What's the Best Way To Mount an Exciter?

Hello,

I've been experimenting with the Dayton Audio DAEX30HESF-4 exciter, and attaching it to the shiny side of erasable whiteboard. This results in spectacular sound through most of the audio spectrum. Highs in particular are amazing. However, in the bass, there is so much energy being released that the double stick tape cannot hold the exciter firmly enough against the board, and I get buzzing. The question is, how can I more firmly attach the exciter to the board? Should I try to attach it using the provided four mounting holes? And if so, how exactly do I do that? Or should I use a stronger adhesive? Or both? I welcome all suggestions!

 
It could have some effect but its not desirable. The amount of force used with the screws to tighten the exciter to the panel will hinder voice coil vibrations as the voice coil can only take very little pressure pushing against it before it hinders the sound.

I use 2 part 5min. Epoxy glue and I never had a problem with buzzing from bass notes.

If after you use the epoxy glue and you still hear a buzzing its probably due to the exciter not being mounted in place. At higher (bass) excursions what you are hearing is actually the magnet part of the exciter rattling and making a buzzing sound because its not securely mounted in place which is what the four screw holes is actually intended for.
 
Epoxy is used to mount the exciters voice coil to the panel material...…...the 4 screw holes on the exciter is used to mount the exciter itself to a wall,brace,spline etc basically like mounting a conventional cone driver on a hard wood surface to keep it in place.
 
Epoxy is used to mount the exciters voice coil to the panel material...…...the 4 screw holes on the exciter is used to mount the exciter itself to a wall,brace,spline etc basically like mounting a conventional cone driver on a hard wood surface to keep it in place.

Won't that type of epoxy 'eat' styrofoam? I think I'm going to try insulation hanger pins attached through the mounting holes in the exciter and see if they degrade the sound any. Also, when describing exciters that have extended mounting tabs, Dayton's 'Audio Exciters Buyers Guide' states: "EXTENDED MOUNT exciters are designed for projects featuring a larger mounting surface or a need for robust mounting due to power handling. Often leveraged in home projects such as doors, drop ceilings, large windows or decks, these exciters provide an extended frame or stabilizing legs for added contact between the exciter and the surface." To me, this suggests they are intended to be screwed directly to the soundboard material.
 
I have never had a problem with the Devcon brand of 5min. 2 part epoxy eat the Styrofoam.

These so called extended mount exciters use what is called "LEGS", for extra support. These legs are used for a totally different purpose then the 4 mounting holes that come with certain types of exciters. This should already tell you that they are used for a different purpose or else they would of made ALL the exciters with legs instead of making certain ones with mounting holes.

I would disregard what Dayton buyers guide says about extended mount exciters. Believe it or not these so called legs actually hinder vibrations as only the voice coil should be in contact with said material. I recommend removing the legs, you can do this easily with any decent type of scissors.
 
I have never had a problem with the Devcon brand of 5min. 2 part epoxy eat the Styrofoam.

These so called extended mount exciters use what is called "LEGS", for extra support. These legs are used for a totally different purpose then the 4 mounting holes that come with certain types of exciters. This should already tell you that they are used for a different purpose or else they would of made ALL the exciters with legs instead of making certain ones with mounting holes.

I would disregard what Dayton buyers guide says about extended mount exciters. Believe it or not these so called legs actually hinder vibrations as only the voice coil should be in contact with said material. I recommend removing the legs, you can do this easily with any decent type of scissors.

Hi
Is it possible that you make a small drawing with how one can mount the 4 holes correctly while attaching the voice coil to the surface with a glue ?

I just want to make sure i get this right.
 
Most don't realize the importance of actually mounting the whole exciter itself to a solid object to secure it in place so that the magnet part does not move.

You can read up more on P.E. tech talk on the DIY Flat panel speaker love thread.

You can get good performance without mounting the exciter to a solid object because the mass of the exciter provides inertia to work against. You can’t get to 0 Hz, but you can get to reasonably low frequencies.
 
For future generations, I tried to fix Dayton Audio exciter to a panel with screws through the 4 screw holes and quickly realized that they are not supposed to be used like that. General output was low and there was no bass at all. The screws rattled when not tight and after tightening the output was even lower. Also the screw need many nuts for them to be firmly in place. The nuts will follow gravity when the exciter shakes. When you think how conventional speaker element is mounted on a cabinet, you realize that the voice coil and membrane are not tightly locked to frame, they will need to be free. It's the same thing with these exciters.

Dayton has released new versions of these exciters with a mounting piece that you can fix to the memberance with screws and then screw it on to the voice coil of the exciter. Anyone considering exciters should evaluate those, that looks like a very useful mounting piece.
 
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