drill and clean the copper parts
Plan to buy new balts, at this point I cleaned the mount and the bolts
the front cover cracked on the begining points, have to find some way to glue it before all of it will damaged
wood is sliced everywhere
every part is full of dust
front cover having some stain
one leg is cracked, and bad glued
washed and started to glue it with quality wood-glue
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Now they are metric too
*I actually made a mistake
My skills and accurate and really low
I always planned to order "inches" tool for renewing bolts and nuts, but not done it yet.
I having some question to you about the treble panels.
do you sold some ready panels ? and can ship them?
Cause from you'r site description I though that you only fix them (sorry, my language no so good).
another question: about the EHT transformer,
I decide to use only the first and last cables (after insulated the rest 3)
I checked when it still first pluged original.
am I right, the first+last cable is 240v ?
logically and from first checking it is,
(the rest should be from the black/0 wire is 100v 110v 220v)
but still after I made soo much not accurate things, I have to ask for additional opinion.
I actually plan to replace the lamp and connect it directly to 240v/ voltage input and not to 110v on the transformer (somehow it looks unreasonable that they did so)
thanks.
Now they are metric too
I having some question to you about the treble panels.
do you sold some ready panels ? and can ship them?
Cause from you'r site description I though that you only fix them (sorry, my language no so good).
I don't have any spare panels at the moment. My supplies of panels have been dwindling these days, and I haven't purchased any in a while. I'm doing about 10 to 1 new quad rebuilds vs old ones. I I could find a set of donor treble panels I'd gladly sell them to you.
another question: about the EHT transformer,
I decide to use only the first and last cables (after insulated the rest 3)
I checked when it still first pluged original.
There has been several transformers over the years, The early ones were just taps off of one winding, the later ones with the smaller voltage selector based on a tube socket and rotating shorting plug are a little different I believe.
am I right, the first+last cable is 240v ?
logically and from first checking it is,
(the rest should be from the black/0 wire is 100v 110v 220v)
but still after I made soo much not accurate things, I have to ask for additional opinion.
I can't really tell for sure from your picture, but the DC resistance of the primary when hooked up for 240V is about 260 ohms.
I actually plan to replace the lamp and connect it directly to 240v/ voltage input and not to 110v on the transformer (somehow it looks unreasonable that they did so)
By tying the lamp to the 110v tap, they can be assured of driving the lamp from the same voltage no matter what line voltage the power supply is set for.
Sheldon
thanks!
at this moment trying to finish with wood restoring.
gonna buy new wood screws too (or will clean the old one)
after glue and sanding and second time rewashed and reglued again where needed
they looked like that
all the parts covered first coat with tung oil
second time the frame colored with black cheap spray and the rest with tung oil again
remind myself, not over-try and not do it too much good.
even as used I still could use them.
*the first black look looks like more expensive and quality, but I can't restore it any better or keep it as is.
at this moment trying to finish with wood restoring.
gonna buy new wood screws too (or will clean the old one)
after glue and sanding and second time rewashed and reglued again where needed
they looked like that
all the parts covered first coat with tung oil
second time the frame colored with black cheap spray and the rest with tung oil again
remind myself, not over-try and not do it too much good.
even as used I still could use them.
*the first black look looks like more expensive and quality, but I can't restore it any better or keep it as is.
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Can someone explain me is this capacitor will fit?
MKP1U012203F00JSSD WIMA | Mouser
for example here:
10pcs - WIMA MKP10 2200P ( 2200pF 2.2nF) 2000V 5% pitch:10mm Capacitor | eBay
It actually 2000v (2 in series = 4000v) but only for DC!
although I soldered them, I think that they will have some issue to hold on.
What do you think?
MKP1U012203F00JSSD WIMA | Mouser
for example here:
10pcs - WIMA MKP10 2200P ( 2200pF 2.2nF) 2000V 5% pitch:10mm Capacitor | eBay
It actually 2000v (2 in series = 4000v) but only for DC!
although I soldered them, I think that they will have some issue to hold on.
What do you think?
I first time hearing about this fact!
DC for capacitor set by is the voltage pick that it can rectified (the AC->Voltage)
Sound wave is obviously AC.
I really wanted to use Wima capacitors for this speakers (EHT+Crossover), unfortunately there is not enough place for Wima MKP10 in EHT so I plan to use this one (Metallized Polypropylene)
CBB Metallized Polypropylene Capacitors 2000V 2kV 102J 103J 104J 474J 105J etc. | eBay
DC for capacitor set by is the voltage pick that it can rectified (the AC->Voltage)
Sound wave is obviously AC.
I really wanted to use Wima capacitors for this speakers (EHT+Crossover), unfortunately there is not enough place for Wima MKP10 in EHT so I plan to use this one (Metallized Polypropylene)
CBB Metallized Polypropylene Capacitors 2000V 2kV 102J 103J 104J 474J 105J etc. | eBay
I'd seriously consider not messing with the caps in the EHT blocks. It takes many minutes to charge a panel, and you can unplug a Quad and listen for many minutes before the response drops noticeably. So if the power supply is turned off, and you are still listening, how much do the parts in that supply really matter?
Sheldon
Sheldon
about EHT:
You 100% right!
the charge is temporary thing.
consider the fact that this capacitors having -+20% of mistake (from factory):
It means: 8nF-12nF
in other words: this capacitors having enormous charge speed (not meter the mistake percent )!!!
I only hope that they function good, I will test them for the functionality and try to keep them.
thanks.
about the crossover/energizer/audio board:
I found information about this wima resistor, that even 2 in series can offer:
4000v DC
but only 1500v AC (750v per each)
I active this transformer in the past but with broken treble panels.
and its ok (dont know about the quality)
I really don't know if take the risk and leave them as is.
after I will done all installment I will run one speaker far away from me for 12 hours to see if it stable.
I accidentally broke the original one.
The other option, is to order the regular one 560pF with 20%
I think to order this one:
564R60GAT56 Vishay / Cera-Mite | Mouser Israel
I will order 16-20pcs and choose only 6pcs (3pcs for each speaker) that I will find matching.
As I promised... I broke 4 capacitors
??
blue/ red diodes and one big
Only red top 8 diodes
Some one mess up with this board and solder some other diodes
Tried to be accurate and end with even more mess...
(I guess that the vax is not original)
Some marks for me
good capacitor, -20% mistake, but still very good!
don't know who tried to restore this thing before the age of the internet, but I really appreciate his effort.
I can learn a lots of things because of it,
but its making my restoring processing too hard
(Yes there is the text JAN 1976)
??
blue/ red diodes and one big
Only red top 8 diodes
Some one mess up with this board and solder some other diodes
Tried to be accurate and end with even more mess...
(I guess that the vax is not original)
Some marks for me
good capacitor, -20% mistake, but still very good!
don't know who tried to restore this thing before the age of the internet, but I really appreciate his effort.
I can learn a lots of things because of it,
but its making my restoring processing too hard
(Yes there is the text JAN 1976)
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Here's a suggestion for the future: You are trying to rebuild your treble panels (they are such basket cases that I'd start with something else), don't change everything else around them at the same time. Work on one aspect of the speakers at a time. As it stands, you've changed everything and when you get it back together if it doesn't work where do you start looking for the problem?
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